Circulating tank heater on 4020 and ether

The ether problem....I cant get my screw cap in the cab to open I have wrenched it pretty hard with double wrenches to keep from bending the dash and so far it wont budge. I was thinking bout taking a propane torch to it and a pipe wrench. Is there an o ring in that thing and why would it be so frozen down? Do I have to have a special JD can to use ether? Also I want to trace the line to see where it goes or if there is a line on it. Where should the line from the cab lead to? I have heard everything on ether from use it to don't use it. I figure if they put a system on it at JD it should be useable. I know that you want to give a short burst after it begins to turn over. I started it @ 30 degrees the other nite with no heat or anything and it fumbled a tiny bit but then kicked over and smoothed out nice. Any other cold weather start info / tips appreciated.

I had a set of chains made for it and I got the 7 foot international blower all set up and ready to go.

John

The 4020 was a fabulous winter starter, even with temps down to -35 to -40 F.

1. It had to have the block heater plugged in.
2. Only when it was getting up in years did we have to revert to a snort of ether to get it to wake up.

I remember one time that a kid got stuck one nite when it was -30 F and I went and fired up the 4020 to pull him out. I noticed that it was rattling more than normal till it warmed up, but only the next day did I realize that the breaker was tripped out at the pole, and that poor old girl handn't been plugged in to heat up.

The old man wasn't too impressed with the repair bill for the push rods I'd pretzeled as a result of firing it up so cold without the block heater working.

So as others have said, Ether is best used very sparingly and only if the motor is getting a bit tired, otherwise a plugged in 4020 with the regular block heater should fire up under any sane temp you want to work her in.

Good luck.

Don't give up on that circulating heater. They work great in our cold climates. There is no motor in them. The noises you hear come from the heating of the engine coolant. The coolant flow is achieved by convection. The warmed coolant rises and cooler coolant sinks to replace it. A high temp in the output line and a cold temp in the return is to be expected. As other posters stated the hot water must go to the head and the supply come from the block. The heater itself should not be at the level of the head and the hose going to the head must not loop up and over the head. This will cause enough restriction to stop the convection flow. Also there should be a thermostat in the heater. If the coolant gets too hot it will shut off.

I'm short on time right now, but I'll check in tonight ands see how you made out.

John

The cord for the heating element enters the top. Not sure but I think the top is held on with a Phillips screw. If I am right then you should be able to replace the cord.

The ether injector cap should only be finger tight. There is an o-ring to prevent it from sucking air. Yours must be rusted. Try some penetrating oil and a little heat.

From the injector there is an 1/8" steel line (guessing on the dimension but its small) that runs to the intake manifold. It"s on the left side of the tractor so it should be easy to find, not much on that side unless you have A/C in your cab.

I hope that helps. Did you get your load control shaft seals replaced?

I have almost got my joystick plumbed. I have a line that Tees off the rockshaft supply..I teed off from the rear fitting at the rockshaft rather than by the brakes...cleaner line to the valve. I ran lines to the loader out the front and down past the pto lever and out through the cab floor just forward and left of the brakes. I put quick couplers here. I have yet to make lines from the loader to those quick couplers. Need 4 about 4 feet long. I have a quick coupler at the valve for the supply but not coupled yet but ready to go (1/2 inch). I also have a 3/4 inch quick coupler at the valve on the return side. I had to mount the valve to know how long all the hoses would be with fittings in place. I am heading into town today to pick up the 3/4 inch return line...5 feet. I need to cut a bit of cab molding to route it. I have the T to return to the area behind the filter cap. Once I get the last parts set up and ready to place I will drop the fluid and do the load shaft and the T for the return line. That is when I will find out about the brakes. I need to get some shim washers on hand yet for the load shaft. So I am getting closer to finishing valve, load shaft and finding out what brake situation is. The valve was $200 but the fittings and hoses and couplers are adding up to about $250 - $225.

The brakes creak and groan but they lock up the wheels no problem if you want them to so I am hoping that the creaking is normal. Not likely though :] I also had been striping and painting the areas behind where valves and hoses were going to go so that I wouldn't have to take them off again as I paint the tractor. So I have various sides and parts stripped primed and painted. Looks a little goofy but jewel in the rough I say :]

Thanks again for the help

John

If you question the quality of the cords you are using at all, replace them. 3 winters ago, my Father in Law burnt down his shed where he stores his baler, 4040, all of his cattle working equipment, feed, and general farm supplies. He came home from work to see some smoke coming out of the barn...he had plugged in the 4040 at noon when he was home for lunch, and by 5 when he returned, the cords and plug on the engine heater had shorted out, and the cab of the 4040 was engulfed in flame, all he could do was stand and watch, once the fire started. The local F.D. showed up, but an old barn w/ a hay loft burns hot and quick. A total loss.