1948 Model B warmup times

Erik B

Member
I got a '48 B a couple months ago, my first tractor, and noticed the temp. gauge never moved, so I bought a new one from Evergreen (great products, by the way). When that wouldn't move either, I started to wonder, so I put the sender from the old one in a pot of hot water, and off the needle went.

How long does it typically take a late B to show some temperature? It starts out from a heated garage, and I've been using it in cold weather, 30 to 45 minutes at a stretch. The radiator shutters are as closed as they can get, and the system has brand new coolant in it, and was just flushed.

I'm wondering if I might have a cooling system clog or some other problem, but it seemed fine when I flushed it out. It wouldn't take a full seven gallons, only six-some, when I flushed the system.
 
Neither of my A’s will warm up enough to register on the gauge with shutters closed and just riding them around. I figure I must need to be working it hard and/or in warm weather for it to warm up.
 
During this time of year -- unless you are WORKING the tractor, I doubt you will ever see the water temp gauge move! I know mine won't budge. You can open the radiator cap & feel the water with your finger to see it is warm, but surely not what you'd call hot. Closing the shutter is a big help but you still have enough cooling to carry away the engine heat of a tractor at idle during wintertime temperatures. (PatB)
 

My A, B, and D never get warm on the gauge unless really being worked. Driving around, pulling wagons, etc. won't do it. My guess is that your system is fine.
 
I suspect most thermo-syphon systems react that way............there's likley still too much heat loss occurring through the radiator even with the shutters closed.............without being able to restrict/stop the coolant flow, engine temp. will likely never rise to operating temps. during cold weather unless perhaps the engine is operated at near full load for extended periods...........
 
Had the same issue with my 1940 B. Gauge didn't work. Bought a new one. Didn't move. Took it out and put in in boling water and off she went. I finally placed a plastic pan from the bottom of a refrigerator over the front of the radiator. Takes forever to get it to 160 and I've only seen optimal operating temperature at 190 maybe 2 or 3 times and everytime it's because I had it out on the open road in high range overdrive or really had it working for long periods of time and that was with an air temp of 50 to 60 degrees. Right now, with these temps, I bet she won't move above 160 no matter what you do.
 
Eric,
Glen has it on the nose, remember those thermosiphon
engines had no water pump and most had no thermostat (thus
the shutters). The system had 2-3 times as much water as
needed by a "pumped" engine and depended on hot water rising
and cool replacing it in the engine. If you overheated a B you
real had to be working it hard in warm/hot weather, not 30-45
minutes in cold weather, 30 minutes might not get it very warm
at 70*.
 
Thanks to all for the replies, sounds like my system is fine. The plowing I"ve been doing with it is fairly easy, but if this winter"s snowfall keeps up like it has been, I may end up seeing that gauge move after all.
 
just install a ball valve in lower radiator hose. much more effective than shutters, leave fully closed till 190 deg. then BARELY crack open. works beautifully. manual thermostat with no need for a waterpump. my A stays at whatever temp i choose, usually 200, even just idling in -30f. use it for snow removal, its hand start.
 
That would be about a 3” ball valve wouldn’t it? I’d be worried about having it fully closed might starve the block for water and air pockets may form.
I guess if someone was really worried about keeping the temp up then one could retrofit a thermostat into the upper water pipe and it would be automatic?
 
That idea has already been proposed.............without a water pump there likely wouldn't be adequate circulation or pressure for the thermostat to work properly..........

The ball valve SHOULD work fine providing it's opened slightly(to prevent the air pockets you mentioned)and the operator monitors the temp. gauge accordingly............
 
Yesterday evening it was about 60* here, nice T-shirt weather. I drove the 48 A around the neighborhood for about an hour. I had the shudders closed and worked it using 5th and 6th gear and climbing hills and starting and stopping a lot. The gauge never moved off bottom.
 

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