4020 Hydraulic Pump pipes

jsborn · Oct 4, 2013

I have a early (1964) 4020 Synro, Diesel, wide adjustable front end. The output pipe on the main pump was replaced years ago with a hose and is now leaking due to wear and rubbing on the frame. My question is is there an easy way to get to the fitting at the pump or do I need to lower the front end frame to access the pump. I can get to the fitting but there is not much room for a wrench.

Any tricks of the trade or suggestions would be helpful.

If the front end has to come off can it just be lowered or does it need to be removed completely?

Also does any one have a source for and/or the specs.( ie. wall thickness, id , etc.) for the 3/4 inch and 3/8 inch steel tubing used on these tractors. I have a flair tool and can get a bending tool just need a source for the material as I would like to put it back as close to original as possible.

Cliff Nelson · Oct 4, 2013

I have replaced those pipes with the front end on the tractor. Need an angle head open end wrench. It is a tight space to work. The problem comes if the elbow fitting is not lined up and needs to be turned or the o-ring replaced. That can be done with a crowfoot on an extension bar through a hole in the frame. With the right tools it is doable. Make sure the pipes are clamped properly at the radiator brace and over the engine to prevent vibration stress.

Tx Jim · Oct 4, 2013

You could remove fuel tank & radiator and replace line from above or possibly remove frame rail. I think you would need to move frt axle out of the way to access tubes.

jsborn · Oct 4, 2013

(quoted from post at 08:40:43 10/04/13)
You could remove fuel tank & radiator and replace line from above or possibly remove frame rail. I think you would need to move frt axle out of the way to access tubes.

How big a job is removing the front end ? From what I can see with a quick glance it is 4 bolts and the tie rods. Am I missing something.

Any suggestions on a source for the pipe? Mother Deere has them still available in their parts book but they seem to be made of Gold or at least they are priced that way :lol: .

jsborn · Oct 4, 2013

(quoted from post at 08:35:45 10/04/13)
I have replaced those pipes with the front end on the tractor. Need an angle head open end wrench. It is a tight space to work. The problem comes if the elbow fitting is not lined up and needs to be turned or the o-ring replaced. That can be done with a crowfoot on an extension bar through a hole in the frame. With the right tools it is doable. Make sure the pipes are clamped properly at the radiator brace and over the engine to prevent vibration stress.

Thanks that is what I was thinking also. I may try pulling the front end as I could then clean and inspect everything a bit while its apart but we will have to see.

Thanks again for your advise.

Tx Jim · Oct 4, 2013

(quoted from post at 08:54:16 10/04/13)
How big a job is removing the front end ? From what I can see with a quick glance it is 4 bolts and the tie rods. Am I missing something.

Any suggestions on a source for the pipe? Mother Deere has them still available in their parts book but they seem to be made of Gold or at least they are priced that way :lol: .

I always unbolted the bracket from steering motor that tie rods attached to. This made a total of eight bolts to remove frt axle, Be sure and support frt of tractor VERY CAREFULLY.

tim s · Oct 4, 2013

You can remove the tie rods, take the 2 3/4" bolts out of the front and screw 2 long bolts in ,,I use 12" bolts,,,then remove the 2 5/8" rear bolts and jack the front end up letting the 2 long bolts hold the axle in position...."Don't" remove the fuel tank.....it is not the way to go,,they are a PITA to get back in right...

Mike M · Oct 4, 2013

I'm sure they are high priced. Way back when the previous owner thought so too, thus the hose.

But remember any part you can buy off the shelf is still a better buy then a part you can't even get at any price.

I'd try and find a good used one. There should be some around.

coonie minnie · Oct 5, 2013

I've used the method Cliff describes below. It
was a lot easier and faster to modify a wrench
than it was to take the front end off. I used to
try to replace those lines with steel, but also
I've learned that the hydraulic hose method can be
just as reliable. Some armor around the outside
of the hose is key to making them last.

If you do replace the steel line, make sure ALL
the metal clamps are in place to hold it. Yours
are likely gone if a hose has been installed.
These are a requirement with the line to keep it
from vibrating and cracking.

jsborn · Oct 5, 2013

Thanks to everyones help. I will probably try it Cliff's way first and if that doesn't work for me I will start removing the front end.

Like some have said I know I could use hose as the previous owner did but I would like to bring the tractor back to the way it was built at the beginning if at all possible. Just may not be possible in some cases. I am still looking for a place to buy the steel pipe in raw form so if anyone knows or hears of a place to order it PLEASE let me know.

Thanks again and rest assured I will be back with more Questions.

D- · Oct 5, 2013

If you are talking about the
pressure line going back
above the right side under the
hood you are getting wrong
advice.
Support the tractor with a
jack. Remove the RH side
frame. Only the rear
mounting bolt has to be
removed from front axle
support. Pull the frame out
and you are there.
Don't assume you can make
the pipe yourself it won't fit.
Buy a new one.

4020 Hydraulic Pump pipes

jsborn

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Cliff Nelson

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Tx Jim

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jsborn

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jsborn

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Tx Jim

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tim s

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Mike M

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coonie minnie

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jsborn

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D-

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