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replacing valve guide

1

1951G

Member
I have a broken exhaust valve stem guide and was wondering how hard it is to replace the guide or what are the procedures for removing old one and putting new one in. This is on 1935 B and it"s the right hand exhaust guide.
 
Unless you are taking the head off for other reasons I'd not worry about it. I have seen them broken before and it doesn't seem to affect them.

Now if the head is allready off then by all means get it fixed. Very easy to do with a hyd. press. First measure the distance the end of the guide is from the gasket surface of the head. Record this measurement. I turn a piloted driver in the lathe then press the guide out. Clean the hole out really good then press the new guide in to the measurement prerecorded. Use some assembly lube on the new guide and in the hole. One may be able to get a tool for an air hammer and use this or even a pilot and a big hammer by hand. I have even pulled them out and drawed them in with GR8 allthread before too. Hyd. press is the best though.
 
Hi Mike,

Thanks for the reply. The head is still on the tractor but I"m thinking maybe the valve stem is bent or something else is happening since I can tap the ends of the other stems with hammer and they spring back. When I tap this one, it goes in and the spring is not returning back unless I pull spring back manually. I didn"t want to remove head but not sure about that sticking valve. I"ve also sprayed kroil oil and white lithium grease between guide and stem. I don"t have access to a hydraulic press. Did you say there was another way or maybe just replace the valve and leave the guide as is but I"ll still need to remove the head to do this. Any other thoughts? Thanks.
 
You can drive those guides out with a BFH and a punch. Also the new ones can be re-installed the same way, except that I used a brass drift going back in.
 
It sounds as though you may of just got the tractor and are trying to get it running ? If so I would try to get it running as to check it over better before a tear down.
Keep working oil in that valve and bang it around some. Try spinning it to see if it is bent. If it is get the high spot up and give it a whack ! and it may straighten enough to work for now. I have allready removed the valve spring to work stuck valves better. This was in a late B and with the piston up the valve would not go clear in. Not sure on the unstyled ?
If you have to pull the head it is going to need the valves ground anyhow and at that time whoever does the valves can do the guides too.
 
If you replace the guide, you will proberly have to ream the new guide to size and the valve seat will have to be re-cut. It might also need a new valve if the old one is bent or has seized at some other time.

It maybe best to take it to your favorite machine shop for some expert attention.
Aussie
 

Mike, once you have the old one out couldn't you put the head on a gas grill and heat it up so you don't have to use the BFH to get the new guide in? And/Or put the guide in the freezer.
 
This is on a B I'm rebuilding. Haven't fired it up yet with the newly bored/sleeved cylinder and rebuilt head. Just found out the cause of valve sticking. This was on a new rebuilt head and block. I had the block resleeved back to standard and the #2 exhaust valve is rubbing against it when it opens. I've taken off head to verify the scoring marks on cylinder wall and ground some off to allow for clearance of valve. However, I've still got to replace the valve guide. Once I removed the head and tapped the valve, it works perfectly. Thanks again for everyone's help.
 
Aha !! Another 2cyl. block improperly sleeved.

I have been the victim of poor machine shops before.

Those blocks were made with that larger counterbored area up front for a reason. I sure hope they ran the sleeve clear to the bottom so the last ring doesn't catch on it.
 
Yes, I checked that and it is to the bottom so that part is good. Thanks again for your help.
 
Nope, just had it resleeved and #2 exhaust is rubbing against the insert. #1 exhaust clears fine. I used a grinding stone and removed a little on that side and the piston doesn't come up that far so hopefully, I should be good to go.
 
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