51 A block in a '60

How badly will I compromise the frame strength of my '60 if I install an A block in it? Secondly, the crack in my '60 block is a tiny hairline crack at the top of the cylinder forward of the ring travel. Is it feasable to try and have it repaired? Would any of these work, JB Weld, brazing, cast welding, or sleeving? Thanks.

A late enough A block may even have the holes in the bottom shop by casting numbers.Good chance alot of the old A's had new blocks put in them years past and if the number was updated then that's what they got.Several old A's still holding up without those bolts ? I even saw one run with NO back nuts holding it in and the block was bouncing around !

I don't know if you saw my reply to the earlier post, but doubtful it will hold as the stress from the studs pulls them back apart there.

One more warning those blocks are also VERY thin on the outside bottom and crack there easy so be careful when shopping around !

To Mike M: Your post confirmed what I suspected. I was sure the crack would widen with operating heat and or bolt tension. I did see your previous post. Thank you. Will start looking for a '60 block and thanks to you will look it over carefully.

Once bitten twice shy or something like that ? I got bitten bad by a late A block and a poor machine shop. BTDT

There probably isn't a person reading these posts who doesn't have at least third-hand knowledge of a sour machine shop experience. Why? This is the question that begs asking!

I will grant you that there are shops out there that will do something wrong. But we in "the community" must also realize that most of those in these shops weren't even a "gleam in their Daddy's eye" during the "two cylinder tractor era". They don't think like we do!

But what I maintain is the main reason for failure is lack of communication! To resolve, prepare a written Statement of Work, or SOW. This demands, at a minimum, that YOU know what you want done, that you write it out in words! It forces you to study, to ask questions, and (in short) to sort of pre-live the steps you want followed with your tractor's engine parts.

And so here you go to a sit-down appointment with the machinist -- SOW in hand (2 copies). You also have your service manual (the machinist WILL briefly need it). As you and the machinist evaluate the SOW, corrections are likely, as are some degree of NEW understanding. In short, you each will learn something! Both copies of the SOW are marked up and signed off. From this point forth, you and the machinist have a written statement of understanding -- he knows what to do, and you know what to expect. From this point forth, the relationship should only strengthen.

A sad reflection here is that many in "the community" will spend a brief 90 minutes tearing the entire engine apart, and then wonder what to do! And for this very wide group of avid, wonderful, thrill-seeking troopers, I recommend a thorough Restoration Guide that lays out the basics -- particularly in the engine area because (a) without an engine, you have no tractor, and (b) Big Bucks can be spent in the area in a heartbeat! And yes -- I do sell Restoration Guides! (PatB)