OK, I have two JD 510 balers, one barn kept with a set of new replacement belts that need to be installed. I have watched the vids on youtube. Are these balers worth the time to bale with, as I have read that they have "closed throat" problems and need "crop merger wheels," and only have spring tension to compress hay. Also, how does "manual twine tie" system work? (I plan on adding a non original 12 volt wireless monitoring camera system to eliminate the crick in the neck) One forum story is heaven, the other is hell. Should I look to something newer for baling a 40 acre meadow?
- Thread starter dwragon
- Start date
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
RUN FOREST RUN!!
Having sold/demonstrated NEW JD 510 rd balers I'll state save the stress & Find a later model such as a JD 430/435/530/535 rd baler or even better a X67 series JD rd baler.
510 was JD's 2nd attempt at manufacturing a rd baler & JD rd baler have progressed a long way since 1977. 510 has 7 bottom belts that forming bundle rides on that have been known to flip over. Reversing 1 or more of the possible 7 flipped bottom belts or replacing these belts($244.64 ea) is no easy task. IIRC the upper belts are very easy to twist especially with an ""inexperienced operator"" & pull the clipper lacings out.
IIRC no converging wheels although needed were never offered by JD. Bale wrapping with twine is accomplished by controlling speed/direction of travel of a hyd cylinder. This twine application cylinder requires a tractor with 2 sets of scv's or a special control valve. The compression roller directly behind pickup attachment are very easy to plug if hay has any damp spots in windrow.
Grassburs if present will stick rubber roller catching twine before it can be wrapped on the bale.
Your blood pressure will be a lot lower with a newer style rd baler!
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Dave
Have you ever had the pleasure of operating any rd balers newer than a JD 510? My parents farm had a JD 410 before trading for a JD 430. In the last 30 yrs I've baled many rd bales & JD's newer rd balers IMHO are similar to comparing the model 510 to a Ford Model T & newer baler to automobile with electric start, power steering & AC.
I agree upper, outside 12'' wide belts are easier to utilize than narrower belts & are a lot more difficult to flip over. Clipper lacings aren't near as durable as Mato lacings on later model rd balers either nor are the belt materials as durable as later style belts .
IMHO 510 with only spring tension makes a loose bale while later model balers make a tighter, more weather resistant bale. My rd baler operating experience is mostly baling grass type hay & a few 1000 corn/milo stalks not Alfalfa
yes, I already have the balers, but zero actual experience using any baler. One of the reasons I got then was that the videos on youtube showed that they made bales. I have about $300 in each of them. I figured for the price, I could always reutilize the metal for something else, if they did not bale correctly.
Bruce from Can.
Well-known Member
- Location
- Woodville, Ontario, Canada
Personally I’d get rid of them, and find a Baler that
isn’t more than 10 years old. Ya I know they cost
more, but it doesn’t matter if you have only a few
acres to bale or a thousand, you need to bale the
hay at it’s prime, and you want to be able to bale
hay not fix the baler when the hay is ready. Also, as
you have told us you have no experience with
round balers, a temperamental machine would not
be the best choice to learn on. Balers can be both
frustrating and dangerous pieces of equipment.
Many moving parts, and closed throat design balers
plug more often, and the operator will be off the
tractor fooling with the machine more often.
Regrettably I know guys that have made that
momentary slip, and now have only one arm, or a
crippled hand. The one guy was just standing
beside the baler watching it rotate trying to figure
out what was going wrong, hit day, and he had his
shirt open. Breeze caught his shirt, and it blew into
the belts and wrapped into the roller pulled his arm
off.
Whatever you do Be Careful !!
isn’t more than 10 years old. Ya I know they cost
more, but it doesn’t matter if you have only a few
acres to bale or a thousand, you need to bale the
hay at it’s prime, and you want to be able to bale
hay not fix the baler when the hay is ready. Also, as
you have told us you have no experience with
round balers, a temperamental machine would not
be the best choice to learn on. Balers can be both
frustrating and dangerous pieces of equipment.
Many moving parts, and closed throat design balers
plug more often, and the operator will be off the
tractor fooling with the machine more often.
Regrettably I know guys that have made that
momentary slip, and now have only one arm, or a
crippled hand. The one guy was just standing
beside the baler watching it rotate trying to figure
out what was going wrong, hit day, and he had his
shirt open. Breeze caught his shirt, and it blew into
the belts and wrapped into the roller pulled his arm
off.
Whatever you do Be Careful !!
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
JD X35 Rd balers had 2 different style netwrap attachments. I owned a baler with the earlier style attachment. That netwrap attachment gave me problems. On the early style attachment the door folds down. The newer styled attachment is much less trouble prone. My 467 rarely gives me any net problems. Over the yrs I've experienced a few rolls of wrap that had tears in net before bale application. I took the faulty rolls back to dealer & exchanged them.
