John Deere 4020

fixt · Sep 23, 2018

I finally found one I can afford, and from the add the only issues are cosmetic that I can see. The guy wants 5k for it.

He says all hydraulics, power steering, lift, and clutch work like they are supposed to.

I don't know the year, synchro or power shift or if its a console model or not.

There's a lot I don't know, so maybe some of you guys can tell me what to look for and what to avoid.

I appreciate the help.

I'm in the hospital right now with pneumonia so I can't travel to look at it until I'm discharged, probably end of this week.

Bob · Sep 23, 2018

They are all good tractors, if you found a late model "console" unit at that price, it would be a STEAL.

You might start by getting the serial number to find out what it actually is.

When you get there, (for starters) check transmission and hydraulic operation, listen for unusual noises, look at coolant and oil.

Also, look at sleeve "weep holes" in the block (if it has 'em).

MikeinKy · Sep 23, 2018

Gas or diesel

fixt · Sep 23, 2018

Oops, its diesel.

Thanks so far to everyone.

SHALER · Sep 24, 2018

fixt, if indeed the diesel tractor is as advertised:
1. Unless the seller is in some very remote area, $5K is a very good price for you regardless of year, OR
2. the 'cosmetic issues" you mention are quite severe requiring a significant amount of new tin / paint or overall restoration, OR
3. There are more issues present than just cosmetic ones.
I would bet #3 to be the case.

fixt · Sep 25, 2018

Here are the pictures, such as they are, from the ad.

IF I got it, the cab would have to go. I much prefer open station.
I'd have to buy fenders after the cab comes off. Add lights then, only one I can see now on it.
It does need paint and decals and such. I consider that minor.
The rear engine side panels are missing or don't come on the cab model.
The tires are not new, but not too bad, and the rear isn't covered in oil. Looks like the top link is somewhere else for some reason.
I don't know the year, hours, a bunch of other stuff and I haven't seen it up close. Looked at the oil, fluids condition and such.
Hours would tell me quite a bit as far as general wear. I wouldn't buy a 8-9000 hr tractor and not expect something major just any time out of the blue. At the same time for the stated price, I expect some things to be needed. The big question is how much dollars will the unexpected be? And that's always the risk and the question.

To be honest I am a little scared of it and suspect there are some issues present that are not stated, as Shaler suggests.
I am simply not prepared to break that thing for a clutch pack or turn around and spend a great wad other than normal maintenance and restoration type stuff to get everything working like its supposed to at this time.
Thank you guys for the help.

Bob · Sep 25, 2018

(quoted from post at 16:19:28 09/25/18)
Here are the pictures, such as they are, from the ad.

IF I got it, the cab would have to go. I much prefer open station.
I'd have to buy fenders after the cab comes off. Add lights then, only one I can see now on it.
It does need paint and decals and such. I consider that minor.
The rear engine side panels are missing or don't come on the cab model.
The tires are not new, but not too bad, and the rear isn't covered in oil. Looks like the top link is somewhere else for some reason.
I don't know the year, hours, a bunch of other stuff and I haven't seen it up close. Looked at the oil, fluids condition and such.
Hours would tell me quite a bit as far as general wear. I wouldn't buy a 8-9000 hr tractor and not expect something major just any time out of the blue. At the same time for the stated price, I expect some things to be needed. The big question is how much dollars will the unexpected be? And that's always the risk and the question.

To be honest I am a little scared of it and suspect there are some issues present that are not stated, as Shaler suggests.
I am simply not prepared to break that thing for a clutch pack or turn around and spend a great wad other than normal maintenance and restoration type stuff to get everything working like its supposed to at this time.
Thank you guys for the help.

Looks to me like a pre-side console tractor with a Hiniker cab (best cab you could have on a 4020), and only "single hydraulics".

But if the engine, transmission, and hydraulics are sound it's worth (at least close to) 5K, around here, anyhow.

Are you looking for a working tractor or something to restore 100% original?

If needing to restore 100% original, better pass (because of the costs you have already noted), if you are gonna WORK it, it mite turn out to be an OK deal.

larryanderson · Sep 27, 2018

I was contending bidder on a nice 66 4020 powershift last week at $8200 . It had a roll guard w/canopy $1200/rock box$250/hydraulic 3rd link/$250.I didn't know anything about it as it was at a dealer auction and had been repossessed and I prefer console models.Later I found out it was a good tractor but with out hearing it run I passed.Would have been much better buy than one in question.Fenders will be at least $500.

fixt · Oct 2, 2018

Well, I'm still in the hospital, presumably getting out tomorrow.
Because it was an unknown, I decided best to let this one pass.
I still need to know more about the medical bills yet to arrive before I leap and overextend myself. I'm sure I'll be shocked enough when I get them for 10 day stay. I was apparently much sicker than what I thought I was.
There will be other tractors and I'll have one someday.

I appreciate all you guys knowledge and help.
Thanks again

4020_1966 · Oct 4, 2018

(reply to post at 20:46:13 10/02/18)

Looking at the pictures, I'm pretty sure its one of the early early ones (ie -91000) ones. In my experience those looked more like 4010s (less cast iron in the rear and front axle) and has the 15" front tires. It probably has the large type injectors not the pencil type that came with the -200999 "late early" (as I call them) and 201000+ late models. Those had less power than the other models did but were still good tractors and worked hard. My dad has one of them, grandpa bought it brand new in 1964 (71,xxx sn) and its still in the family. When its parked by my 1966 4020 it just looks smaller and lighter.

Tx Jim · Oct 4, 2018

(quoted from post at 03:22:12 10/04/18)

(reply to post at 20:46:13 10/02/18)

Click to expand...

In my experience those looked more like 4010s (less cast iron in the rear and front axle) and has the 15" front tires. My dad has one of them, grandpa bought it brand new in 1964 (71,xxx sn) and its still in the family. When its parked by my 1966 4020 it just looks smaller and lighter.

Early 4020's('64-'68) utilized the same rear axle housings(AR54736) as later models('69-'72) while 4010 utilized axle housing(AR30676). Early model 4020 trans cases(AR39621) were only utilized on this model but not on 4010 which utilized(AR30069)

fdt860 · Oct 5, 2018

Usually tractors with ugly cabs are bringing much less money. I would try it hard before passing on it.
After you got the cab off, buff up that hood, put some fenders on it, get some "John Deere" side plates and it will look much better.
Aftermarket fenders are cheaper than they used to be, as there is more competition between the dealers, and Sparex, Advantage, and A&I are all making them.

The front of the hood is not all beaten up and that matters more than the ugly cab. A nicely restored Hiniker with a nice interior kit is nice, but you are too far from it to try it.
My preference with cabs on early Deeres goes for the late crenlo cabs that make the tractor look just "mean". Particularly on 5020s or 4020s with 23.1 30 dual tires???

John Deere 4020

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