I am considering buying a 1961 JD gas 2010 loader with a 93 hoe attached. I noticed when letting out the clutch, especially in reverse, nothing happens for two or three seconds and then the machine responds as expected. Is there a fluid coupling in the drivetrain? The hydraulic fluid is low. There is also noticeable backlash in the drivetrain when moving over uneven ground and the drivetrain is momentarily unloaded.
- Thread starter Mr. Metal
- Start date
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
I'd run not walk away from that thing. The 1010 and 2010 where 2 of the worst models of tractor JD ever built. Parts are hard to come by and cost an arm and leg if you can find them and they are a real pain in the back sides to work on. As for clutch delay that could be as simple as the problem on found on a 1020 I have in the shop and the clutch pedal cross shaft was so badly rusted at the pivot points it was almost impossible to push down so that caused odd problems.
I have a 1010 part tractor and it is a parts tractor due to the cost of parts to fix it and the fact the parts are super hard to find. Just the sleeve pack cost over $500 and that is no piston rings etc etc and that is if you can find a set
So RUN and RUN fast
I have a 1010 part tractor and it is a parts tractor due to the cost of parts to fix it and the fact the parts are super hard to find. Just the sleeve pack cost over $500 and that is no piston rings etc etc and that is if you can find a set
So RUN and RUN fast
Hay maker2
Member
The 1010 and 2010 are not bad tractors at all. They are relatively good machines that are 50+ years old. Most of the negative stuff that you post about these tractors are hear say, just repeating someone else opinion with little to offer other than that. There are good 4020's and there are bad 4020's, just look at the post that JDSeller had about his 4020 gasser a month ago or so. Why don't you start condemning the 4020's? What about the PITA hydraulics on the utility models? I can go on and on as every tractor has its own issues as some are worse than other and some are better than others. Regardless of the make or model, each tractor can be praised as the greatest thing on earth and in the next phrase be condemned at the same time.
You need to remember these are 50+ year old machines. Your knees are not as good as they once were either.
I have two 1010's and a 2010. I have no issues getting parts, yes some times it takes a few phone calls but I can get them. Don't forget that there are obsolete parts on a 20, 30, and 40 series John Deere too, so you need to start condemning them ones too.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
All I can say to this is BULL many many people hate the 1010 and 2010 because they are hard to find parts for and if you find the parts they cost more then any other tractor in there range. I'd NEVER recommend some one buy one so in this case keep your opinion to your self you have no right to put me down for posting what I think of the 1010 and 2010
Hay maker2
Member
If you want him to keep his OPINION to himself, shouldn't you also keep your OPINION to yourself as you like to voice your OPINION and condemn the 1010 and 2010?
Just my OPINION....
Hay maker2
Member
I do not think the 2010 loader tractor was offered with a shuttle lever (forwards/reverse) such as the fork trucks did, correct me if I am wrong.
To answer your question, I want to think that the clutch is worn out and not gripping the flywheel or a weak pressure plate. With this being said, maybe the linkage is sloppy and throw out bearing is not releasing the pressure plate all the way either.
I would be curious to know if you chained the tractor to a tree can you spin the tires or does the clutch slip? Try it in multiple gears.
Maybe there is something wrong with a synconizer, but I would think you would have more issues shifting through the gears.
Mr. Metal: I have worked on JD tractors now for close to 45 years now. I will tell you some fellows had fairly good luck with the JD 2010s. I will also tell you that a far larger majority had terrible luck with them. The choice is yours. Just know that repairs can easily cost more then the value of the tractor. Also any old tractor with a backhoe usually has been used HARD. So with the drive issue your talking about I would be prepared to replace the clutch if you buy it. IF this is an industrial model replacing the clutch is a time consuming deal. So if you can not do the repair yourself the cost will not be cheap.
Your deal, your money. Buyer beware!!!!
Your deal, your money. Buyer beware!!!!
