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This is what I did when i restored my MT... I have seen many questions regarding welded steering wheels and slipping steering shafts with the M & MT's. I believe I have found a very viable alternative. This solution doesn't require any welding and keeps the view of the steering wheel 100% original...the only drawback is the steering shaft now becomes stationary, meaning it will not slide in & out [Like all the other Deere's]. When following these instructions, please refer to page 50-4 in the M series JD Parts Catalog [PC-848]. Remove the Hood to access the steering tube [AM 438T]. Then you will have to disengage the Lock knob, [AM 439T] if yours even works, so the steering shaft [ M 589T]can slide/come all the way out...for some of you, this means removing the wiring or cracking an old weld or some other home remedy. Once the steering shaft can slide back and forth, move the steering shaft out far enough so you can line the groove-pin [25H 95A] with the hole that is in the steering-tube [the hole in the steering tube is very close to the instrument panel]. hint - turn your steering wheel, which will turn the steering tube, to make the hole in the steering tube face straight up. Now you need to knock out the groove-pin...it may take some heat like mine did. Be persistent to get this groove pin out…Now that the groove-pin is out, you can slide your steering shaft all the way out. Towards the end of the shaft you can see a hole where the groove pin [1/4" X 7/8"] previously resided. Put the Steering shaft back in the EXACT WAY it came out. Line up the steering shaft so you can see the groove-pin hole back in line with the hole in the steering tube. This next step is very important. Your steering shaft/wheel should be in an extended mode right now, what you want to do is measure the exact distance of the exposed telescopic steering shaft, which should be from the steering wheel to where the steering shaft enters the Steering support [AM 803T]…the distance should be approximately 7 inches & 7/8 inch…now, when you now slide the steering shaft all the way back in, the groove-pin hole in the steering shaft slides back exactly the same distance, 7 & 7/8 inches…so, measure [whatever yours is] the distance you come up with from the center of the hole in the steering tube, and that is where you will drill a new hole in the steering tube. The idea is to drill a new hole that is centered 7 & 7/8 inches further away from the old hole…NOTE – the holes must be perfectly aligned. I used a 9/32 steel drill bit after I used a punch to get the hole started. Since the Steering tube is hollow, it doesn’t long to drill through both sides. Note, make sure the steering shaft is pulled-out some so you do not drill into it… Once the new hole is drilled, you can now push the steering shaft all the way back in, and the holes should now align [hole you drilled with the groove-pin hole in the steering shaft]. Now you can take a 1 & ½” X ¼ carriage bolt, align the holes and push the bolt through the steering tube and steering shaft, then put a lock nut washer and nut on the other side and tighten her up. Now your steering shaft is snug, it doesn’t slide out when you pull on the steering wheel and fall on your axx. If you want a final picture of the product, you can e-mail me and I will send you a picture of the final product. If you ever want to go back to the sliding shaft, you can just reverse the process and the hood covers everything…good luck,
tstex
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