snow plow shoes again

firhead

Member
I found these old brackets back in my junk pile that I think came off a machinery shipping crate. Stem is 1 1/8 cold-rolled. My question
now is, assuming the brackets are just low end soft steel, should I try and hard surface them underneath to minimize wear, or wouldn't it
really matter? I've never used a hard surfacing rod (stick) and don't know what to expect. This project ended up having a lot of potential
answers to that age old question What could go wrong?
Thanks
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Weld a section of chisel plow shovel to it since you didn't use it to start with. They already have the curve you want and will wear longer. Those will dig or push dirt with the front if there is no frost to hold it up in the first place. I like disk blade pieces since they are already bowl shaped then just add another one to the bottom as they wear. cut them to the diameter you want for the size. Plow point will also work if you bend the end up some so it has a slope to it. Already harder than the piece you used and easier than all the work of hard surfacing. If do still think you need the hard surfacing. Run it length wise so the dirt can slide along the beads instead of across them. The old spring tooth drags with the runners we used to put old plow points on the front skid then weld new strip steel to the runners on the flats for wear. This was 45 years ago or more.
 
I never worked with anything other than mild steel. Regarding old plow points, chisel points, I'm assuming these can be welded with regular (7018) stick rod? I have some pieces of old truck spring around, but I gather this is real fickle to weld, and maybe not even applicable here. I need abrasion resistance, and I have some old marker shoes - never saw them till I got to southern Colorado - they're made to be dragged through the dirt. No big deal if something doesn't pan out; just try something else. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
I've welded plow point ,chisel plow shovels and even disc blades with both 7018and 7014 the 7014 rod is a real easy rod to work with and has the same 70,000 strength as the 7018. Just not a low hydrogen rod. Will work with both AC and DC voltage. Just drag the rod about.
 
The shoes cam with my 7' rear blade when new but I never installed them. Did not need them plowing snow on gravel. Before you get enough snow to plow you will likely get a small amount and just driving over it a couple of times you have enough ice there you do not need anything like that to make the blade ride higher to make a thicker slab of ice.
 
Problem where I live now, it seems to be freeze/thaw cycles all winter long. I used to live in the northeast, where once the ground froze up in late December, things smoothed out till early March and as you say, then I could plow over top. Here, I'm often plowing thawed mud/gravel, and without something to mitigate this, I'm digging in too much.
And CatGuy, I took your advice and turned up the leading edges on my home made ones. Going to try my hand at hard surfacing them. Never did this before; any advice out there?
Thanks
 
If you use a lot of heat they will probably warp some so with the beads lengthwise it will be better than cross ways. Like I said before I would just weld a plow point or chisel shovel to the bottom of them. a chisel plow shovel will straighten out flat pretty easy in the wood furnace with an iron to pound on as soon as it comes out of the fire.
 

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