I live in an area where there were several 1010 and 2010's sold new. Most of the 1010 gas were decent tractors, the diesels were junk. The 2010's gas or diesel are to be avoided. I have a neighbor who bought a new 2010. It has had the engine rebuilt 3 times and still will hardly run. The hydraulics barely work and have been repaired several times. You can hardly give away a 2010 here. 1010's have a little better reputation. This isn't hear say or second hand information. I have had 3 1010 gas tractors and they were ok tractors.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
I have a 1010 tha twas junk when we got it and is not just a few parts and pieces and to have fixed it would have cost 3 time what it was worth. I have also worked on a few 2010 and I did get them working but it was not as easy as on many I have worked on
tomstractorsandtoys
Well-known Member
I have three different 2010's and have not been impressed with any. The last one was one of the last gas ones made and not a terrible tractor but not good either. The difference between a bad 4020 and a bad 2010 is that any 4020 no matter how bad can be brought back to life. A bad 2010 is just one problem after another the sleeve deck engine is way overpriced,the hyd's are poor even when good and the pto engagement system was a bad design as well. It is hard to imagine that the company that produced the 4010 and 3010 built such a poor tractor as the 2010 and it took untill late 1965 to bring out the 2510 and 2020 which were a great design.The last built 2010 gassers were ok (they will have a spin on oil filter rather than the cartridge).Tom
Pete in MD
Well-known Member
- Location
- Central Maryland
Rich, are you offended by his Old Hippy Tractor handle?
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
It sure does not please me since to me that sort of causes PDSD but tha tin it self is a long long story and what I put up with in high school and till I call my dad the last time I was in the Principals office and that was in fact the last time I was in his office
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Up yours bet you one that uses more then one name here just so you can attack and stay hidden
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
That only holds true if the person does it in such a way so to not bad mouth or belittle a person which as I see it he is doing. I am only saying what I have found with the 1010 and 2010 tractor I have worked on and found parts are high and hard to find and as for working on them are a pain in many ways
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Hay maker2
Do any of your 1010/2010's have diesel engines?
I was employed by a JD dealer from '66-'87 and have plenty of hands on experience with a 1010/2010. Granted the 2010 gasoline engine models weren't too bad once one overlooked their poor brakes,hyd systems & weird pto engagement but the diesel engine models gave a lot of problems. I also remember the pre-combustion chambers that gave problems in the diesel cylinder heads. Most 2010 diesels are difficult to start in cold weather and smoke similar to a old steam locomotive. Then throw in the Prestolite starters with the funky starter switch shown below.
Mnethercutt
Member
I've got a 1010 parts tractor and a 1010 that I use. I will say that from an engine standpoint, if the sleeve goes bad (used on the 1010 and 2010), it may be easier to get an entire new engine rather than getting the new sleeve. They're really hard to find, and if you do manage to find one you're gonna pay. Cheapest I could find was a used one from a salvage place and they wanted 300 dollars. There are several "running" 1010/2010 engines on eBay for 500 dollars, and if you've got the rest of the engine that may be the cheaper route. I payed 600 for my parts 1010 with a good engine, just no oil pump. Personally, I love the rest of my 1010, and while it can be hard to work on at times, that's part of the joy of it for me. Also, one of mine sat out in the rain/snow/weather for 20+ years without a hood on it. The engine was shot, but the rest of the tractor just needed a bath & oil change. After a new engine she worked like a charm. If you can get a good engine in the tractor, the rest of the 1010/2010 is a good tractor, in my opinion.
Hay maker2
Member
(quoted from post at 13:58:02 01/26/17)
Hay maker2
Do any of your 1010/2010's have diesel engines?
I was employed by a JD dealer from '66-'87 and have plenty of hands on experience with a 1010/2010. Granted the 2010 gasoline engine models weren't too bad once one overlooked their poor brakes,hyd systems & weird pto engagement but the diesel engine models gave a lot of problems. I also remember the pre-combustion chambers that gave problems in the diesel cylinder heads. Most 2010 diesels are difficult to start in cold weather and smoke similar to a old steam locomotive. Then throw in the Prestolite starters with the funky starter switch shown below.
No diesel engines here. I do agree that there were major issues with the diesel's and I would not consider buying one. This post involves a gas engine.
I also replaced my Prestolite starter with a Delco years ago. Then again everyone complains about the Delco starters being junk on a 4020....
I am not disputing the low hydraulic pressures / volumes or the weird PTO engagement. Look at other colors of that generation and the 1010 and 2010 are comparable to them in power and features. Yes there big brothers (3010 / 4010) were introduced with industries changing hydraulics (brakes, steering, rockshafts) and other features too. As time went on the 1020/2020/2510 replaced them and the newer and better options were implemented on these new models. Just like the 4020 was a newer and better model than the 4010 and so on....
I also have a 430 (I own 17 tractors in all). I would much rather work on the 1010 than the 430. There is more space between the radiator and the front of the engine that the 430. Yes there is a steering shaft that runs through the gas tank and I would rather work around that than the 430.
