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60 Temperature Readings

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Fred from MO

05-10-2012 07:43:50

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In the past I have posted about questioning the temperature readings on my new temp guage. The tractor had never had a working temp guage so i had nothing to base my opinion on. After a fresh engine rebuild the 60 would peg the guage at 230 when I had the brush hog on it and moving through tall grass. I did borrow a pyrometer from a buddy of mine and wound up taking readings. At a guage temperature reading = 200 F, here is the surface temperature of various components of the tractor. Water Pump = 190F, Lower Radiator Tank 196F, Lower Radiator Fins = 132 F, Upper radiator Fins = 147F, Upper Radiator Tank = 192 F, Left Side of head = 225F, Left Side of Block by spark plug = 219F, Left Side Exhaust Manifold area = 536 F, Upper Water Pipe = 225 F, Right Side Head = 245 F, Right Side Block by Spark Plug = 238 F, Right Side Exhaust Manifold (both exhaust ports combine here)= 622 F.

Im wondering if the radiator is transfering the heat out effectivly? It did not look plugged when I had it drained. The tractor has plenty of power. I used to mow in 2nd and possibly 3rd. Now with the fresh engine I can mow in 4th without any problems other than after a while (40-50min) the heat builds up in the engine and pegs the temperature gauge. So Im left with these questions 1) am I taxing the cooling system by mowing in too high of gear? 2) Is the radiator restricted/plugged? 3)Or are all these readings normal? I do have the old style cooling system with the thermostat in the bottom of the radiator where it used to have the shutter mechanism.

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tlock0331

05-13-2012 08:51:48

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Re: 60 Temperature Readings in reply to Fred from MO, 05-10-2012 07:43:50

Fred,

I have been following your posts about your 60, and it looks real nice, lot nicer than mine haha

If this helps - my 60, all original, will pull a 5' brush hog in overgrown pasture in 3rd and wont hardly get to 160, gauge wise, but what i experienced in my 720G, that i had to put a radiator in that came from my parts 70's was this....the fins were straight and clear, so i pressure washed it and sorted flushed it in the shop and water would flow out as fast as it was going in so i figured it was fine and the water coming out didnt look real bad, but when i hooked my chisel on pulling in 3rd gear i could go 30-45 minutes and the temp gauge would just climb. I could put my hand on one side of the radiator bare handed and couldnt touch the other side. So i tried flushing again, same result. So I pulled the radiator and tore off the tanks, and in the upper tank is where i found 2 hand fulls of rust/scale that was more of a real fine grit like a sand consistency and when wet just clumped and it wouldnt flow through the tubes, nor would it come out of the top of the tank when i had turned it upside down and flushed prior to putting it back in. After scraping all that out, cleaning the core and light air pressure through the tubes, put it back together and now, 3rd gear chiseling deep or running a 16' disk it wont hardly get to 190 on long 1/4 mile pulls.

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pjmo

05-10-2012 16:46:49

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Re: 60 Temperature Readings in reply to Fred from MO, 05-10-2012 07:43:50

