The 3020s used three different injection sysems - as far as the injection pumps go. Early had DB pumps with no timing advance, then the little C pumps, then DB or JDB again with timing advance.
Many later 3020s had converstion kits installed to get rid of the C pump and put on a DB style instead. That because parts were discontinued for the C pumps back late 1970s.I assume you've got the early DB pump. You HAVE to get it to pump fuel, regarsless of what else is going on. If you have fuel going in, but no fuel coming out to the injectors, you've probably got one of three possible problems. #1- the metering valve is stuck in "off" position after years of sitting. Very easy fix. Just pop the three-bolt cover off and make it move with a pair of needle-nose pliers. When all is right, that valve gets pulled into "run" mode via a spring. Thus, it can get stuck in "off" pretty easy. #2 - the plastic governor ring fall apart years ago and rendered the pump useless. If so, and nothing esle is wrong, needs around $30 in parts to fix. Very common problem. #3 - the pump isn't even turing inside. The DB pump is equipped with a "shear" type driveshaft. It is designed to snap in half if the injection pump turns too hard. Basically, it is a sort of metal "fuse." Take the little rectangular timing window off via the two little screws. Then crank the engine over and observe. Half of what you see in there MUST be rotating whenever the engine is cranking over. If not, the drive-shaft is broken.
| 
