42 Model A Clutch Operating Bolts

fixer2u

Member
Greetings.
I was using my cousin's 42 model A in a tractor pull when the clutch started slipping badly so I immediately pulled back the lever to stop any further damage.. Upon further inspection I found one of the cotter pins in a castle nut was gone and it appears that the bolt is now stripped as I cannot tighten it at all. The nut just spins.

So it looks like it is time to replace the clutch bolts. The question is, do I need to completely disassemble the clutch in order to get the bolts out or can I just remove the whole clutch assembly from the side of the tractor an push the bolts out the back?

I have the parts manual and it is not clear to me how this needs to go.

Thanks in advance for any replies!

Nick
 
You will need to disassemble the clutch, as well as remove the pulley from the crankshaft. There is a cotter pin through the bolts in the outside half of the pulley that has to be removed to push the bolts out the back. Key #2 in the exploded view.
a277454.jpg
 
Darn, I was hoping you would not say that lol.

So then the next question is what size bolts do I need to help pop the clutch driver off the crank splines? I have found several videos that list different sizes for different tractors, but have not found one for this model and year.

Thanks again!
 
You will have to remove the whole clutch assembly. It really isn't all that hard to do. There are 4 bolts on the front of the first reduction gear housing that come out that will pull the clutch fork out (I may be wrong on what its called) the three adjusting nuts come off and then all of the facings will come off. Once you get the clutch driver take the bolt out and if you have some square nuts you put those in the holes and tighten down a bolt through there and the driver should pop off if you don't have square nuts get a fancy puller from your local auto parts store and to pull the driver just be careful you can do damage if you use an impact gun and wail on it but before you pull the driver off completely look for arrows that point to each other since the clutch driver is a counter balance to the engine, if it doesn't have the markings then put a mark so you know how it goes back together. Once the driver is off the whole pully comes out its kinda heavy so brace yourself, and you have have to either take rim and tire off or move the hub out so you can pull the pully out. Once you have it out you should be able to push the t bolts out. Now I maybe one of the few that once you have it apart there is no need to go back in there again for a long time and you might as well just replace the t bolts dogs and toggles, along with all of the facings, because if one part is wore out its for sure that something else in there is on its way out as well, and be sure to put some grease on the bearing that the pully rides on crankshaft while the clutch isn't engaged and check the splines on the crankshaft and the driver because bad splines on a driver and crankshaft can cause a lot of knocking if is allowed to continue like that can cause part numbers to fly off and money flying out of the wallet... put it all back together the same way you pulled it out adjust and go back to pulling
 
Thank you for the reply. I think I understand.

What side square nuts and bolts is it recommended I use?
 
Just as a follow up before i tore everything apart I tried just changing out the nuts with fresh ones just to see if they would all tighten down. Turn out that was the problem. The new nuts bit nicely and I has able to get the clutch adjusted properly. I pulled 304 and beat our Super M (Which won the Memorial Day Pull) by 5 feet. Didnt take top 3, but I can still do some things to shift weight around!

Here is a vid.

https://youtu.be/W5N71AnrkSs
 

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