1966 JD 110 won't charge

Good day,

My 12 yr old son has a '66 JD 110. The tractor has never charged correctly. I recently found a wiring schematic on the net for a 110 (would attach but dont know how). I recently rewired the tractor to match the schematic. when I went to start the tractor, I switched the key to the 'run position' and the starter started cranking. I stopped that problem by disconnecting a wire between the GEN terminal on the regulator to the starter side of the solenoid, but now when I get it running, it does not want to shut off. I am assuming some type of backfeed.

I have two main questions:

The starter / generator has two posts on it. The schematic shows one wire connected to the starter solenoid and the other shows a wire going to the "f" terminal of the voltage regulator. The posts on the starter / generator are not labelled. Can anyone verify that I do have the starter / generator wired correctly?

Secondly, the voltage regulator that is on it has (4) posts:

BAT , GEN , F, GND.

The wiring schematic has the following posts labelled:

BAT, GEN, F, L.

I am not sure I have the correct regulator on it due to the GND vs. L. Can anyone tell me if the regulator with the GND will work?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks. Scott[/img]

You can use a regulator without the "L" terminal as long as the rest of it is correct. If you've bought a new aftermarket regulator, be warned that many of them are useless. Does your regulator actually have a ground terminal, or is it just marked "G?"

The "G" terminal on the regulator stands for "GEN" and gets hooked to the "A" terminal on the starter-generator. "A" is usually a bigger diameter post and and closest to the engine block. Note that "G" usually has a wire that meets the "A" by being fastened to one big post on the starter relay. This is the post that is NOT hot all the time.

"F" terminal on the reg. gets hooked to "F" on the starter-generator. Usually the "F" post on the starter-gen is furthest from the engine.

"B" terminal on the reg gets hooked to battery postive and is hot all the time. Often it gets hooked to the other big post on the starter relay that is hot all the time and already hooked to the batter. If you have an amp-gauge, it gets stuck between the "B" terminal and the battery.

"L", if you have it, is a bypass terminal for loads other then battery charging, such as lights if you have them.

By the way, the correct regulator, or at least one of them, is the same that a Ferguson T035 tractor uses with a 12 volt system. They sell them here. If you ever have to buy one, make sure you get the one actually sold by TISCO and don't accept any other after-markets types. The ones they sell made by Arrow are worthless.

You can use a Deere AM30078 or a Briggs & Stratton # 295924 or a Delco 1118981 and 1118988, or a Prestolite 8-297, Massey Ferguson 1825-48-M91, 1825-48-M92, 1900-343-M91, and several IH Cub Cadet numbers.

Ok. Let me check my wiring against what you said. So if I dont have an "L" terminal, I am assuming I can hook the wire to the BAT terminal.

And to answer your question, the ground terminal is stamped GND.

If your regulator actually has a dedicated ground terminal, sounds like it's the wrong regulator? Hard to keep up with all the generic equivalents. Some are made as "convertable" to be used with both neg and pos ground. Does it also have the "G" or "GEN" terminal?

"L" terminal is a circuit that bypasses the internal regulator and allow allows some charge power to go to circuits OTHER then charging the battery. Usually just for headlights - or an 8-track tape player maybe? If you don't have lights and only use the gen for battery charging, no "L" is required.