Trying to compare a 1010 or a 2010 to a 3010 or a 4010 is like comparing a Yugo to a Chevy. Its not a fair comparison to either.
Hay maker2
Member
No diesel engines here. I do agree that there were major issues with the diesel's and I would not consider buying one. This post involves a gas engine.
I also replaced my Prestolite starter with a Delco years ago. Then again everyone complains about the Delco starters being junk on a 4020....
I am not disputing the low hydraulic pressures / volumes or the weird PTO engagement. Look at other colors of that generation and the 1010 and 2010 are comparable to them in power and features. Yes there big brothers (3010 / 4010) were introduced with industries changing hydraulics (brakes, steering, rockshafts) and other features too. As time went on the 1020/2020/2510 replaced them and the newer and better options were implemented on these new models. Just like the 4020 was a newer and better model than the 4010 and so on....
I also have a 430 (I own 17 tractors in all). I would much rather work on the 1010 than the 430. There is more space between the radiator and the front of the engine that the 430. Yes there is a steering shaft that runs through the gas tank and I would rather work around that than the 430.
Trying to compare a 1010 or a 2010 to a 3010 or a 4010 is like comparing a Yugo to a Chevy. Its not a fair comparison to either.
I also replaced my Prestolite starter with a Delco years ago. Then again everyone complains about the Delco starters being junk on a 4020....
I am not disputing the low hydraulic pressures / volumes or the weird PTO engagement. Look at other colors of that generation and the 1010 and 2010 are comparable to them in power and features. Yes there big brothers (3010 / 4010) were introduced with industries changing hydraulics (brakes, steering, rockshafts) and other features too. As time went on the 1020/2020/2510 replaced them and the newer and better options were implemented on these new models. Just like the 4020 was a newer and better model than the 4010 and so on....
I also have a 430 (I own 17 tractors in all). I would much rather work on the 1010 than the 430. There is more space between the radiator and the front of the engine that the 430. Yes there is a steering shaft that runs through the gas tank and I would rather work around that than the 430.
Trying to compare a 1010 or a 2010 to a 3010 or a 4010 is like comparing a Yugo to a Chevy. Its not a fair comparison to either.
I can't take it anymore ! LOL.
Please everyone who has NEVER owned a 1010 or 2010 go out and buy one. You won't know what you have missed out on until you have owned at least 1 ! That is my recommendation !
"Disclaimer" I'm not liable for any dissatisfaction or responsible for any pleasure either. This falls under the don't shoot the messenger clause.
Please everyone who has NEVER owned a 1010 or 2010 go out and buy one. You won't know what you have missed out on until you have owned at least 1 ! That is my recommendation !
"Disclaimer" I'm not liable for any dissatisfaction or responsible for any pleasure either. This falls under the don't shoot the messenger clause.
f it has a Hi-Low-Reverse Transmission then yes, their is a portion you could call a fluid coupling. Their is a Shift/Accumulator Valve, I have "NO" experience with this transmission, but the issue are wondering about may be related to this portion of the transmission, as to the delayed response. As far as the backlash, it is attributable to gear wear/bearings in the transmission.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
The reason I say what I say about the 1010 and 2010 is because I have one and have worked on more then one and found them to be poor at best. So from what I have learned I have learned to NEVER recommend one to any body and if it is one that already has a problem then it is even a better reason not to recommend one
Please correct Me if I am wrong. In the eighteen post before my post, NO ONE BOTHERED TO ANSWER THE QUESTIONS as to the problems noted by MR. Metal.. I tried to answer him as honestly as I could. No where did I give my opinion / recommendation as to buy or pass on tractor in question.
Hay maker2
Member
You may want to read back thought the 18 posts again
Hay maker2, I'm not here to fight with anyone. I knew when i posted that I was opening a can of worms. Maybe I'm splitting hair's here, not that you did not give him an answer, but you questioned the idea of a shuttle lever being offered on the 2010 hence no fluid connection. According to the original shop parts manual that I have it was indeed offered. I'm not sure if you consider the Hi-Low-Reverse Transmission as a shuttle. Hence i qualified my statement, that if it was a, Hi-Low-Reverse Transmission, what he might expect and indeed their is, as he put it, a fluid component in the drive train. I further gave him an explanation for the possible causes of noticeable backlash in the drive train when moving over uneven ground and the drive train is momentarily unloaded which you did not. It's often what the poster does not say that leads to speculation as it has in this instance. Hopefully he will let us know which transmission he does have. So I apologize if you took my second post wrong.
