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2010 Transmission

K

Kevin B

Member
Well, that was a lot of work for nothing. I got the 2010 all back together after getting the rollers back on the shifting forks and changing the clutch and pressure plate. The tractor acts as though the clutch is not disengaging. But I removed the access plates and crawled underneath. The clutch is working. I bypassed the neutral safety switch and started the tractor in gear. Something in the differential area seems to be slipping because even when started in gear the tractor won't move forward or reverse. It tries to move, but every couple of seconds something slightly grinds and the tractor rolls slightly (fractions of and inch) and rolls back the same amount. I can actually start he tractor in gear and with the clutch out and it acts as though I have the clutch in. I was going to pull the brake covers off this morning and see what is going on with the final drives. ANY help would be appreciated. Thinking of salvaging it out.
 
I'd start by figuring out why the clutch isn't disengaging. It MAY not be engaging properly, either?
 
I adjusted the clutch from no free-play in the pedal to 4 inches ( book says 1" of free play) It made no difference. pulled the transmission cover off and turned the motor over. Everything is spinning and shifting as it should in the transmission. When I had the tractor running, I disengaged the clutch and watched it disengage. It never stopped, but there was little drag on the input shaft with the transmission in neutral. I'm not discounting your theory. It just seems strange that everything turns through the transmission, but the tractor doesn't try to run me over when it's in gear and I'm turning it over.
 
When you installed the new clutch, did you install it in the proper direction, been a long time so don't rembember rather the long hub goes to the front or the rear but if it is wrong it can give you these problems, also when sliding the tractor together you didn't pull it together with the bolts and warp the disk
 
when I put in the new clutch, it came with decals that said "pressure plate side" and " fly wheel side". I verified that the long side goes to the flywheel by the picture in the factory manual. I even second guessed my self, so when I pull the bell housing cover, I verified that was the way it was.

Update: I got the seat and differential cover off and started the tractor up in gear. The differential was turning, but the final drives weren't.
 
I have a 2010D and it sounds like the trannys out of sync. I've had it happen to me and acted just like you describe. Mine was caused by wear on the shifter drum under the dash but any out of adjustment in the system can cause it. You mentioned changing the rollers on the forks, what caused you to open up the transmission in the first place. Was the original clutch wore out? The syncronizers on this transmission can cause a lot of problems when they get worn.
 
I lost all drive on my 2010. I was pushing snow when I couldn't back up or go forward. No loud bangs or booms. No matter what gear I put it in, it wouldn't move. The clutch is working and at the top end of adjustment. I've been preparing to split the case, taking off the loader when I noticed I can push the tractor (with another tractor) even if the shifter is in park.

When I first got the cover off, I found a roller was missing from range selector "cam". I put the roller back on and synched the shifter with the transmission as per the manual.
 
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