Would you really desire to go back to baling with a 510 after utilizing a 535??? I'm 100% positive I would not want to go back to baling with a 435 baler from my 467. If you want a pleasurable rd baling experience try baling with a X67,X68,X69 rd baler!!
Fred Werring
Well-known Member
Neighbor was having baler problems, was standing next to a moving chain with his shirt unbuttoned.
Told him he was making me real nervous with his shirt next to that chain. He kinda looked at me sideways, but did button his shirt.
I've seen too many guys get hurt.
Fred
Told him he was making me real nervous with his shirt next to that chain. He kinda looked at me sideways, but did button his shirt.
I've seen too many guys get hurt.
Fred
J.Wondergem
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rockford, Mi.
I agree with SV, try them and play with them for a while, you'll then know what to look for in another one.
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
On the throat thing, I had a Hesston 5560 or something like that, 5x6 bale, 4" wide belts, dual swing arms, mounted opposite each other, starting a roll was an absolute joke. In comes the JD series, 530 (5x6) and currently 375 (5x4) must be open throat. Hit the ww and don't even look back.... After the Hesston I had the 530 for many years and it was a good, reliable mechine, well past it's prime but easy to fix and reliable. After retiring and downsizing I bought the JD 375 that was about 15 years old, seemingly not too many bales through it....'91 model. Repacked the lift cylinders thinking they were my soft bale problem but it turned out to be the 3k# pressure relief valve was letting go at around 1500-1700. 65 bucks and good as new.....did put in some idler roller bearings. Kept the chains lubed and haven't had to replace one....Tx Jim helped me on that one.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
JD 510 rd balers & 303 hyd oil have lot in common because both are old style technology have a lot better choices for a better replacement.
Read the manual, do not take your eyes off the bale. Make sure the roll starts all the way across. Only bale dry hay, it absolutely will not bale damp hay( don’t even try). The 510 likes large windrows, I normally bale windrows that barely go under a row crop JD 4020 in fourth gear. Run good belts. Ok for a small operation. If you can afford better I would go that way. Remember you are the “bale master” from starting the roll to adding the twine.
Well, at the moment, I dont have alot of choices, I have about $300 in each baler, and every baler made within the last ten years, folks want thousands of dollars for. I have a friend up the road who is willing to tutor me on using the 510's, as that his what he learned on. As to the dangers of the moving parts, I look with my eyes, not my hands, unless any machine is turned off, and I only wear sleeveless t-shirts. I have more time than money. I think I need one good spring cutting to make it through the winter with my small flock, so I will see how frustrated I get. Thats not to say that I havent truely considered everyones input, I have, and I appreciate each of the replies.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
dwragon
Sorry for my RANT I'll get off my soap box. I still remember the problems associated with demonstrating new JD 410/510 balers especially when comparing to newer rd balers . I understand what your stating concerning your rd baling endeavor. The LOW investment price is a very good incentive.
IIRC the larger the windrow the easier the baler can plug between the hay compression rollers. Have you ever rd baled hay before? IIRC when starting core one needs to frequently weave back & forth to keep bale core more level not snow cone shaped.
Good Luck baling Jim
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
And..........it also keeps you from having a "navel" sticking our one side or the other.......per Jim tutoring me on how to get rid of my navels in my bales!
Again, thanks Jim!
Again, thanks Jim!
The closest thing I ever did to that was directly bale the mower swath. I had to leave a small field on the ground for several days, it was extremely dry on top but was damp on the bottom. It turned out well in that case but we rarely get that big a window in Michigan. I usually mow into a swath ted out and rake two into one. The 510 seems to do better with a windrow raked with a conventional rolla-bar rake. My 510 struggles with smaller windrows. getting that initial roll started evenly, is critical, watch closely to ensure that all the belts pickup. I usually start the left side and immediately swerve to pick up the far right, then back to the left. Getting the core started correctly will help you generate an even bale. I repeat no damp hay and as the manual says operate at about 70% of max PTO speed. I idle back and shift down to start the bale. Just over 1500 rpm and 3rd gear in a JD 4020 power shift.
would not touch with 10 ft pole. buy the next one up and don't look back.
I have used a 510 and was close to lighting it on fire one day and the boss bought a brand
new 535.
I have since bought a 530 and the are real good machines compared to a 510. almost identical
to 535 just single tie arm and a few minor differences. 530 can be had for $200 - $3500
around here.
I tried to get away cheap when I started on my own and bought 3 crap balers and should have
bought 1 good one as I spent more money on 3 crap than 1 good.
I have used a 510 and was close to lighting it on fire one day and the boss bought a brand
new 535.
I have since bought a 530 and the are real good machines compared to a 510. almost identical
to 535 just single tie arm and a few minor differences. 530 can be had for $200 - $3500
around here.
I tried to get away cheap when I started on my own and bought 3 crap balers and should have
bought 1 good one as I spent more money on 3 crap than 1 good.
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