1020 Fuel Gauge sending unit...

I have a 1020 with a fuel gauge issue. When the switch is turned on, the gauge "jumps" up to empty and stays there. I'm at the point where I can spend some time trouble shooting this, and would like to not run out of fuel this winter (not that I've ever done that...). BTW this is not a new condition to the tractor, it was like this when I bought it. I would tend to think the gauge is ok...don't know about the sending unit.

Any help on the approporiate steps to figure this out would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The only way to know is hook up another guage. It has a plug in and the guage is a grounding device...on 1020 has about 6 screws and a gasket. I've got one didn't use. If you want to email me, we'll work out something....

sorry mine was for a 2040.

Im NOT familiar with that 1020 or any new generation gauge or and sending unit, that being said.

How many gauges work is voltage is applied to the gauges input when a tractor is switched on,,,,,,the output of the gauge goes to a sending unit which is simply a variable resistance (X ohms full versus Y ohms when empty) to frame ground. To test a gauge (if its a simple 2 wire unit as described before) if theres voltage on its input and you momentraily flash its output to ground it should full deflect. DO NOT just wire it dead to ground as it may draw excess current and damage the gauge since the sender may still have some resistance to ground even at the extremes of full or empty. Just momentarily bump its output to ground looking for needle deflection showing the gauge action works.

IFFFFFF the sender is good it should have continuity to frame ground (NOT an open circuit, thats BAD) and the ohms as the float goes from full to empty may be like 0 to 30 or 0 to 200 or 30 to 200 or whatever, I have no idea on that tractor.

NOTE if it immediately swings and pegs the needle as you say ID BE LOOKING FOR A SHORT IN THE WIRE FROM GAUGE TO SENDER. That can happen easily and make the guage think its like always full or empty as the case may be. If you disconenct the wire from the gauges output down to the tanks sender and the gauge stops pegging the needle ID REALLY LOOK FOR A SHORT WHILE A BAD SENDER MAY ACT LIKEWISE.. A bad sender may have a short or an open circuit

OTHER PROBLEMS may be the float (in tank on end of sender rod) is bad and sinks to the bottom or the float is missing completely??

Start by looking for a short and see what happens if the gauges output wire is removed because that should for sure (unless gauge is bad internally) make the needle stop defelcting. Then remove the sensor wire at the sender (wired back on at the gauges output) and if she still full deflects and theres no change Id suspct a short in the wire from gauge down to sender

NO WARRANTY newer gauges used pulser type activation and some had a ground at the gauges, the above is for 2 wire type gauge systems

John T NOT a New Gen kinda guy

Tanks guys...

When I mentioned the gauge jumps, it jumps to empty and just sits there. It wouldn't surprise me to have a short in the wire...it wouldn't be the first one I've found. The rear wiring harness was a mess, I just removed it.

I have reason to suspect the connector from the lead coming from the sending unit to the front wiring harness could be part of the problem...its old cracked plastic and in less than stellar condition. I'll poke around and see if I can get some measurements from the sending unit.

Thanks again!

Just unhook the wire going to the sending unit and see what the gauge does. Then ground that wire and watch the gauge. If the gauge reads full one way, and empty the other, then the problem is the sending unit.

Sometime you can take apart the sender and fix it. If any expense in involved, you can buy an aftermarket universal kit with new gauge and sender for around $30. Won't look original but works fine. I put a kit in my Deere 1010 crawler and Deere 300b(indurtrial 1020).