2020 engine overhaul

I've posted a couple of times in this forum about the coolant dump on my 2020 and moving it to a suitable work location. I finally received the TM-1044 manual today and was reading thru several chapters on the engine but have a question or two prior to tearing into it.

It would be pretty difficult to pull the engine in the barn so I would prefer to do an in-frame overhaul if possible. That said, I was planning to drop the pan, crank, rods, pistons, etc from the bottom then pull the head and remove the liners. I know there's more to it than this but is that basic sequence correct?

In addition, since it looks like this engine was never overhauled, I'm concerned about how hard it will be to remove the liners and was wondering if they might be stuck to the point of needing a hydraulic press to move. Of course, I suppose I could turn a piece of wood and press them from the bottom with the floor jack if necessary but I'm hoping that won't be necessary.

Any comments or suggestions are appreciated...
 
When I do an In-frame O/H I jack the liners out sorta like your thinking, I have a solid shaft with a knotch on one side to help keep from draging on the block as it goes by, if your planning on changeing the mains the front one will be a problem to deal with because of the idler nut will be in the way,,but do-able..
 
Tim,
You can't pull the crank without splitting tractor. Front and rear main seals can't be changed either. If engine is really shot you should pull engine out. 2020's split pretty easy.
John
 
That's for sure John, and I don't like to do in-frames anyway,not only do I dislike getting oil in my eye, you can't do a good complete job. In this case I think his crank is most likely O'kay, and a bearing change should be all that is needed on the crank,,I'm thinking he has a bad liner, and an in-frame would work out in this case, since he has limited ability and resources,,,his ability was determined when he put oil in the radiator to move it to the shed next door....
 
I've split a couple of Fords in the past but my hoist currently has a large lathe and drill press sitting under it so to split the JD would be a chore where it sits now and there's no way to get the engine moved to the stand. Of course, I could always put more oil in the radiator and drive around to the machine shop... :lol:

Many thanks for the suggestions...I'll let y'all know how it turns out.
 
I'd be amazed if you could pop those sleeves out with a floor jack. I just had to pop one out of a 1020. Once you break the seal,they lift right out,but breaking it is an issue. I tried a jack,thought it would save a few minutes,but it just lifted the tractor. I made a puller many years ago. It's not that hard to do.
 
Yes,when your not doing these things every day it's a bit un-handy to work one in..The oil in the radiator still tickles me :),,and it's all in fun and helping each other out...
 
Yes on a lighter tractor that can be a problem..I have backed a larger tractor up to the front and chained off to it before years ago,,it's better than having a big heavy girl friend sit on the front...
 
I hope you mean somebody elses big heavy girlfreind. I don't have one of those. I prefer a home made sleeve puller. LOL
 
(quoted from post at 11:32:08 02/16/11) Yes,when your not doing these things every day it's a bit un-handy to work one in..The oil in the radiator still tickles me :),,and it's all in fun and helping each other out...

If the radiator was filled with trans oil the trans oil must be around the outside of the liners which should make removing liners a little easier. I've heard of wet liners driven out with a block of wood and a Big Hammer.
 
If it hasn"t been apart in forever, I would pull the engine and at least check, if not replace the balance shafts and bushings...these tend to give problems with age..if one of the bushings gets loose and spins in the block (seen this happen several times) you are in for some major headaches and $$$$ too...
 
Ive use a jack to push liners out also a trick that has worked for me is to put pressue on the liner but not enough to lift the tractor and then take a hammer and tap on the top of the liner and the inside of it usually they pop right out. sometimes you have to tap from the bottom up also. good luck with your project.
 
I know money and time is tight but......Do you have enough time and money to re-overhaul the engine in a few weeks or months?
Pulling the crank, hot tanking the block and running rifle cleaning brushes down every oil passage. Will find all manner of bad things you will be glad to see gone.
 
(quoted from post at 07:45:33 02/17/11) It's better to a job right than to explain why you didn't.....

You fellers are starting to convince me. Probably the best thing is for me to set the lathe and press on my hay trailer then go ahead and pull the engine. I'm pretty picky about wanting to do things right and I'd prefer to only fix it once.
 
You won't regret it, block up under the clutch housing, unbolt the front end at the engine block roll it out of the way(it will be a bit ornery to handle a loader would be helpful),,then set the engine out of the clutch housing,,if you were closer you could set in the pick-up and send it over to my shop..I would re-do it and test fire it for you on the bench...
 
If I remember correctly all 2020 liners are silver solderes to a steel plate that rests between the block and head. If this is correct they all have to come out as an assembly.
Bill.
 
(quoted from post at 23:07:56 02/24/11) If I remember correctly all 2020 liners are silver solderes to a steel plate that rests between the block and head. If this is correct they all have to come out as an assembly.
Bill.

You are thinking of the earlier line of tractors. The 1010 and 2010.
 
No, Your thinking of "2010"s",The 2020 liners are individual, and they normally come out rather easy.
 

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