Thanks for the good information. This is an industrial, yellow, tractor. There is a high-low-reverse lever on the left and an eight speed-park lever on the right. So it makes sense that the delay may well be related to the shift/accumulator valve. I'm in up-state NY and the machine is covered with a huge tarp (a swimming pool cover) so between the snow and being frozen to the ground, it takes a half hour or so to uncover it and longer to replace the cover. My immediate use for the machine is to re-grade around my pond that was recently deepened. The mounds around the pond are now frozen solid so I can't accomplish much until spring. There are many trees in the way, hence the need for a hoe as well as the loader.
This is currently my son's machine. He snatched it at a good price and has added 1 new tire, a used stabilizer cylinder, a new starter, and a new battery. Since it turned out to be a larger machine than he wanted, he decided to sell it and I told him I would take it for what he had in it. He never used it so I am trying to decide if I really want it. To check out the clutch, as suggested, I could try chaining the machine to a tree or put the loader against something immovable but with the weight of the hoe on the back I think the engine would stall before the tires would spin. Might also break something in the process.
The temperature for the next several days is expected to be in the teens so other work will take priority over the tractor. Thanks again for your help.
This is currently my son's machine. He snatched it at a good price and has added 1 new tire, a used stabilizer cylinder, a new starter, and a new battery. Since it turned out to be a larger machine than he wanted, he decided to sell it and I told him I would take it for what he had in it. He never used it so I am trying to decide if I really want it. To check out the clutch, as suggested, I could try chaining the machine to a tree or put the loader against something immovable but with the weight of the hoe on the back I think the engine would stall before the tires would spin. Might also break something in the process.
The temperature for the next several days is expected to be in the teens so other work will take priority over the tractor. Thanks again for your help.
Well you maybe back to square one.. your quote "There is a high-low-reverse lever on the left and an eight speed-park lever on the right." Are you sure that it is not a John Deere Syncro-Range, Gears: 8 forward and 3 reverse . Their is a good picture of this on the 2010 listing in the JD Tractor Data site, under transmissions. You won't have the 2 levers just to the left of the steering wheel as they are for the rock shaft which your tractor probably does not have. One other thing that a Hi-Low-Reverse Transmission would have is an oil cooler up by the radiator.
Hay maker2
Member
Thanks for the update.
If there is anything else, don't be afraid to ask!
this is according to treactorfriends:
Model 2010 tractors were available with three different engines--gasoline, diesel, or LP gas. Models 1010 and 2010 had four-cylinder engines; Models 3010 and 4010 had six-cylinders. The upper three models had Syncro-Range transmissions, which provided eight forward and three reverse gears. These transmissions incorporated synchronizers (small clutches) which allowed operators to change speeds on the move in each of four ranges and to shuttle-shift between forward and reverse.
Now, I have a early 2010, and I have no shuttle shift on the left console. According to my JD operator manual, OM-T14690-T dated June 1959 it says: "Shifting from neutral - Having determined the proper gear, depress the clutch to disengage the clutch and move the shift lever from neutral into slot for the gear desired. Be shure the shift lever is moved far enough into the quadrant slots to allow the gears to mesh; this can be felt with the fingers. Gradually release the clutch pedal to take up the load smoothly.
Shifting from one gear to another - The transmission can be shifted from forward ear to another forward gear of the same shift station while the tractor is in motion. For instance, you can shift between 1st gear and 2nd without stopping the tractor. This is a speed shift; merely declutch momentarily while shifting. You can also shift from a forward gear to reverse gear of the same shift station while tractor is in motion. This is especially useful in 'shuttling' the tractor back and forth when a traction stall has occurred or for loader operations.
To shift to a new gear not in combination with the one in which you are operating, stop the tractor, depress the clutch, and move the shift elver to neutral. You can then shift from neutral to the new gear in the usual manner and gradually release the clutch pedal to engage the clutch.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
What I take from this above. there are four stations of shift groups(1-2-R2; 3-4-R4;5-6-R6;7-8). None of them have a fluid coupling as this is a standard dry clutch and no fluid or 'automatic' shifting/shuttling is afforded. When you are in a shift group, such as 3-4-R4, by using the clutch you can go from 3 to 4 and to R4 and back to 4, and back to 3 just by clutching and moving the lever when the tractor is in motion. However it is clear that you MUST USE THE CLUTCH to switch gears.
The levers on the left of the console work the 3 point, and also the remote hyd stations based on how things are connected to the fluid couplings. They can work in 'load' or 'depth' modes or some kind of inbeetween mode that I haven't figured out yet.
