JD G wiring question / trouble - Help Please

Ok, so I am trying to hook the wiring up on the G. So it had two 6 volt when we got it, but they were dead. So we put in a 12v. But did we do it correctly? Is the positive suppose to to go to the starter or should the postive side go to ground? We had it running with the positive side to the starter, but the coil was super hot to touch. Any one got a wiring diagram they can send me. I need to know how to wire the generator also. Please help.

It was originally positive ground (+ to frame ground - to starter), so if you installed the new battery opposite of that and started it before you re polarized the generator correctly, you may have damaged the voltage regulator. Id connect it at Positive ground, polarize the genny, start it n see what happens

However, reverse polarity shouldnt make the coil overheat. One possible cause of coils overheating is when a 6 volt coil is used on a 12 volt system and theres no series external voltage dropping (12 to 6) ballast resistor used. On a 12 volt system you need EITHER a full true 12 volt coil or a 6 volt coil PLUS the external ballast resistor

Let me know

John T

G Wiring Diagram

Ok, let me make sure I got this right. On the diagram the neg side of the coil should go to the Dist, correct? Coil positive should go to the ignition switch? Now how do you polarize the genny? Also, my relay does not have L. It has Bat, Gen, and F. Does L = Gen?

At Positive ground, the coils + goes to distributor while the - goes to the ignition switch....

Polarize by momentarily flash jumping a lil wire from the Voltage Regulators BAT terminal over to its ARM/GEN terminal and you should get a lil spark, do that BEFORE start up...Or if its a 4 terminal VR that has the ARM/GEN terminal on the bottom, it may be easier to jump from the VR's BAT terminal down to the gennys ARM post

Most 4 terminal (BAT ARM FLD LOAD) VR's have the ARM/GEN terminal off on one side or the bottom all by itslef, make sure which one you have a 3 (BAT ARM FLD) or a 4 ????????????

NOTE a 3 or 4 terminal can still be made to work regardless if it came with a 4 or 3 with a minor wiring change.

If you have an L terminal on your VR its a 4 terminal VR so look for the ARM/GEN on the bottom or one side by itself... If its a 4 and the L (Load) is used, it feeds hot battery voltage to loads like lights n ignition via a wire up to the BAT input side of said switches

If you only have a 3 terminal it has no 4th L terminal and loads (lights n ignition) are fed instead from the load side of the ammeter, the same ammeter terminal that connects to the BAT terminal on the VR......

With only BAT GEN and F as you described, you obviously only have a 3 terminal VR so loads are fed off the ammeter or perhaps someone placed the old L wire right there with the BAT terminal which will still work. See if you have 2 wireS on the VR's BAT terminal???? iF SO IT HAD A 4 BUT SOMEONE SWITCHED TO A 3 TERMINAL vR.....

A coil can also get hot if the ignition is on a long time and the tractors not running or else the points remain closed or the condensors shorted out

John T

John H - Thank you for the advise. I did reverse the battery and changed the coil. I now need to flash the Genny. Also, when I had it running eailer, I noticed a slight miss. What could it be. The coil is new, the dist cap and rotor button is new and so are the points. What should the gap be set at? I also need to get the ligts to work, but I will work that problem sometime this week. I am not getting the hot wire to pass energy.