I am considering buying a 4040 4x4. The guy says the switch is out that activates the 4x4.How can I tell if its the switch or something major? What else should I watch out for?I own a 1520 and 2 3020 s but I am not very familiar with newer tractors. Thanks in advance for any help/advice you may have.
 
If it"s a hydraulic 4 wheel drive, it not a good unit,, in fact the drive is worthless,, if you want a true wheel drive go to a 50 series...
 
Geez Lee,you're really moving up in the world. First a cab on one of the 3020s,now a 4040 FWA? Doggone,you're gonna get so uptown you'll stop speaking to me. lol
 
Can be that or any other electrical problem. Sometimes the wire is unplugged at clutch because wheel motor is bad. Plug it in and oil will gush out popoff valve on wheel if that's the case.
Not completely worthless for loader use etc. but is hydro and not positive as mechanical drive for ground work.
Tractor can be US market or European. Many more Europeans were sold. Will have 359T engine if European. Will have more HP and use more fuel than US 404.
4040S was only European and more rare and weird. Might be harder to find parts.
 
Randy Ive actually thought about calling you to use some of your knowledge. I could use a tractor with a little more hp and I had considered an 1850. The worse thing about it is every time I mention an Oliver I get a dirty look from my wife.lol She likes Deere and IH but I might get her to be accepting lol. Her favorite to drive is the deere 1520. I ran on the 4040 worth the money which made me suspect of it. I thought it might make a good one to drive in my old age lol.Guess Ill be ok though grandpa drove a 560 farmall till he was 86. Hope I dont get shot for mentioning other brands here.lol Thanks for the help everyone the knowledge on this site is so awesome!
 
I bought this 4040 new. I loved that tractor but I just plain wore it out. Some people complain about the fuel use per horsepower,but I didn't think it was all that bad. Mine didn't have FWA though,so I don't know anything about that. If you had to run it in 2 wheel all the time,they were a nice tractor as far as I'm concerned.
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I had another thought Lee. If the price was right and the tractor was nice otherwise,could you find a two wheel drive front axle in a bone yard and make a swap?
 
Randy I thought about the front axle swap, maybe someone will chime in on what it would take to accomplish such a swap.
 
Ooh yes you can swap out the axles but why go through that extra expense,, unless you have a real "good" deal going on,, the HFWA axles are only worth scrap price and you will have near $1,000 in the replacement axles...
 
Jim I really appreaciate your answer. So if I understand correctly, the whole axle wouldnt have to be swapped just the knees and spindles? If thats the case I may get serious about this thing.By the way how can you tell an american 4040 from the european version?
 
The guy is asking 13,500 so it seems reasonable but Im not sure what these tractors usually sell for. I dont usually look at tractors that "new". The newest one I own is a 1972 1520. I would have to drive about 2 and1/2 hours to look at it so I am trying to find out as much as possible before traveling.
 
(quoted from post at 13:37:04 12/12/13) By the way how can you tell an american 4040 from the european version?

Serial number plus European model should have parking brake,license plate light and a some other distinguishing options.
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The europeon 4040 will have a 359T motor the seat will be spring suspended,the serial # will not be on back,there will be a black handle that is a brake.I bought one of these w/HFWA in Wyoming a year ago and the JDservice manager went and looked and had to go back after I told him what to look for as serial# was behind loader mount.The HFWA is best when on a rare tractor and [not] used.This tractor has worked out well for the buyer.The 50 series W/MFWD is a whole different beast and the europeons have lights on front and also several differences.TheHFWA adds about $4K to a 20 series and almost deducts from 40 series
 
Tell him if it is just simply the switch to go get one and fix it and once the FWA works you will come look at it !

Otherwise if it is a hyd. FWA can't you just run it as a 2 wd unit as is ? just reduce price accordingly.
 
No need to swap front ends if it doesn't work. Just use it as is unless you don't like the larger wheels. You won't have to worry about breaking a spindle like the regular one.
 
I wonder how the similar appearing hydraulic assist on a combine works so well. Yet the hydraulic assist on the tractors was so feeble ?
 
It's because of the hydraulic supply,the hydrostatic transmission in a combine can spike up to 7,000PSI and a lot of flow, the tractor pump will do 2500 psi on a good day and maybe 15-18 Gallons per minute,,not near enough to make things happen...
 
JD must have used better seals etc in the combine/forage harvestor hydraulic axles ?
According to the hydraulic calculations. The Deere hydraulic assist could at best make 20HP both wheels combined.
 
In my area 4wds were and still are required for holding back when working down a steep bank. The hydraulic 4wds were lethal as not only did they fail to hold back - they actually pulled you down hill leading to a run away. I now have a mechanical 4wd on a 730D - best tractor I have ever used on steep ground - recent posts on continued availability of spares makes me wonder how long I will be able to keep it going.
 
Silage choppers also used the same setup and it worked fine but as stated the hydro supplied more oil, more pressure, and had more oil capacity resulting in less heat.
 
According to the book. A hydrualic assist 4040 was equipped with the 65cm3 series 2000 pump. Rated for 39.5gpm at 2300rpm.
Even under ideal conditions the front wheels could not muster more than 44HP. Probably 2/3 that in actuality. The engine load on the pump would be up to 61HP.
 
The drive is picked up from the lower transmission shaft and there is a bevel gear box just to the rear of the flywheel. It was built in conjunction with Roadless Traction as a prototype many years ago - they went out of business soon after so it remains the only one. It is for work on the gear selectors at the moment - I will post some photos when it comes back out.
 
No a standard lower shaft was used - photos difficult right now as tractor is in for overhaul - I would be very pleased to post photos on this site if this sort of thing is of interest. The background to this project is that a number of British companies specialised in 4wd conversions from the First World War up to late 20th century. This was the last development undertaken by Roadless who by that time were known as Jewells.
 

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