Paul, where is ya?

Farmallb

Well-known Member
I called NH in Tulsa yesterday, and they said they had no #69 Bailer, that NH had never made such a model baler.
 
I recall being in a JD dealership 20 years ago, wanted a spool and that funky double taper bearing for an old lettered JD disk, had the model and all. Had the old broken one with as well.

The parts kid was looking and looking in his screen and parts books, boy he couldn’t even find the disk, no such bearing around or maybe even ever made. He could find a spool, but it would have to be ordered from the moon I guess, was t anything around in this entire state.

An older fella from the shop walked by doing something else, he looked at the counter, looked at me, looked at the counter where my broken spool and bearing was, backed up 3 feet, reached around the corner of the parts shelves and grabbed a bearing put it on the counter. He took the p-willow flowers out of the spool (being used for a vase) that was on the counter in front of the kid, set it next to the new bearing, and continued on his way.

I didn’t say nothing. Just waited for the kid to track down the numbers and wrote out my check.

Paul
 
I just called NH dealer in OKC, and he FINALLY found it. They made them from 59 to 61. Then apparently they came out with the #271 from 61 to 64. Where the Tulsa dealer said some parts were not made anymore, The guy in OKC said that they could get all parts for balers. Not so with older tractors.
 
I use a NH271 some times good to know about how old the fence row baler is. I call it a fence row baler since that is where I pulled it out of and got it working again
 
Paul, Im gonna look on U tube to see if anybody has a vid of one. See if its like the one we had, that had shot wheel bearings, and a wad board that would nail you if you wernt thinking about it. It didnt have the shield for it on our bailer.
 
The only New Holland baler to have a wad board was the 66 or S66 And something was wrong if you got hit with that wadboard.
 
LOL

That brings back memories. Dad bought one of those monstrosities of a 77 baler after the gearbox broke on the NH 66. First time he started it up and it tried to tie and the pusher arm up on top stopped like they did when they tied, he thought something was broke. We high tailed it over to a guy east of town who had one and asked him if he knew what was going on.

Worst thing you could do was kill the engine. He carried a belt so he could slip the belts off the engine and start it with the tractor pulley. Mercifully, it caught fire in the field and put itself out of our misery.
 
No Leroy, The wad board was ment to come out the side around 16.18in. It had a shield on one side so as to protect someone walking near it, but the shield was gone. That part of it worked fine. One side tied fine. Dad had a guy come out from somewhere to work on it, and he got it to tie, but it quit again and dad had me to tie one side all through the field nearly.
 
That distance your wadboard was sticking out so far explains a lot. The wadboard cover is only 12-14" outside bale chamber and about equal to outside of right tire. Somebody did not understand how to adjust the wadboard and a wonder it ever fed the hay in adjusted like that And that tells me why the cover was missing. And that tying problem was easy to fix. Just pull plunger out and replace the wore out wood slides and it would have tied good. We had a 66 from second year they were sold new untill 76 when we got a different baler because we wanted the thrower with 3 of us being overcome with heat that last year handling the bales. Later on I got 2 parts balers to assemble one good baler but never got it done till after I had to quit farming. But a simple wadboard adjustment and plunger slides replaced and you would have had a very good baler. I had the wadboard out many a time so I know how they were supposed to be adjusted and that tying problem got so bad was about to give up on it untill Dad decided to try a different repairman. He took one look at it running and said replace those slides, Dad said don't believe it but replace them. He did and without ever touching the knotters it tied perfectly.
 
That distance your wadboard was sticking out so far explains a lot. The wadboard cover iw only 12-14" outside bale chamber and about equal to outside of right tire. Somebody did not understand how to adjust the wadboard and a wonder it ever fed the hay in adjusted like that And that tells me why the cover was missing. And that tying problem was easy to fix. Just pull plunger out and replace the wore out wood slides and it would have tied good. We had a 66 from second year they were sold new untill 76 when we got a different balerbecause we wanted the thrower with3 of us being overcome with heat that last year handling the bales. Later on I got 2 parts balers to assemble one good baler but never got it done till after I had to quit farming. But a simple wadboard adjustment and plunger slides replaced and you would have had a very good baler. I had the wadboard out many a time so I know how they were supposed to be adjusted and that tying problem got so bad was about to give up on it untill Dad decided to try a different repairman. He took one look at it running and said replace those slides, Dad said don't believe it but replace them. He did and without ever touvhing the knotters it tied perfectly.
 
YUP, it was a 66. I just saw one where a guy is starting a engine in the baler and it shows the wad board, again without the protective shield.
 
Leroy, IF the wad board was the problem, how come one side tied bales perfectly and one side didnt?
 
ALSO, Leroy, Im just guessing at how far the wad board came out. I was in HS then and im 72 now. I never measured it then, and am just guessing at it now.
 
It would not stuffthe hay in equally and do like they say banna bales now and one side tighter than the other could make tying problems but it would with not stuffing equally want to tip plunger making it wate harder on the wood slides on one side, leaving that side to jump up and down more keeping it from positioning twine correctly to grab and tye. Wadboard out too far would not fill left side of bale chamber as full as the right side. The chain that drives the wadboard has to be timed correctly, then there are 3 adjustment spots on the chane about 2" either way from center that is where 99.99% of the time it should be kept. Was away from computor for the past week.
 
Had a problem yesterday with calling up for parts New Holland 68 baler. They said it was never made and they kept saying that. Needed a roller bearing for the pickup.
 

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