Round baler newbie

grtrnd1

Member
Hello all. Second year round baler owner.
Square baled all my life. I own a Case
8420. Still having issues dumping a bale.
Door is up and valve on the fender
squalls. I'm assuming it's up all the way.
Belts are horizontal with the door in the
raised position. If I push down on both
bale ramps by hand, the bale will roll
out. So, I may take the ramps off. I lose
a bale on the hillside. It seems to turn
the bales when I push down on the
ramps..Another question. My door doesn't
seem to latch every bale. It will show
closed on the plunger but it gets hay
built up and the dog won't catch. Every
bale I have to get off and clean it out. I
also get alot of short hat built up on top
of the belts and in front of the baler. Is
this normal? Thanks for any help.
 

cvphoto101662.jpg
 
On my baler the belt are up more than horizontal when the gate is fully open. Make sure the gate is opening all the way. Condition of the hay may sometime cause a bale not to eject however this should not occur with each roll. Hay that is extremely dry and short hay will tend to build up on the belts and front of the baler. I have a set of ramps on one of my balers and like them so well I am looking for a set for my other baler. Hope you can solve your baler problem.
 
Thank you for the reply. It's every single bale. Sometimes I can back up and bump the clutch and it will roll out but maybe once out of every 10 will do that. I don't think the door is opening all the way. My valve is off my splitter and is turned up all the way. The door will go up and the diversion valve will start squalling and the door won't go anymore. Don't know anyone in my area that has one of these small balers or using a Hesston 530 that I can see when theirs is raised all the way. My tractor is a small Massey 50 gas and this little baler makes it work extremely hard. A bigger tractor is in order hoping by next summer.
 
Could be that the draw bar on your tractor is to close to the ground and makes the baler tilt forward. See if you can borrow a larger tractor from someone and try the baler with it.
 
Pictures can be deceiving, but from the amount of rod showing compared to the cylinder barrel length, it looks like the cylinder is fully extended. Measure the exposed for and compare that measurement to the barrel length from the base weld to the gland end. Allow 4 to 5 inches for the gland and piston and I think the measurements will be close.
 
Hi, I have baled with an 8420 for probably 10 years or more. If the picture you show is with door all the way up you have an issue since mine goes up a quite a bit more than that. I have also found out it works the best to leave tractor PTO running at the same speed as you were baling, put the string on, back up around 10 feet and open the door. The bale should roll right out and I dont have the arms. Then you can pull forward and drop the door before coming in contact with the windrow. I will say these balers dont like extremely dry or short hay. It will also let you know when the hay gets damp and it is time to quit. If you have more specific questions feel free to email me. Where are you located?
Thanks DJ
 
What diameter roll are you trying to make? The manual says they will do up to a 54 inch but I can only make a 48 inch diameter. Diameter can affect how they dump out. The short, fine, dry hay can be a real problem. I have an 8420 and a Hesston 5530, and have had the same trouble with hay in the latching mechanisms. I wonder if the belts have been cut off and re-laced too many times? That could affect how high the tail gate will raise.
Do you know if it has ever had a new set of belts?

Garry
 
You need to figure out why there is so much hay getting on top of your belts. and the tail gate is not even close to opening all the way. I have an 8430 and I've never seen that much hay inside my belts and I can't tell you what's wrong with that, but something is. That tail gate going all the way up will cause the belts to push the bale out. Let us know what you find out. I'm kinda thinking the belts have been replaced with shorter belts tan it should have. Check your manual then you might have to pull a belt and measure it to see the length, or there may be 1 belt that is too short and it is possibly causing the problem.
 
I have a MF50 gas. I do not think it has enough HP or hydraulic capacity to run a 4ft round baler properly. You may have 2 problems, a baler issue (belts?) and a tractor issue (hydraulic capacity).
 
Hay to dry or wet will increase the problem with hay in the belts. Look to see if there are scrapers on the back side from the belt that is supposed to help with keeping hay from getting inside the belts. As for the dumping not sure.
 
In my experience hay on top of the belts like your photo shows happens when bailing very short very dry material.

What is happening is as the bale grows you are loosing material between the belts.

Only things that will change that are;

-Longer hay
-Bigger swath
-Faster ground speed
-Bail early in the morning when it is on the damp side

As far as the kicker goes I have a lot of hills in my fields and found it was more of a hassle than it was worth.
While bailing a field in the dark I backed up where I shouldn't have and ripped mine clean off.
Best thing that has ever happened and I will not be putting it back on.

I have auto wrap on my baler, when the alarm beeps to tell me I have a full bale I just turn off the row to where baling is already done and start in a circle.
Halfway through the circle it beeps to tell me it's time to dump.
I raise the gate to let the bale out then drop it back down just in time to start feeding in material for the next bale.

When you are in motion and the kicker is not there the bale comes out faster and the gate does not need to go as high to release it.

Not saying it is right for every situation but for my rollercoaster field it works great and my cycle time is faster than it is when stopping and hoping the kicker works.
 
It definitely works the old girl. A Masseyb65 or 165 is in the works but didn't get it done this year. Hoping to get one by spring.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top