If the clutch is let out on the tractor, and it waits a few seconds to engage and move off, I would say there is either fluid on the clutch face, and it's being burned off as the heat builds up, or the clutch fork arm has some kind of crust on it that delays engagement, or the springs/levers on the pressure plate are corroded. This is my best guess, unless later year models have some kind fo semi-automatic soft de-clutching mechanism that I'm unaware of.
I would say hook something, anything to the 3 point on the back, let the implement down on the ground, put it in 3, let the clutch out and see if it will dig the tires in or move off under power. My guess is it will just sit there and moan as the worn out clutch strips the remaining friction surface down to nothing.
As for the reliability availability serviceability of the model, I have an LP unit. I borescoped it before buying and the inside of the engine is spotless(no shock). The unit has so far worked flawlessly, but I haven't got much time on it yet, so I can't comment on the RAS issues.
I LOVE the seat and controls, and power steering. I don't so much love the various leaks, but it is what it is, and the leaks aren't slowing me down any. Compared to the Ford 8N, it's a world better. My only complaint is one should move very S-l-o-w with PTO engagement as the decoupling(on mine) is sticky, maybe due to lack of use.
In the next few weeks, I"m going to be mounting my front loader and hooking up to the hyd system. We will know then if the hyd can handle the needs of the medium size front loader, but I've seen plenty of them with loaders on and no issues. If one is having hyd pressure issues, I would say it's overdue for a pump rebuild, and fresh fluid.
Model 2010 tractors were available with three different engines--gasoline, diesel, or LP gas. Models 1010 and 2010 had four-cylinder engines; Models 3010 and 4010 had six-cylinders. The upper three models had Syncro-Range transmissions, which provided eight forward and three reverse gears. These transmissions incorporated synchronizers (small clutches) which allowed operators to change speeds on the move in each of four ranges and to shuttle-shift between forward and reverse.
Now, I have a early 2010, and I have no shuttle shift on the left console. According to my JD operator manual, OM-T14690-T dated June 1959 it says: "Shifting from neutral - Having determined the proper gear, depress the clutch to disengage the clutch and move the shift lever from neutral into slot for the gear desired. Be shure the shift lever is moved far enough into the quadrant slots to allow the gears to mesh; this can be felt with the fingers. Gradually release the clutch pedal to take up the load smoothly.
Shifting from one gear to another - The transmission can be shifted from forward ear to another forward gear of the same shift station while the tractor is in motion. For instance, you can shift between 1st gear and 2nd without stopping the tractor. This is a speed shift; merely declutch momentarily while shifting. You can also shift from a forward gear to reverse gear of the same shift station while tractor is in motion. This is especially useful in 'shuttling' the tractor back and forth when a traction stall has occurred or for loader operations.
To shift to a new gear not in combination with the one in which you are operating, stop the tractor, depress the clutch, and move the shift elver to neutral. You can then shift from neutral to the new gear in the usual manner and gradually release the clutch pedal to engage the clutch.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
What I take from this above. there are four stations of shift groups(1-2-R2; 3-4-R4;5-6-R6;7-8). None of them have a fluid coupling as this is a standard dry clutch and no fluid or 'automatic' shifting/shuttling is afforded. When you are in a shift group, such as 3-4-R4, by using the clutch you can go from 3 to 4 and to R4 and back to 4, and back to 3 just by clutching and moving the lever when the tractor is in motion. However it is clear that you MUST USE THE CLUTCH to switch gears.
The levers on the left of the console work the 3 point, and also the remote hyd stations based on how things are connected to the fluid couplings. They can work in 'load' or 'depth' modes or some kind of inbeetween mode that I haven't figured out yet.
If the clutch is let out on the tractor, and it waits a few seconds to engage and move off, I would say there is either fluid on the clutch face, and it's being burned off as the heat builds up, or the clutch fork arm has some kind of crust on it that delays engagement, or the springs/levers on the pressure plate are corroded. This is my best guess, unless later year models have some kind fo semi-automatic soft de-clutching mechanism that I'm unaware of.
I would say hook something, anything to the 3 point on the back, let the implement down on the ground, put it in 3, let the clutch out and see if it will dig the tires in or move off under power. My guess is it will just sit there and moan as the worn out clutch strips the remaining friction surface down to nothing.
