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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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1962 2010 - Diesel in crankcase, leaking from throttle shaft

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Jim Fountain

09-10-2010 09:57:39




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I have a 2010 that has been dripping diesel from the throttle shaft on the injection pump for a long time. I am now seeing diesel in the crankcase. The tractor starts/runs great....

Can I fix myself? How hard is it? Suggestions?




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jdemaris

09-10-2010 16:09:03




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 Re: 1962 2010 - Diesel in crankcase, leaking from throttl... in reply to Jim Fountain, 09-10-2010 09:57:39  
Yes, if you have good mechanical skills, get your hands on a tech manual, and use it. Once the pump is off, it's an hour's work, start to finish for someone with experience. For someone doing it for the first time, even if it takes you 10 times as long, you're still way ahead.

Manuals available from many sources. Deere manual is SM-2045. It's around in PDF format on CD or download. Parts are easy to get and cheap.

In your case, you probably need a $15 seal kit and a $6 drive-bushing, along with a $8 special wrench.

I have the manuals on PDF (and in paper), but they are too big to upload from my satellite connection.

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Jim Fountain

09-14-2010 20:29:06




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 Re: 1962 2010 - Diesel in crankcase, leaking from throttl... in reply to jdemaris, 09-10-2010 16:09:03  
I have a JD 21 I&T Shop Service manual but I was reading on this site that this manual has errors in it regarding the R&R (pages 23 and 24). Can anyone fax (or PDF) me the correct instructions from a true JD shop manual?

Also, looking at the parts catalog I think I need the shaft o ring and seals (R460R and T11290). And the throttle shaft seal (T11927). Is this right? are there kits? I called John Deere..they don't sell the parts so where can you find them?

Thanks in advance.. Rookie here :)

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jdemaris

09-15-2010 05:41:28




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 Re: 1962 2010 - Diesel in crankcase, leaking from throttl... in reply to Jim Fountain, 09-14-2010 20:29:06  
Deere stopped reselling Stanadyne fuel injection parts 20 years ago.

The Deere #s would of been - 2 of T11290 shaft-seals(for pump driveshaft), and for the throttle shaft - 2 of T11915 orings and 2 of T15720 teflon washers.

The part # T11927 you mention has nothing to do with any of this. It is a hard metal part that never wears out.

Even back 20 years ago, those parts would not be ordered separately. You could buy the entire seal kit for that pump with all o-rings, washers, and seals for less then $20.

You can still buy the kit for less then $20. www.usdiesel.com US Diesel in Fort Worth Texas is a dealer and will ship and sell to anyone.
800-328-0037.

JDB seal kit - Stanadyne OEM # 24371 - Spaco # U24371 $12.10 last year, but probably went up a little.

You are going to need the injection pump manual, unless you're a lot smarter then I am.

As to errors in the IT manual? I don't know since I only have the factory manual for 1010s-2010s. I've never gone wrong yet though, with the ITs. I have just about every one ever printed EXCEPT for the 1010/2010 series.

To remove pump: Remove timing window. Rotate engine (by hand) counter-clockwise
as viewed from the flywheel end of engine. Do so until the two timing marks inside the
window-hole are lined up.

Turn off fuel, unhook all lines, linkage and pump mounting nuts. Then slide pump away
from engine.

To install pump: Turn pump driveshaft, if needed until the two timing marks in the
window hole are lined up. Make sure engine is on top-dead-center (TDC) of compression
stroke for #1 cylinder. Install pump. Turn engine over in reverse rotation (clockwise as
viewed from flywheel end), and then back counter-clockwise until pump timing marks are
in line again. Verify engine is at TDC. Note, this process eliminates timing gear backlash
for checking static timing. Tighten pump mounting nuts. When installing injection lines to
the pump with new steel washers, if the banjo-bolts are black, torque to 420 inch-pounds.
If they are cadmium plated, torque to 295 inch-pounds. When viewing the injection pump
from the outlet end, firing order is 1-3-4-2 moving from the #1 port that is marked.

After the engine is running, depending on specific pump model, load advance or speed
advance can be checked with a plastic timing window, if needed.

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