12V REGULATOR questions/issues - on my 1948 JD B tractor.

[b:f0a1fead6c]Anybody know how to differentiate the difference between a 12V positive grounded regulator and a 12V negatively grounded regulator? [/b:f0a1fead6c] Is there even such a thing, or am I crazy?

Here's my situation... [b:f0a1fead6c]I have a 1948 JD B tractor.[/b:f0a1fead6c] Now originally it was a 6V positive grounded tractor, as we all know. That is no more. It has been [b:f0a1fead6c]fully converted to a 12V system [/b:f0a1fead6c]now, and is currently hooked up as [b:f0a1fead6c]POSITIVE ground. [/b:f0a1fead6c] Why? No clue, I didn't do it. Perhaps because it was easier and required less changing of wires around? Don't know.

Anyhow...

Delco starter is 12V, Delco generator is 12V, and tractor has a Magneto, so no problems there. Wiring is connected properly (set up as positive ground still) as the ammeter reads correctly when I turn on headlights (shows a draw) and if I "force" the generator to charge by full-fielding it, it shows that it charges (+ amperage).

[b:f0a1fead6c]My problem is that the charging system just doesn't work properly.[/b:f0a1fead6c] All of my wires are correctly attached at the generator/regulator from what I can tell from wiring schematics. [b:f0a1fead6c]The generator puts out around 32+ volts when full fielded.[/b:f0a1fead6c] But when regulated, it doesn't seem to put out anything - or very little (to be honest, I forget).

Regulator is (was) brand spankin' new back when 12V generator was rebuilt a few years ago. Other than a little weathering on the outside of it (from tractor being outside too much this past year), it still looks like new.
Now, since I didn't personally do the upgrade to 12V system, I don't know if the regulator is a 12V pos or 12V neg regulator.
Regulator doesn't seem to have any real ID numbers on it. I know it's a Borg-Warner brand component, and the only numbers found on it are printed to the lower bracket and are: R-199, 5HD, and 4CD. No clue if they have any significance or not, but they don't mean anything to me.

Can't say that charging system has ever worked since I got the tractor. I don't believe it has, because every so often, (like every month or 3) I have to re-charge the battery with a battery charger. I don't use the tractor very often.

I've been told that a 12v (+) grounded and a 12v (-) grounded regulators are different and are NOT interchangeable. I'm not sure if that's true or not. If someone out there knows the facts on that, I'd sure be greatful!

[b:f0a1fead6c]I do know that my tractor's generator is currently polarized as a positively grounded system.[/b:f0a1fead6c]

I'm considering "flipping" my battery terminals around and re-polarizing my generator to negative ground so that I can see if my regulator will function properly when running as a negatively grounded system instead of positive, but I really would like some thoughts on this though before I do it.

Electrical parts aren't cheap (nor returnable) and I don't want to muck up anything any worse.

I've also found that when the tractor is running, the contacts on the BAT terminal side (inside the regulator) seem to "jump" or "flutter" almost constantly, (not sure why) but that seems out of the ordinary to me.

I also found that if I lightly push down on the contact on the "F" terminal side (opposite side of the "fluttering" contacts) I can get the voltage to increase and the regulator seems to allow current to flow to my battery and allow charging! Hmmm... strange.

Contact points inside the regulator are in good shape and not burnt or worn. Because I could, I did run some emery cloth through the points on both sides, just in case.

Additionally, I see that the contacts "gap" inside the regulator are adjustable. Anyone know what they should be set at, or where I could find out the specs? So far, I haven't dared touch them, nor do I plan to unless someone knows for 100% what they should be set at.
I wonder if I change the contact gap on the "F" terminal side closer together, if perhaps that would allow my regulated voltage output to increase or not?

Bottom line is that I know a fair amount about this stuff, but apparently not enough. Just enough to get myself a big fat headache - LOL!

Thanks for any help y'all can give... I've begun using the tractor more often and having a non-working charging system is a real P.I.T.A.!

Andy
 
There are indeed VR's intended for and labeled as POS Ground or NEG Ground while some can work at EITHER Polarity. Some (polarity issues) of it has to do with the coating on the relay contacts and other is the use of suppression diodes (which are of course polarity sensitive). If theres no supression diodes (not in most old VR's Ive seen) a VR can likely still work at the incorrect polarity but may not last as long as the relay contacts might burn carbon prematurely.

Like you I have no idea which VR you have so cant say if its problematic.

HOWEVER if you look at Para 5 of my Troubleshooting Procedure it can describe how to tell if non charging is a Genny versus a VR problem. If the genny is fine (see my tests) then non charging can be a VR problem or the VR isnt well grounded (BE SURE TO INSURE VR HAS A GOOD GROUND)

Good connections, good tight belt, good ground for genny and VR are a MUST

John T
John Ts Troubleshooting
 
I'd heard years ago that the reason for positive ground was related to the use of a magneto, (mabey the magneto works as a positive ground system, and would be at a conflict with a negative ground charging system)

--Walt--
 
Your best bet is to take the generator and regulator off and to someone who rebuilds them and has a test stand to run it on. If it does work then that's the best way to set them. If it doesn't work they can figure out why.
 
I would leave the gap as it is but increase the spring tention on the field coil points. This should be done with a voltmeter on the battery so you don't go too far & boil the acid out. I think 14 to 15 volts is close, depending on how fully charged the battery is.
 
Walt, the Mag IS NOT hooked in any way to the battery or charging system, they even work with non battery hand crank tractors ya know and as Teddy says each spark (on the direct drive mags) is opposite polarity anyway.

Years before they settled on neg ground some auto manufactureres thought there was less corrosion where frame members joined at one ground or the other

John T
 

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