Been fighting JD 530 round baler for years

rwskinner

Member
I've posted here many times about this over the years.
I purchased a JD530 round baler. I put all new belts, bearings, chains and sprockets on it.
I never has made a tight bale.

From this forum I've done this....
Had all cylinders rebuilt and tested multiple times.
Had relief valves replaces and tested check valves.
Measured belts 525-1/4" and 531-1/4" so those are fine.
The core is soft, like my old NH 851. Actually softer I'd bet.

I'm baling coastal burmuda grass. I've tried slow (1st gear at 5mph and tried at 7.5 mph)
Not much difference. Initially, the fast speed seemed to make a better bale but the next day they both squated pretty good and are loose.

While I'm baling, my new tension gauge shows right perfect on the split of the green and red, around 2 o clock.

Take gate latches are new and adjusted and it does not open or spread out when baling.

Note. No telling what I have from the statement below.....

The older gentlemen I bought this from had a 510 and 535 that were behind the barn and they appeared to be parts donors.
I know my bale kicker and converging wheels came from the 535 and was added to the 530. Most of the pickup strippers were cobbled on there and had to be replaced when I got it.

I'm down to tension springs. Mine, when the door is closed and latched, the tension springs have absolutely no preload. Should they? Does anyone have a 530 that can tell me how long their springs are when idle and their diameter?

Richard
 

When baling are you weaving so as crowd each edge of windrow to fill the flat sides of the formed bale? Is top of finished bale level or does it resemble the shape a "whiskey barrel"? How wide are the windrows that you're attempting to bale?
 
Edges are formed fine and twine wrapped fine. No barrel shapes.
Windrows are 2'-3' foot wide.

I start off first 50' or so weaving in order to make a decent core then pick a side and crowd it hard (converging wheels in action) and when the gauge gets near the top I move over and load the other side. Rinse and repeat. Honestly, pretty much like I did on the NH851.
 
I don't know anything about a Deere baler, but I've been making round bales since 1979. I don't know that I'd be filling one side then the other. I try to keep the bale level the whole time. Sounds like you need a V rake so you can make a windrow the width of the pickup on the baler.
 

I've never ran a JD baler but every baler I've owned (Hesston, NH) I picked up a operators manual for to find the necessary adjustments and lube points to make they operate properly.
There's may be some free downloads but even the $20-25 I found some for is worth it to eliminate the aggravation of the baler not working properly.
 
(quoted from post at 08:41:36 06/28/20) Pretty impossible to do with my tractor, using a Kubota M7040.

When my regular rd baler pulling tractor was inoperable I've pulled my JD 467 rd baler with my Kubota M7040 making tight 66'' tall bales with no problems. I would think my M7040 would have very few problems pulling a JD 530 making not so tight bales.

Can you please post photos of your rd bales?
 
(quoted from post at 10:06:59 06/28/20) I don't know anything about a Deere baler, but I've been making round bales since 1979. I don't know that I'd be filling one side then the other. I try to keep the bale level the whole time. Sounds like you need a V rake so you can make a windrow the width of the pickup on the baler.

May I ask what brand model you operate that you don't have to weave at least a little to make a "level bale"? I rake a very large 4+' wide windrow for my 4' wide baler but still on occasion have to weave to fill low side.
Thanks,Jim
 
I am not familiar with Jd round balers. We have a Gehl 1865. It has an accumulator the is responsible for tension. I’m guessing the tension springs on your baler take the place of the accumulator. Rrlund also runs a Gehl baler. Our belts are not tight with no hay in the chamber. With this said here is my idea. Even if your belts are not tight with out hay in the baler that does not mean the tensioner springs are good or bad. Possibly the tensioner springs are just plain weak and not keeping the belts tight enough while baling. Since you said your bale shape is good I would think the springs are weak making a loose bale. Belt tension is what makes a tight bale.
 

When tailgate & tension arm is lowered do tension arms rest on stops(Key 6)?

mvphoto57534.png


Shown below is spring spec's but I can't remember correct spring tension before starting a bale.

mvphoto57538.png
 
Thanks, I totally rebuilt the baler and I do have an operators, parts, and technical manuals.
First thing I buy as a seasoned mechanic. I'm just out of answers here and was looking for advice from more Seasoned JD guys, especially folks familiar with the 530 "Round Baler" I also
had a Ford 530 square I rebuilt and it runs perfect.

I buy junk, and build it back up and us it for years and years then trade up. Name of the game for a small time guy like myself.
 
From your spring specs I can confirm mine are actually the proper springs ! Yea. This has been a cross breed for sure.

The tension arms are resting on the stops. There is very little preload on the springs. With the chain/spring adjustments tightened to their shortest length the spring may have 0.010 to
0.030" between the coils. Installed Length of springs are 31.5" which means there must be a very small preload.

My Starter roller has 4 flat bars 1" wide by 1/4" thick spaced at 90 Deg. intervals with a 1/8" wire welded to the top of them. I don't have any problems starting a bale, plugging, or
with belts slipping.

I use a 9' disc mower and I rake 2.5 to 3 rows into a single windrow. I have a 10 wheel V rake. Lots of trees so some get taller and thicker where they get combined around the corners.
But, the straight ways with nice uniform windows produce same results.
 
Thanks Jim. I have tech manual and mine is pretty disappointing.

No hydraulic pressure specs, no specs on the springs, pretty basic.
It did have a good hyd. and wiring schematic, but everything else was almost the same as the Maint. and Adjusting section.
Not the tech. manuals I'm used to seeing.

My baler did pass all the hydraulic tests that was in the tech manual, and when I close the gate and pre-charge the tensions cylinders, the gauges holds at 10 o'clock for a very long
time as in > 15 minutes and the drip test also passed.

One thing you recommended years ago was for me to disconnect the hoses and make a bale. I never have done that, but honestly, I feel like that is like plugging the relief valves. If
there is no place for the oil to go I don't think it can relief right?
 
Your windrows should be much wider than 2-3 ft. Make as wide as the baler pickup. In fact, with the gathering wheels you can make them just a shade wider than the pickup.
 
(quoted from post at 16:56:43 06/28/20) Thanks Jim.

One thing you recommended years ago was for me to disconnect the hoses and make a bale. I never have done that, but honestly, I feel like that is like plugging the relief valves. If
there is no place for the oil to go I don't think it can relief right?

You're welcome. With tractor disconnected while baling if required oil can travel through tension valve to opposite side of gate & tension cyl piston seals

I agree with dcarp make larger windrows!
 
It will not damage anything by unplugging the hoses from the tractor and making a bale. It just eliminates a problem with leaky SCV 's on the tractor.

The "excess" oil goes to the larger piston end of the cylinder from the smaller rod end, therefore no damage.

When you are making a bale, the oil going over "relief" does not go back to the tractor, at least not supposed to.
 

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