So I picked up a new to me new idea model 30a sickle mower the other day. I've got a couple acres of pasture to mow for my amateur hay operation. (It's more of a play outside with old equipment thing).

So I know the blades need to be replaced and there cheap enough but what about the ledger plates and rock guards? Should those be replaced for reliabilitys sake? What's on it now have the new idea logo cast into them I'm guessing original? Nothing at my local fleet farm looks like them. Can I use the double style in place of two singles?

Currently the cutters don't even make contact with the ledger plates ive got about a 1/4" gap which doesn't seem right. I'm currently waiting on a owners / parts manual to come. But I'm afraid it's going to be filled with antiquated part numbers for obsolete parts and I'll have to make due with some universal parts anyhow. Anyone have any experience or tips on this?

If your guards are NI original stuff, chances are they are pretty worn.

The ones from Fleet will work OK, had a bunch on my old machine.

As I remember, getting the tongue down to hitch it up was a bear, IF the sickle was up.

What noone has said, is that youll need around 10ft or 3/4 rope or les as its a rope trip machine. I owned one once. Bought it at a machinery auction. When I went to get it, someone had taken the top off the gear box., but I made it work

I don't know if buying a different mower is the best advice- no disrespect intended. Most mowers work the same and have the same result after proper tuning. Yes I know the difference between pitman and wobble box mowers and there is a huge difference in ability. But for someone just starting out and maybe not wanting to break the bank on a few acres, I think that his mower will work just fine after getting new sections and guards. One can get into a lot of heart break paying extra for color and brand. If you're going to spend that much, might as well get a cheap haybine . That might also just be in my area and a John Deere 3/450 or New Holland 451 might be better priced in your neck of the woods. JMHO

They told me my number 8 would never cut hay either and Ill put it up against any sickle mower there is . A little more vibration ya maybe when the bar is up and not cutting hay .

I suggest you spend your time and money on a better mower,NH and JD built good belt drive trailer type sickle mowers that can be had reasonable.There are parts still easily available for both and will out cut that mower 10 to 1.And parts availability is important,I quit using AC mowers because of the parts situation even though they are a good cutting mower.

Probably unnecessary advice, but you'll need to have the bar in the down (cutting) position to check it out. An upright bar is not at all close to one operating in the down position. kelly

There are wear plates under each of the hold down clips. They support the back of the section bar and keep the sections from lifting off the stationary knives.

Get your manual, see if there are wear plates and what other parts are there to wear out. You're going to have to refurb the whole thing. The bar has to be straight and free of bends and kinks, the wear plate bed smooth and even, the same for the knife bed and the underside where the guards mount. I'd recommend double haybine guards, top serrated sections and you have to make sure everything is lined up right. The hold downs need to hold the sections DOWN and your manual should give you the needed clearances. You'll also have to check the wear in the pins that determine your bar lead and adjust/replace what you can. Oil and grease the crap out of it and be prepared to adjust things as you use it. Think of it as a 7 foot long row of individual scissors each needing to be just right to work well.
No matter how much work you do, parts you replace, it will never work as easy as a haybine, discbine/mower or drum mower. It will also likely never have the resale value of what you sink into it. Been there, done that, got the tee shirt.

I put the new style guard on my John Deere no.8 per the advice of the fine fellows on this board . I can cut hay as fast as I can stay in the seat . Hopefully you can do the same on yours

Take one of the guards with you to make sure they will bolt up the same as the ones currently on it but double should work fine. If you can't find the right ones try this site...

https://www.cuttingcomponents.com/. They have a little of everything. You can buy different hold downs that are adjustable and are easier to work with but if you're like me and don't want to spend the extra a good smack with a hammer and it should snug them down. It also could be that your guards need to be bent up also. You can use a good sized chunk of pipe to bend them slightly upward. The blades can't be tight on the guards but touching is what you're looking for. The stand by was if you can slide a piece of paper between the guard ledger and the blade you are in business. Learned a lot from this site and youtube for my IH 120. Good luck!

yes the sickle should run close across the plates first thing is the end of mower beam all the tips of the guards should be in a straight line ; if they are not that needs to be adressed first . then the sickle hold downs need to be snuged up