(OT) Got me a new toy yesterday 20+5 GN trailer

alabamafrog

Well-known Member
I got me a 20’+5’ gooseneck trailer yesterday, it is a 2006 Larimore 14K with pop up dove tail.
I now have to get a 3rd ramp installed on it then replace all the old lights with new LED lights and add flood/work lights to the rear end and to the headache rack. Then maybe a few other little tweaks and customizations.
Its kinda neat how the dove tail pops up to make a 25’ flatbed.

Here are some cell shots of how it is now;

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(quoted from post at 13:50:52 01/20/10) Never saw one that big with the small axles and tires,easy to overload.
I’ve seen 35 footers with 2 7k axels before, and a lot of 25 footers with only 5K axles rated at 10K gross. 25 footers like this with 2-7K’s are very common, About ½ the trailers at the shows I go to are 25’ 14K.
An F-450 truck isn’t rated enough to pull a 14K trailer. My F-250 is only rated for around 10K.
 
10000 pound gross,then you have to deduct the weight of the trailer,it's part of the load.That probably puts you down around 8000 then.
 
Trailers with the floating rear are neat, but one has to be very careful with how you load it when the deck is level. It does not carry near the load as the balance of the trailer.
 
A collector up this way has a square deck on top of the gooseneck that fits his pop up tent with a ramp to walk down.

--Walt--
"Nice looking trailer"
 
What's the trailer rated at?

FYI My '01 F-250 is rated to pull up to 14K. My 5th wheel RV will weigh over 12K when loaded. The truck handles it with ease.
 
(quoted from post at 21:10:46 01/20/10) What's the trailer rated at?

FYI My '01 F-250 is rated to pull up to 14K. My 5th wheel RV will weigh over 12K when loaded. The truck handles it with ease.
It is a 14K trailer, 2 7K axles with 80 psi class E tires. You have to subtract the weight of the trailer from the gross weight to get the cargo weight but then you can add back in the weight that is transferred to the truck. The trailer should be capable of around 12K cargo then 1 or 2 K on the truck so it should be able to carry near 14K. Any 2 of my tractors should be around 11-12K together.

As for the F-250 rated at 14K, that’s strange, I did a lot of research and even an F-350 aint rated for a 14K trailer, it would take a min of an F-450 and it had better not have any extra weight on it.
You have to take the GCWR then subtract the GVW or weight of the truck from the total combined rating.
My truck will handle the load with ease, however is it legal? What happens in the aftermath of a wreck?

Here is a page from the owner’s manual that came with my truck;

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I believe the 10,000# trailer weight is for a bumper/reciever hitch trailer. A 5th wheel/gooseneck trailer tow rating will be higher than that. Mike
 
(quoted from post at 06:56:06 01/21/10) I believe the 10,000# trailer weight is for a bumper/reciever hitch trailer. A 5th wheel/gooseneck trailer tow rating will be higher than that. Mike
If you read the note at the bottom of the manual page it says for 5th wheel to subtract GVW from GCWR, my truck weighs 8,000 so 18,000-8,000 = 10,000, which just happens to be the same as the bumper trailer rating.
So if I apply the same math to the rest of them an guess at the truck weights I get;

F-250 18-8 = 10K
F-350 20-9 = 11K
F-450 26-10 = 16K
F-550 26-12 = 14K

It don’t make no sense to me either, but lawyers and judges and juries are not logical either.
 
I can assure you that unless you have a big block you can get a lot more tractor on the trailer than that truck wants. Nice looking unit.
 
(quoted from post at 08:36:57 01/21/10) I can assure you that unless you have a big block you can get a lot more tractor on the trailer than that truck wants. Nice looking unit.
I’m sure you can get more weight on any trailer than the trailer or the truck can handle.

FYI;
Here are the specs on my truck, it’s a little more than a big block;

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(quoted from post at 09:31:04 01/21/10) The truck will pull it just remember you got to stop it as well!!
That’s a good point, that’s why I got drilled and slotted rotors on the truck….just kidding.
I plan to go thorough the trailer brakes and make sure they are in perfect condition before hauling with it. I also have a Prodigy P3 brake controller, which is way better than any other controller I have ever used. Theoretically the trailer brakes should stop the trailer and load so the truck only has to stop itself, theoretically. My truck also has a tow setting on the chip that makes the truck automatically downshift when slowing.
I wish I had gotten the 6 speed straight shift but the wife insisted on an automatic, but she never drives it anyway.
 
I ordered all new LED lights and 4 flood/work lights and a few other things last night from eBay. I plan to install work lights on the headache rack and reverse lights in the back bumper along with all the factory tail and marker lights.
Now I got to go out and make sense of the bird nest of ripped out wiring under it.

I got a pic of the dovetail in the raised position. As best I can figure to raise/lower it you just install a 4’ cheater pipe in the pivot arm and lift/lower it.

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I got most of the stuff done to my trailer and tried it out today for the first time. The thing towed great, I almost forgot it was back there, even loaded. It is way better than Dad’s old trailer I was using.
I took it down to the Lawrimore trailers shop (about 30 miles from me). And let me start by saying I was impressed with both their workmanship and prices. They fabricated and installed a new 3rd ramp, designed and fabricated a sturdy way for it to pin up and not interfere with my dove tail space, installed lids on my front chain box, replaced a smashed marker light bracket, cut the legs shorter on both the existing ramps and painted everything they worked on, all for a grand total of $200! They got all of my future business!

I ordered all new clear lens LED lights from eBay for less than $100 and installed them then soldered and heat shrunk all the wiring. I also installed 2 rubber mount work lights on the headache rack and 2 backup lights in the rear bumper. I repacked the wheel bearings and inspected/adjusted the brakes and fixed a few problems.

So I got about $2,800 and a little work in this thing so far, next I need to get a winch installed and a few other tweaks and modifications and she will be just right.

Here are the pics of the 3rd ramp and stuff, (it was real sunny toady);

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