will she idle and not get hot? for an hour or 2? If she will do that you don't have a problem. She just needs to be run. I think it's good too let them idle down and cool off before shutting them down in the shade if she's hot/overly warm [if you can], but you need too watch the oil pressure doesn't drop below the M ie. adjust it up if it needs it.[sae 30?][idle her up]I think the book says 600rpm for slow idle. drain the radiator into 2 buckets through a screen is it clean? put it back if it is. if she hasn't had a radiator in recent memory, but a chemical flush? change or check the thermostat that its opening. can you see through the radiator is it 1,2,3 or 4 cores?is there dirt or seeds plugging the fins, are the fins bent? is the radiator passing air good? water too? did you find stop leak evidence or red/black pepper? when you had it apart? have it boiled out at the radiator shop? YT has a copper 4 core replacement I think. are the blades sharp on the brushog? If you mow in 3rd does she heat up? how hot was the day you were mowing? 90 + could mow in the cool of the evening instead of the heat of the day. If the temps over 140 don't open the radiator!!! and never work on any motor hot!!!!what ever you do don't get under it if the hose blows it will scauld you....burn ward at the hospital! if you let her idle 550/600 rpm she should cool down too under 140 in not very long 20/30min. is there a possibility of a mouse nest or muddabers or a rag in the pipes? is there good water flow at the top of the radiator from the top water return pipe? were you just knocking the heads off the grass? are were you cutting it short? being that you just worked on her the radiator is full of water/antifreeze? the cap is good? And being that you just rebuilt her she is tight and will be tight/hot[overly warm] till you break her in sufficently. the first 500 miles or 10/20 hours or what ever the operaters manual suggests for a fresh motor. I've herd it said that a 60 is the best tractor that John Deere ever made and tuff, will run strong for a long time. I watched Robert's carb repair cd and on the preluge of the cd you hear their tractor running perhaps 700/750rpm not wide open these are lugging motors.... the last of the slow talken John Deere. Robert puts that carb on his test A and it dynos 34+- hp @ 300rpm if i remember correctly. At 6/700rpm you have longjevity compared too anything running at 1100 rpm or faster and perhaps even comparitve fuel econimy. Unfortunatly too get 540 pto rpm you have too open the throdle way up...Gearup,idle down, and keep her sharp! be carefull, be safe, be happy, and may God keep you in the palm of his hand pj

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buickanddeere

05-10-2012 17:07:31

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Re: 60 Temperature Readings in reply to pjmo, 05-10-2012 16:46:49

Any engine will last longer reved up and operating at 70-90% throttle vs. running slower at 100% throttle and lugging. High torque loads and high thrust loads cause more wear than the number of rotations.

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teddy52food

05-10-2012 10:23:02

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Re: 60 Temperature Readings in reply to Fred from MO, 05-10-2012 07:43:50

If it is only cooling 15 degrees from top to bottom, the radiator needs cleaning.

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buickanddeere

05-10-2012 09:26:06

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Re: 60 Temperature Readings in reply to Fred from MO, 05-10-2012 07:43:50

Seems odd the lower tank could be warmer than the upper tank? Somebody has likely been pouring tap water containing minerals into that cooling system for 57 years. Even a thin layer of minerals or even oil will reduce heat transfer to the air .

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Fred from MO

05-10-2012 11:10:21

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Re: 60 Temperature Readings in reply to buickanddeere, 05-10-2012 09:26:06

B&D Thats possible. Iwent back in my archive of pictures and looked at these before I removed the block. I did get some 3" by 3" flakey rust "shale" come out. The upper water pipe was scaley too. I cleaned those out the best that I could, but now Im guessing the radiator is restricted to the point where the core should be replaced. I guess I will limp it along until next winter keeping an eye on the gauge when mowing. If its not under load and just tooling along then it runs 170-200F range. Its only when worked good it gets up there.

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Mike M

05-11-2012 19:59:22

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Re: 60 Temperature Readings in reply to Fred from MO, 05-10-2012 11:10:21

You can remove the upper and lower water pipes and back flush that core with a water hose booster withan air nozzle.

Also take a light and see if you can see it from the other side of the core or if the fins are packed full.

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Fred from MO

05-10-2012 07:49:36

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Re: 60 Temperature Readings in reply to Fred from MO, 05-10-2012 07:43:50

Also, I believe by the design of the exhaust manifold where exhuast gasses pass from Left to Right and eventually out the exhaust pipe leads to the higher head and exhaust manifold temperatures on the right side of the tractor (pulley side). I am curious of those who have seen cracked heads on the 2 cylinders if they crack on the right side more than the left.?

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Mike M

05-10-2012 08:30:35

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Re: 60 Temperature Readings in reply to Fred from MO, 05-10-2012 07:49:36

Pull the gauge out and stick it in a pan of water and start to boil it and see what it reads. Also have another thermometer in there too.

My uncle had a 620 start to get hot ,but he didn't change anything and knew what it did before. The rad. was not too old either. I looked down in it with some of the water drained out and it looked like the tubes were starting to plug. I was able to take enough stuff off and backflush it from below with a water hose and boosted it with an air nozzle in there too and got alot of rusty flakes to come out.

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