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2 gaskets on the right hand exhaust manifold??

R

Ryan_289

Member
I was soaking my manifold bolts this morning on my 60 in prep for changing the manifold. There appears to be 2 gaskets stacked together on the right side of the exhaust port. Any particular reason for this?
 
IF ALLOWED TO RUN FOR A WHILE WITH A BLOWN OUT EXHAUST GASKET THE HEAD AND MANIFOLD ERODE TO THE POINT THAT TWO GASKETS ARE REQUIRED TO GET A GOOD SEAL.
 

Well that is the case it appears. The head is eroded down lower than the other exhaust and intake ports. Holding a straight edge across the head its about the thickness of a gasket lower. I broke two bolts off on the other side of the head and I tried welding the nuts on several times and thats just not going to work. Im going to go ahead and remove the head and take it to the machine shop. Will there be enough material on the head to surface everything down level so I dont have to use two gaskets?
 
If it is eroded seriously,it can be welded up then flat surfaced.
If you choose not to weld it up,and have to have .125 machined off of it,make sure your bolts don't bottom out,before you get a good squeeze on the gaskets.
 

I guess I will take the exhaust manifold with me to the machine shop and let them make the call. I could always use shorter bolts too.

What else should I have the machine shop do to the head while its there?

Do any of the parts suppliers sell individual gaskets? I dont need an entire gasket set, just the head and valve cover gasket. Deere wants 81 bucks for just the head gasket.
 
I have resurfaced several of them with no problems. If it is really really bad I weld them up with machinable nickle rod and then resurface.
Those broken bolts are best removed by boring them out with an end mill.Your allready going to be set up to resurface it. Make sure to stop when your past the bolt so you don't bore down into the water jacket. I had a 530 someone drilled down in too far with a hand drill and it was terrible to get to seal up the antifreeze leak.

I have also welded them up on the tractor and hand ground down checking with a straight edge.
Stuff wet rags in all the open ports first. Cover the ones you can with sheet metal to keep hot spalls from burning in them. I suck the slag and grindings out with a vacume before removing the rags too.

If you have the head off it is likely overdue for a valve job. I'd do one at this time.
 
If you have a machine shop worth even half its salt, they will be able to guide you on what needs to be done to the cylinder head. That's why we use a specialist shop - they have skills and equipment most of us will never have, nor will we ever need or want to have! Ask them to perform a total evaluation and then sit with them to agree on a scope of work. (PatB)
 
(quoted from post at 16:16:25 05/02/10) I have resurfaced several of them with no problems. If it is really really bad I weld them up with machinable nickle rod and then resurface.
Those broken bolts are best removed by boring them out with an end mill.Your allready going to be set up to resurface it. Make sure to stop when your past the bolt so you don't bore down into the water jacket. I had a 530 someone drilled down in too far with a hand drill and it was terrible to get to seal up the antifreeze leak.

I have also welded them up on the tractor and hand ground down checking with a straight edge.
Stuff wet rags in all the open ports first. Cover the ones you can with sheet metal to keep hot spalls from burning in them. I suck the slag and grindings out with a vacume before removing the rags too.

If you have the head off it is likely overdue for a valve job. I'd do one at this time.
Click to expand...

Ok im looking to fix this on the tractor. I ended up drilling out my broket bolts and retapping. What will I have to weld the port up with? WHat do I do about my bolt holes? Someone suggested using JB weld to smooth it out but wouldnt that just melt out?
 
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