51 B Gear question

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I received my bearings that I needed for my project. I have the service manual but it doesn't tell much about the removal of a few parts. The locking nut doesn't show if its threaded or pinned in the shaft. This is #54 in the photo. I can't get enough light with my head in there to see good at all. I was able to get the lock rings loose, but they are a beech as well. I have the steering snugged as if it just rolled off the line. I purchased a set of taps and cleaned all of the threads on every bolt in the thing so far. I only have one to easy out yet and replace. I found a whole assortment of square nuts in my bin that match the originals perfect. I just finished installing the new hand clutch bushing and only have the rear end to finish before paint. I just am having a time getting the last of the mechanical items loosened. But like I say, they don't tell much about them.
DeereBearing4.jpg
 
Dave,
Sounds like you are moving right along with the B and doing a good job along the way.

I would love to help with your transmission questions, but I'm a little vague on the exact problem.

Have you pulled the covers on the LH side of the tractor maincase? Are those the snap rings you are speaking of? Have you already pulled the shift tower? I have learned that it is much much easier to do a Trans R and R if your rearend housing is off the tractor. This allows you to see what you need to see for setting shift detents for gear mesh. Rebuilding a tranmission through the shifter hole may not be very effective.

If you have specific questions as you go just ask away.
 
Part 54 screws on to the counter shaft. It should be staked into the spline to lock it in place.
 
# 54 is threaded on. You have to use a small screwdriver or thin punch and unstake the flange on it up out of the splines first. It should of been staked at least in one spot. Lefty loosey !
And righty tighty and it should be tight when all done. End play of that shaft book says something like .004"-.006" I like to go to about no play but still spin freely NO PRELOAD either.
When you pull the parts up out lay them in order.
JD sells a VERY GOOD service manual on these models.

I'd think twice about an easy out. don't know what bolt is broke your trying to get out ? , but alot of times welding a nut on them is a better way to go. Easy out break too easy !
Or just drill it all the way out and retap the hole.
 
Spent most of the evening in the garage tonight. I was able to easy out the last broken bolt and run the thread cleaner through the hole before moving on. I was able to get all of the cultivator bolts off the rear axle housing and run the tap through them as well. Then I moved back to the main focus of the rear end. I got the snap ring to spin around, I just have not had any luck getting it started to come out. I also found where the lock collar was staked into the splines, but that baby is solid and will not move. Tomorrow is another day. I have the tech manual as well as the parts list and owners manual. I will find time tomorrow to look up the lock collar and snap ring and order them up if they are still available.
 
Those snap rings can be a pain ! I get an assortment of screwdrivers with good tips on them and go at it. Most you have to stick a large one in there and then another one against that to hold it from spinning. Twisting the tip as to get the edge of the snap ring to come in from the edge so you can then jamb a small screwdriver into the gap to hold it as you then can stick the large one back in farther back.
 
Try using a small tapered punch that will lay between the splines of the countershaft to unlock the staked spot. You can tap the punch under the crushed spot and lift it to where the collar can be turned. The countershaft endplay should be .001 to .004. The snap ring removal is very much like a tire iron episode with screwdrivers. Let us know how you make out.
 

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