As for the reliability availability serviceability of the model, I have an LP unit. I borescoped it before buying and the inside of the engine is spotless(no shock). The unit has so far worked flawlessly, but I haven't got much time on it yet, so I can't comment on the RAS issues.
I LOVE the seat and controls, and power steering. I don't so much love the various leaks, but it is what it is, and the leaks aren't slowing me down any. Compared to the Ford 8N, it's a world better. My only complaint is one should move very S-l-o-w with PTO engagement as the decoupling(on mine) is sticky, maybe due to lack of use.
In the next few weeks, I"m going to be mounting my front loader and hooking up to the hyd system. We will know then if the hyd can handle the needs of the medium size front loader, but I've seen plenty of them with loaders on and no issues. If one is having hyd pressure issues, I would say it's overdue for a pump rebuild, and fresh fluid.
I paid $1700 for mine a few months back. It had near new rear tires, good fronts, very good clutch, new seat, and decent hyd power. It's been left out for +30 years, and it looks horrible. Not so much rust, but lots of faded, scratched, scraped and flaky green paint. The fenders were missing, and the lights don't work, but everything else is in good fettle.
So far, to do the work I've had to do I would need to pay $2-3k to have someone else come and do it, or to rent a unit and work on the clock. It's paid for itself so far, and I can get $500 for the back tires and tubes if the whole thing goes Tango Uniform tomorrow.
Since I have the LP unit, I have a higher comp ratio than the gas unit but not as high as the diesel, and it is spark fired, so it has the higher rated coil. It's maybe hard to start when cold mostly because I don't know what I'm doing very well with LP. If it really gets bad when cold, I spritz a few shots of carb cleaner into the intake pipe while cranking until the LP vaporizes and it runs on its own. I consider the LP engine to be a bit under-rated by the book, and it has gobs of pulling power with the new tires.(maybe I'm just used to the 8N)
Not a fan of the shifting mechanism, although the trans seems quite stout, the getting into and out of gears with the shifter is a bit sketchy. My plan is to remove the slop from the shifting gates on the drum, and also replace/make the sleeves in the shift rods where they attach to the shift forks at the trans housing. There's a lot of movement has occurred over the course of the life of the shifter, and it's all a dry bunch of levers and arms. I've had it shift by itself a couple times from R4 to 4 which stops things rather abruptly. If I yank it hard into R4, it stays, but this is all slop in the shifting mechanism. I'm dealing with it.
For anyone planning the 2010, plan to resolve shifting issues and getting it back where the mfg designed it. There is plenty of adjustment on the shift rods, and levers, but will need to remove the slop from the various coupling points along the way. If one is not familiar with setting up a gear box and shifter, have a pro do it. Costly damage is the result from getting stuck in two gears at once(which is why there are separate shift groups on the lever). If you are old enough to remember the Dodge 4 speed truck 'crashbox' trans/shifter, it's kinda like that, but double the number of levers and arms.
If I had my druthers, it would just have a bone stock 4 speed with a hi-lo split like normal humans, but JD decided to try something new. And, it worked but no one ever did it again, thankfully.
So far, to do the work I've had to do I would need to pay $2-3k to have someone else come and do it, or to rent a unit and work on the clock. It's paid for itself so far, and I can get $500 for the back tires and tubes if the whole thing goes Tango Uniform tomorrow.
Since I have the LP unit, I have a higher comp ratio than the gas unit but not as high as the diesel, and it is spark fired, so it has the higher rated coil. It's maybe hard to start when cold mostly because I don't know what I'm doing very well with LP. If it really gets bad when cold, I spritz a few shots of carb cleaner into the intake pipe while cranking until the LP vaporizes and it runs on its own. I consider the LP engine to be a bit under-rated by the book, and it has gobs of pulling power with the new tires.(maybe I'm just used to the 8N)
Not a fan of the shifting mechanism, although the trans seems quite stout, the getting into and out of gears with the shifter is a bit sketchy. My plan is to remove the slop from the shifting gates on the drum, and also replace/make the sleeves in the shift rods where they attach to the shift forks at the trans housing. There's a lot of movement has occurred over the course of the life of the shifter, and it's all a dry bunch of levers and arms. I've had it shift by itself a couple times from R4 to 4 which stops things rather abruptly. If I yank it hard into R4, it stays, but this is all slop in the shifting mechanism. I'm dealing with it.
