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1965 JD 4020 frostplug

B

BarryRanch

Member
So yesterday my tank heater, the factory coolant heater AR42326, burned out. Priced out a new Ar42326, $240 bucks, ouch. I was never impressed with that heater. I was wondering if there's a frost plug I can add to a 65 4020. Also do oil heaters work, will it warm the whole block? I was told they break down the oil. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks- BarryRanch
 
Just hang a Kats in place of the jd one. We switched because of the price too, 25 years and no complaints, 68 4020. I've heard the oil heaters just cook the oil. Might have had two go bad it that time and for the price keep one on hand.
 
I generally don't like "tank heaters" hanging off of the side of my tractors, unless it's a deal where it has to be a BIG heater so a bitter cold engine will start in a n hour or two.

However, IIRC, it's the only option for your 4020, as there are no Welch plugs in the sides of the block.

A replacement element is available for about a hundred bucks (AR42883).

However, since you seem unsatisfied with the heater's performance I wonder if the check valve in the bottom of the aluminum housing could be crudded up or the fitting in the coolant drain port in the lower block, slowing coolant flow, making for poor heating, and shortening the the elements or thermostat.

That being said, I have two 4020's at the present time with aftermarket tank heaters, one KATS and one Zerostart.

They are available for between $50 and $100 from many sources on the 'net.

<img src = "https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61JyGEFA%2B%2BL._SX355_.jpg">
 
Go buy a Kats 1000 watt tank heater.( Use the 1500w one if you do not leave the tractor plugged in for several hours) You do not have any freeze plugs to put in a block heater in. The tank heaters work fine IF installed correctly. You need to under stand they "pump" the water using natural thermal cycle to do it.

The one fitting on the tank heater has a check ball/valve built into it. This needs to go on the bottom and is the one hooked to the side of the block. Either teed into the block drain or just replacing the drain. The other hose needs to go to the thermostat housing. The tank should be mounted vertically, as straight up and down as you can get it. Then make sure your hoses do not have dips in them. You want a smooth uphill flow to the top of the block.

YOU can buy the complete Kat 1000W tank heater with the fittings for $50 at several online retailers. TSC and other farm stores would have them for just a little more.
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Where can I find some of those red ones you have pictured? I always liked them because the bottom fitting comes out the side so it fits the tractor better than the Kats one that comes strait out the bottom. Tom
 
I use a unit very similar to this on my older 4020 and it works fine. I have found out if you crack the radiator cap to the first notch it works much better and faster. There are tons of these units out there working every winter. I've used the 1000 and 1500 watt unit and both will do the job. Just depends on how much of a hurry you are in. For overnight use the 1000 watt unit is just fine. I think mine is a 1500 because when I went to buy it at the local farm store that is what they had left. Mike
 
I disagree with going to the thermostat housing. I have seen several like that where the hot water opens the thermostat and circulates to the radiator instead of warming the head and block. I have a service call next week to correct one set up like that. Run the outlet from the heater to a core plug on the right side of the head like the original probably was. As someone else said, just install the new one in place of the old one. I always use the 1500 watt heaters.
 
Our 4010 will start right up after an hour with the 1500 Watt unit at 0 degrees F as long as it is out of the wind and has 15W40 oil in the crankcase.
 
My diesel 4020 has an 850 Watt tank heater and it starts well plugged in over night at -25? in a cold shed out of the wind.
 
Cliff I have installed more of them recently on the JD Mannheim tractors and those you go to the thermostat housing. Your correct on the JD 4020. IRC the JD 4010 is different. either way just keep the hoses from having air lock pockets in them.
 
Tom: Kats also have the aluminum ones with the fitting out the side too. Look at my earlier reply and I have one pictured.
 
Is AR42326 the entire kit or just the element. The element used to be available separate from the kit. The foot valve in the bottom of the can gets sludged up with sediment and won't allow sufficient flow through it. This causes the element to overheat and burn out.
 
I saw it happen once on a 2940 too but I agree on the utility tractors there are not as many options. There is usually two plugs in the LH side of the block that work for a heater. One is the drain plug and the other is about 5 inches above the drain. Most newer ones have the screw in element heater.
 
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