Haybine rock guard Lock nut question

Having a back injury is slowing my haybine project down. I have installed the new rock guards and am using new bolts and hold downs. Shoup sent me all the parts and no problems and fast shipping. But I swear I told the guy over the phone I wanted lock nuts and they sent standard 7/16th nuts. Being I am not a know it all mechanic it was my understanding that was what I should be using? Being the weekend I cannot reorder the nuts till tomorrow or find some locally. I just want to clarify that lock nuts is what I should be using? I never use lock nuts in other applications but here I can see why you would want too. On railroad work we usually double nutted everything as that is what the FRA inspectors wanted. I had this discussion of "why not use lock nuts" with other contractors in RR applications. It seemed like a gray area for that work. Seems to me the added obstruction of longer bolts, washers and nuts would hinder flow of cut material in the haybine? Whats the skinny on this. I will have to take the plain nuts off and replace them, but at least I will have the fitting done with. Thanks for the opinions and thoughts on this. Regards, John.
 
On bar mowers they never used lock nuts from back in the 1880's up. Usually a tapered side to guard or hold down.
 
Howdy John,

I've not used lock nuts on my cutterbar. It's always been plain. Double nutting will cause hangups. Just make sure to pound the end of the guards when
you go to put the final twist on the nuts. The end that mates up against the slab, that is. Preferably over the head of the bolt. The bolt stretching
is enough to keep them from getting loose. Be sure to use a good sized hammer. You're not driving framing nails, but you don't need to maul spikes,
either. ;v)

Mike
 
I’ve had a few implements of old that used the squeezed lock nuts. Never used a nylon type.

Of late I don’t think any of mine use lock Nu s any more. Just standard nuts.

Torq down well and you should be ok.

Up to you of course.

Paul
 

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