1020 wheel lock up

Rob52

New User
Had an incident where the left wheel locked up and would only proceed with diff. lock engaged. About a year prior my dad was using loader and right side locked up, but I had noticed the PTO had been accidently kicked up partially engaged, moved back to off, no problem. The recent incident alarmed me and I have completely tore down rear end, removed both outdrives, rockshaft housing and removed pinion gear. Everything seems to be fine, nothing excessively worn, only thing I found was a brake liner was out of round with a crack in it on right brake? Any ideas? :?: :idea:
 
(quoted from post at 20:39:05 02/11/09) I meant the "spider" gears on the inside of the diferential,
Yes I know thats what I was talking about, differential housing is completely tore down, seems pretty tight some wear on the pinion shaft for the bevel gears in that spider gear assembly. Didn't seem excessive to me? I'll mic it to see exactly!
Thanks Tim
 
The more I am thinking about this and from what I have seen of the great condition of the differential and entire driveline, Seemed to have happened after the tractor was warmed up pretty good and driving down side road at less than road speed, 5th or 6th gear.
Would/Could this be caused by the heat up of the brake system? I will probably replace the lining disks as both outdrives are removed now. What should I look for with the valve sticking?
Thanks again :)
 
Oil from brakes is not returning to brake valve. Remove ball, spring and retainer from large fitting at rear of brake valve (where line is attached to) and discard. ( both sides ) Be carefull when removing large fitting, long spring behind. You will now also have quicker brake responce when cold.
Howard
 
Thanks, i've put everything back together, noticed the lines and chanels for the pressure rings had almost a grease/dirt packed oil coming from them, cleaned them out before reinstalling the final drives, will work on brake valve next week.
Thanks for the help, I'll keep you posted!
 

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