For anyone planning the 2010, plan to resolve shifting issues and getting it back where the mfg designed it. There is plenty of adjustment on the shift rods, and levers, but will need to remove the slop from the various coupling points along the way. If one is not familiar with setting up a gear box and shifter, have a pro do it. Costly damage is the result from getting stuck in two gears at once(which is why there are separate shift groups on the lever). If you are old enough to remember the Dodge 4 speed truck 'crashbox' trans/shifter, it's kinda like that, but double the number of levers and arms.
If I had my druthers, it would just have a bone stock 4 speed with a hi-lo split like normal humans, but JD decided to try something new. And, it worked but no one ever did it again, thankfully.
I crawled under the tarp and took pictures of the shift levers on the left and right. You mentioned a transmission cooler. Note the transmission temperature gage in the picture on the right. I do recall seeing a line that disappeared up in front of the radiator and I assume went to a transmission cooler. Obviously I am totally unfamiliar with this machine so I appreciate any information or help y0u can provide.
This transmission seem to be the major difference between the Industrial version and the Agricultural version of the 2010. I'd say that pretty much settles the question on the type of transmission.
I will say that if you are going to keep it you would be wise to get the proper parts manual for the tractor, it is JD parts catalog no. PC-731. The catalog you find on the online JD site is for the Ag version and does not cover your tractor's transmission. I checked and their are several on E-bay for under $50. As I explained earlier, I do not know much about the transmission but had one with the Syncro-Range transmission. So I can't comment on how it should react during operation. If you have any other questions I maybe able to help please feel free to ask.
Jo
I will say that if you are going to keep it you would be wise to get the proper parts manual for the tractor, it is JD parts catalog no. PC-731. The catalog you find on the online JD site is for the Ag version and does not cover your tractor's transmission. I checked and their are several on E-bay for under $50. As I explained earlier, I do not know much about the transmission but had one with the Syncro-Range transmission. So I can't comment on how it should react during operation. If you have any other questions I maybe able to help please feel free to ask.
Jo
That is indeed different than the 2010 row-crop left side console. The right side gear stations look basically the same, but the left side is completely different. Based on what's left of the sticker, it looks like a shuttle type deal, and could be a fluid coupled interface. But why then does it have a clutch pedal and clutch? Maybe to go between gear sets, and once a gear set is selected, one can shuttle backward and forward. Heck, I don't know, but it looks strange enough I don't want to speculate anymore. Get a book I guess and RTFM.
OK, I can see what they did with this. The right console now selects the shift group, 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8. The low/high/reverse section was moved to the left console. Now, the group is selected with the right hand, and the fore, aft, high, low is selected with the left hand. This has nothing to do with any info on a fluid coupling, but since it shows a trans fluid temp gauge, this would indicate there's a fluidl coupling down in there with a cooler.
Hay maker2
Member
(quoted from post at 02:01:25 02/05/17)
I crawled under the tarp and took pictures of the shift levers on the left and right. You mentioned a transmission cooler. Note the transmission temperature gage in the picture on the right. I do recall seeing a line that disappeared up in front of the radiator and I assume went to a transmission cooler. Obviously I am totally unfamiliar with this machine so I appreciate any information or help y0u can provide.
I am not familiar with this transmission, but after studying the parts book out I can tell you that you need to use the clutch to change gears as these are a collar shift gears and the Hi/Low/Reverser can be shifted on the fly with no clutch. There should be no hesitation when letting the clutch out.
The hi/low/reverser system looks a lot like my powershift (C1 & C2 & PTO drums) transmission on my 4020 that I rebuilt a year ago. There could be low oil flow, plugged filter (water in the system), leaking valves or the drive/driven disks are wore out.
At this point I would stop and buy a John Deere Service manual before you go any further. I do assume that there are test ports on the side of the transmission to test for proper oil pressure for the Hi/Low/Reverser. Get some test gauges and figure out what is going on before you go any further.
Confirm with your local dealer which manual that you will need, I do Believe that it is SM-2036
Hay maker2
Member
I think your issue is in here or the lubrication pressure that supplies the oil to change the Hi/Low/Reverse. Get a manual, preferably buy an original one that had the color code information to distinguish high pressure and stand by pressure.
