3020 Ignition Parts

ajhbike

Member
A couple of questions:

-How can I tell the type of distributor when there are no markings?
-Same goes for points, condenser, rotor and distributor cap...NAPA is matching visually.
 
The new cap was has 2 different size screws and the small line will not go in. The old cap had the same but bites. Any way to change the screws?
 
Screws are different. 0.164 and 0.190
Probably to keep someone from rotating cap.
 
Are you saying the new screws are too short?
Return the cap and get one from another source.
 
Okay, so here is where I am at...

Batteries are both new and good condition, new battery cables. After replacing the coil, distributor cap, points, plug wires and plugs, I checked the spark from the coil to the distributor and from the distributor to each plug is pretty thin and yellow.

I am wondering if the wiring for the ignition and start button should be upgraded from #14 wire to at least 12ga or maybe 10ga once I get the batteries hooked up and contacts cleaned. The ignition switch spades are pretty gunked up. The zenith carb is currently being rebuilt so at least I will have a good base of good carb, good fuel line, good fuel pump.

Can the switches and thin wiring affect start up? Even with both batteries the engine rolls over pretty slowly...at least compared to my Super C. And once the batteries get to 93-95% charged, the engine won't roll over. But if I bridge the poles on the starter I can roll it over. Thoughts? As always, thanks.
 
Where is the battery ground cable connected? If grounded to tinwork moving it to the block or to one of the starter mount bolts might help. Have you had the starter checked out? As far as the start circuit, the wiring and switch are only carrying current to engage the solenoid. What is the voltage at the solenoid terminal when the switch is turned to start? If voltage drops it may not be firmly engaging. Bad contacts inside the solenoid can cause starter problems. If you are bridging the large posts on the solenoid you are bypassing those internal contacts. I believe JD has a relay kit for some of these tractors. It adds a small relay solenoid between the switch and solenoid on the starter to reduce draw through the switch. Does yours have the relay solenoid in the start circuit?

On the ignition circuit side, high resistance in the switch contacts, wiring, or connections can cause voltage drops in the feed to the coil/points.
 
Battery negative is connected under the floor pan next to the battery box to the main body (?) of the tractor. It is good and solid.
 
No- I have not had the starter checked and I have not checked the voltage at the solenoid terminal. There is what appears to be a small solenoid mounted above the starter solenoid....let me get a pic tonight so I can show it. Thank you.
 
Actually, if you can zoom in on the wiring mess, you can see that there is a relay or solenoid above the starter solenoid.
 
mvphoto24159.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 08:06:22 09/25/18)
mvphoto24159.jpg

The round black object above the starter solenoid in your photo is a circuit breaker, NOT a relay.

Even with both batteries the engine rolls over pretty slowly...at least compared to my Super C. And once the batteries get to 93-95% charged, the engine won't roll over. "

It's hard to follow what you mean by that, are you saying the engine WILL crank, but NOT after the batteries are fully charged???

Which terminals are you "bridging"?

As to the ignition bigger wire is 'most always "better", but a typical Kettering ignition system only needs about 4 Amps, so if switch, wire and connections are in good shape it doesn't take a very large wire to power the coil.

Furthermore, while cranking, there's an extra contact in the starter solenoid that sends full battery voltage directly to the coil. This is the "R" terminal on the solenoid.



solenoid-for-delco-5mt-8mt-10mt-20mt-22mt-25mt-27mt-starters-245-12004-2.gif
 
The engine cranks when batteries are charged. When the batteries get to 93-95% the engine will not crank...silence.
 
As Bob asked, and I mentioned previously; which terminals are you bridging? At the point when it will not crank, did you use a jumper between the battery terminal and the "S" (start) terminal on the solenoid? Or did you bridge between the battery and motor terminals of the solenoid?

Just a wild thought, have you tried rapidly rocking the steering wheel back and forth while cranking to see if the cranking speed increases?
 
and yes, I have tried that. I did find that when the 3 point was up with a load, the motor cranked harder but learned that lesson. I lower before cranking
 
With the tractor in neutral or park and the key on, try a jumper wire, or a remote start button, from the battery terminal on the solenoid to the small start terminal of the solenoid. If it cranks and starts ok this way you can try adding the extra start assist solenoid kit JD has, or make your own. If your tractor has one already it maybe behind the dash area. If it doesn't change the cranking I would pull the starter and get it gone thru. Have you checked the voltage at the starter battery cable post when it is cranking to see what the drop is compared to not cranking? It maybe as simple as changing the solenoid on the starter.
 

If you look closely, there is a connector on the circuit breaker that has no wire on it and there is a yellow wire beneath it with no home. I will have to trace that back and see if it belongs to the connector.

In fact, I can't find any wiring diagrams that include the circuit breaker. I just bought the service manual so maybe in there.
 

No, Jim I haven't done that and I will look at trying those tests...I hope I don't need to do the starter.
 
While we are on the subject...I know what a circuit breaker's function is, but a guy at work was saying that a lot of them on old cars melt while protecting and need to be replaced. Does mine look like the type that resets?
 
(quoted from post at 09:42:23 09/27/18) While we are on the subject...I know what a circuit breaker's function is, but a guy at work was saying that a lot of them on old cars melt while protecting and need to be replaced. Does mine look like the type that resets?

Your breaker is self-resetting.

DEERE used $$$ heavy-duty CB, and they seldom fail, in my experience.

From a previous thread "Main circuit breaker field installed to protect the electrical system. They were included in a replacement wiring harness or could be added to original wiring. Side console tractors had them from the factory but mounted with the starting relay."


Circuit breaker is in BLUE wire from starter battery cable post up to switch panel.
 
so you are saying the part above the starting solenoid is not a circuit breaker? It is a starter relay?
 
(quoted from post at 10:01:46 09/27/18) so you are saying the part above the starting solenoid is not a circuit breaker? It is a starter relay?

Nope, I sure never said that!

It's definitely a C.B., and it is connected in between the source of power (where the battery cable connects) and the wiring harness to the rest of the tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 10:42:23 09/27/18) While we are on the subject...I know what a circuit breaker's function is, but a guy at work was saying that a lot of them on old cars melt while protecting and need to be replaced. Does mine look like the type that resets?

I don't know of actual circuit breakers melting unless something catastrophic happened, then the melt down was usually internal to the breaker housing. I do remember some vehicles did have a replaceable fusible link, i.e. wire, located near the battery where it could be seen that would melt/burn off if overloaded. These links were originally routed clear of other wiring to prevent damage to the other wiring in that area if they did get hot and fail.
 

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