Repost:MF560/Vermeer 605C baler. Any good? Tips on runni

I had posted this yesterday in the Massy section, but figured it probably belongs here better. Long story short, am starting my own hay operation, my father in law is giving me an MF560 baler for free. It was his backup baler to his 1560. Had new belts and a new chain put on before parked, and has a limit switch and light to tell you when its ready to tie. Worked well last time he used it. Just needs a tire and some basic maintenance.

Im looking for any info you all might have about it. How good were they? What are some common things that break/what should I look at? How user friendly are they? Any tips on running it?
 
Was a good machine in it's day.

Still a good machine but it takes some skill to operate. I ran my dad's for spending money when I was in college.

Dad bought it new when the only round balers out there were Vermeer and Hawkbilt. We had a good dealer and our machine had quite a few updates, rubber rollers etc. Both the
dealer and my dad said by far the best and most usable update was a pair of 3/8ths bolts with bushings in the tension chains. They kept the tension off the belts so they
wouldn't turn until you had a chance to get all the way across the windrow when starting a bale, makes a huge difference.

There was a add on set of fingers for cornstalks which helped hold the windrow on the pickup fingers.

Cornstalks and grass can get to dry for this model. Cornstalks just won't feed through the pinch rollers, grass will wrap. If it starts wrapping QUIT, you can and will bend
the scraper bars, trust me I know!! Just wait for a dew to set on if you can.

Heavy built machine. We used a 1070 case for the most part but in a pinch the 3020 John Deere was a good match also, never had power issues with either of those two tractors
so you might be able to go smaller. Remember you will need to back up for every bale so a tractor with a convenient reverse is helpful.

JM2CW YMMV

jt
 
(quoted from post at 08:16:55 08/19/21) Was a good machine in it's day.

Still a good machine but it takes some skill to operate. I ran my dad's for spending money when I was in college.

Dad bought it new when the only round balers out there were Vermeer and Hawkbilt. We had a good dealer and our machine had quite a few updates, rubber rollers etc. Both the
dealer and my dad said by far the best and most usable update was a pair of 3/8ths bolts with bushings in the tension chains. They kept the tension off the belts so they
wouldn't turn until you had a chance to get all the way across the windrow when starting a bale, makes a huge difference.

There was a add on set of fingers for cornstalks which helped hold the windrow on the pickup fingers.

Cornstalks and grass can get to dry for this model. Cornstalks just won't feed through the pinch rollers, grass will wrap. If it starts wrapping QUIT, you can and will bend
the scraper bars, trust me I know!! Just wait for a dew to set on if you can.

Heavy built machine. We used a 1070 case for the most part but in a pinch the 3020 John Deere was a good match also, never had power issues with either of those two tractors
so you might be able to go smaller. Remember you will need to back up for every bale so a tractor with a convenient reverse is helpful.

JM2CW YMMV

jt

Thanks for the advice. Ill be using my case 830 to run it. Has a fresh engine rebuild in it so will probably appreciate the workout. We are also on fairly level ground so it shouldnt have to pull much.
 
(quoted from post at 11:16:55 08/19/21) Was a good machine in it's day.

Still a good machine but it takes some skill to operate.

Dad bought it new when the only round balers out there were Vermeer and Hawkbilt. We had a good dealer and our machine had quite a few updates, rubber rollers etc.

Cornstalks and grass can get to dry for this model. Cornstalks just won't feed through the pinch rollers, grass will wrap. If it starts wrapping QUIT, you can and will bend
the scraper bars, trust me I know!! Just wait for a dew to set on if you can.
JM2CW YMMV

I remember back when I was employed by a farm equipment dealer demonstrating a Hawkbilt rd bundle roller to a prospective owner. It rolled hay on the ground with spring tension applied to tooth bars.

Round bale hay balers have advanced tremendously in the last 40 years. Newer rd balers are a lot easier to operate & make nice/tight bales that shed water better

I would hate to return to utilizing a rd baler with only spring tension applied to form rd bale bundles instead of tightly formed round bales from balers with hyd tension. Also these older balers only utilized twine for wrapping bale IE no netwrapping.
 
I remember back when I was employed by a farm equipment dealer demonstrating a Hawkbilt rd bundle roller to a prospective owner. It rolled hay on the ground with spring tension applied to tooth bars.

Round bale hay balers have advanced tremendously in the last 40 years. Newer rd balers are a lot easier to operate & make nice/tight bales that shed water better

I would hate to return to utilizing a rd baler with only spring tension applied to form rd bale bundles instead of tightly formed round bales from balers with hyd tension. Also these older balers only utilized twine for wrapping bale IE no netwrapping.[/quote]

I wish I could afford something new and fancy like that. Maybe eventually I can buy something. But for now, Im just getting started, and you cant really argue with a price like free.
 
Its old. It has closed throat which can cause some frustration compared to anything newer. It just doesnt have a lot of pressure so wont make a super tight bale.

Can get the job done tho, depends what you are baling and how many acres.

Be nicer to have an F or newer tho.

Paul
 
I remember back when I was employed by a farm equipment dealer demonstrating a Hawkbilt rd bundle roller to a prospective owner. It rolled hay on the ground with spring tension applied to tooth bars.

Round bale hay balers have advanced tremendously in the last 40 years. Newer rd balers are a lot easier to operate & make nice/tight bales that shed water better

I would hate to return to utilizing a rd baler with only spring tension applied to form rd bale bundles instead of tightly formed round bales from balers with hyd tension. Also these older balers only utilized twine for wrapping bale IE no netwrapping.[/quote]

I wish I could afford something new and fancy like that. Maybe eventually I can buy something. But for now, Im just getting started, and you cant really argue with a price like free.
 
From what I read in the past, starting a bale is a challenge, find a thin spot of hay feed slow?

You will need the right moisture hay, they dont like too wet or too dry?

Paul
 
A good sized windrow and full width as fast as possible, starting a bale at an angle to the wind row helps, slow and narrow wind rows will let the belts run over and under the bale an make a mess, I ran one for a neighbor for years, good balers for their day, it takes practice and patience to run one well, very dated now, usually bring scrap price around here.
Mike
 

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