Gentlemen
Do you think that a 2 to 3 second delay in the shift valve in a high-lo reverse transmission/ valve system in this 56 year old tractor is cause for immediate concern if it functions properly after that delay ?? I would agree some basic maintenance surly would not hurt. Cleaning the two filters and proper fluid level may be helpful. At this juncture I'm only addressing the tractor. The loader and hoe are an entirely separate system. Their is one filter in the Rt side of the transmission under the floor board / round cover with 3 bolts and one in a housing where the transmission hydraulic lines come together/ a bolt on one end in the center holds it in place, sorry I do not know its exact location but following the hydraulic lines you should be able to find it. If you do this first pull the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission/ be ready to capture 8+/- gallons of oil, I'm not sure on the exact amount. The oil fill location is a 1" plug on the right side of the transmission above the floor board, behind where your foot would be located, oil should be level with the bottom of the plug threads. The filter in the transmission is a micro screen and can be cleaned by chemicals or with boiling water and soap. The main blockage will be a translucent wax collected on the micro screen from the oil and needs to be removed. A simple wash with gas/ diesel ect. will not be effective in cleaning out the wax. Test the filter before and after cleaning, stand it up on end and pour in oil comparing flow rates before and after. I had filter that would retain oil for 15 minutes, it all depends on the blockage of the micro screen. Now the filter in the other housing may be cleaned in the same way as the transmission or may not be cleanable, I leave it up to your discretion. Now a question, does the power steering seem hard to turn? If so let me know as their is a proportioning valve that may need cleaning. Also the serial number of your tractor would be helpful in the future, their should be a plate on the RT side of the engine with. Again if you have any questions, please feel free to ask. Sorry this post has gotten so long.
Do you think that a 2 to 3 second delay in the shift valve in a high-lo reverse transmission/ valve system in this 56 year old tractor is cause for immediate concern if it functions properly after that delay ?? I would agree some basic maintenance surly would not hurt. Cleaning the two filters and proper fluid level may be helpful. At this juncture I'm only addressing the tractor. The loader and hoe are an entirely separate system. Their is one filter in the Rt side of the transmission under the floor board / round cover with 3 bolts and one in a housing where the transmission hydraulic lines come together/ a bolt on one end in the center holds it in place, sorry I do not know its exact location but following the hydraulic lines you should be able to find it. If you do this first pull the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission/ be ready to capture 8+/- gallons of oil, I'm not sure on the exact amount. The oil fill location is a 1" plug on the right side of the transmission above the floor board, behind where your foot would be located, oil should be level with the bottom of the plug threads. The filter in the transmission is a micro screen and can be cleaned by chemicals or with boiling water and soap. The main blockage will be a translucent wax collected on the micro screen from the oil and needs to be removed. A simple wash with gas/ diesel ect. will not be effective in cleaning out the wax. Test the filter before and after cleaning, stand it up on end and pour in oil comparing flow rates before and after. I had filter that would retain oil for 15 minutes, it all depends on the blockage of the micro screen. Now the filter in the other housing may be cleaned in the same way as the transmission or may not be cleanable, I leave it up to your discretion. Now a question, does the power steering seem hard to turn? If so let me know as their is a proportioning valve that may need cleaning. Also the serial number of your tractor would be helpful in the future, their should be a plate on the RT side of the engine with. Again if you have any questions, please feel free to ask. Sorry this post has gotten so long.
dodgeaspen
Member
I have the same tractor but with a diesel engine. Not the easiest to find parts but it makes a fine yard/chore machine. A couple notes- the clutch you are pressing is the hydraulic clutch and the actual mechanical clutch is disengaged by the long thin lever to the right of the one you are pressing. I've only ever used this for starting in really cold weather to decouple the transmission hydraulics.
Does the same delay exist when moving the lever from H (or L) directly to reverse? You don't need the cutch to do this and this may help point to the problem. To be honest I rarely ever use my clutch on this machine and I often just go from H/L to R to N. One reason for this is sometimes I need reverse to help it stop since the brakes are sooooo terrible on this model.
Does the same delay exist when moving the lever from H (or L) directly to reverse? You don't need the cutch to do this and this may help point to the problem. To be honest I rarely ever use my clutch on this machine and I often just go from H/L to R to N. One reason for this is sometimes I need reverse to help it stop since the brakes are sooooo terrible on this model.
I appreciate all the good information. I didn't drop out or loose interest. I had to prepare for and give a class on blacksmith/science at my forge shop. That's behind me now. It seems that with that effort, I missed a window of nice weather here in upstate NY. We are back in the deep freeze again but next week sounds better.
Jo Bird said it would be useful to have the serial number of the machine. The plate shows 2010 W 18413. Also about the power steering; for the little I have used the machine, it seems fine. With the information on how the transmission operates, I'll try some of the things suggested. For now I plan to just top off the fluid. The engine oil is down a bit and should probably be changed along with the filter. How much oil is needed?
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy