McCormick Deering No.7 and No.9

Hi, I am new to this forum and I had a couple of questions for those of you who know a lot about horse drawn McCormick Deering mowers. I recently acquired my great-grandfather's No.7 Regular Gear mower that had been sitting in a side shed behind my house for decades. My great-grandfather had converted the mower to tractor drawn (and it will stay like this, I have no intention of using horses). I'm not sure what he pulled it with, but I am pulling it with a John Deere H in 2nd gear, so I don't believe that over-speeding should be a problem, considering top speed in that gear is 2.44 miles per hour. I have checked the oil and greased it, then tried it and was excited to find out that it worked. I have cut a little bit without sharpening the sickle, which obviously yielded less than satisfactory results, but even then it cut really good. It does have one slight problem. It leaks oil out of the gearbox onto the little flywheel that actuates the sickle. From what research I've done, this is a very common issue that comes from the flywheel's bushing wearing out. My grandfather told me that it's been leaking for a long time, and they had to refill it almost every time they mowed. I intend to fix that as well. Basically, I have given all this background to ask a question. What are the good, bad, and ugly "things" about a No. 7 mower. I would like to know because I intend to restore this machine. Also, before I forget, my aunt has a McCormick Deering No.9 that I would love to restore as well, so if anybody knows anything about those, it would also be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for all those who reply. Chris.

I cut 6 acres of hay one year with horse drawn IH mower behind a BN tractor. Worked good -only problem is had to get on and off the tractor to lift it for the corners. I still get it out and play with it once in a while. I can't remember the model of mine but has a gear box with an oil bath and a 5ft cut. Problem on mine is where the cover closes there is no seal or gasket and it leaks oil there from the gears turning inside. Someday maybe I will have a manual and find out what's missing.

For the speed I cannot compair that to your tractor but the corect speed would be just a normal walking speed for you as a horse walked at the same speed as a person, when you would look at a walking plow being used you can see that. Now the mowers the No. 7 is older than the No. 9 with the 9 being the last model ever built. And you can easily get all the seals and bearings for either one of them. If you need help for that I can help you. I have an Amish friend that has a machine shop and is in the implement bussiness speclaizing in horse drawn mowers and the most desireable are the Nos. 7 & 9 followed by the Deere Big 4. The 9 has dogs in the wheels for turning that the 7 does not have as it has things in the gear box to do that. The 7 is more toung heavy that the 9 with the way the gearbox is made. I have but not in front of me the years the 7 was made and the year the 9 was started but have not yet found a ending year. I do have the dealer parts books. And you are looking at mowers field ready with horse toung retailing in the $1,500 range depending on hoe they are equiped. And thet were avaiblr in 5, 6 & 7 cut. That oil leak problem could be just from the front of mower not being high enough off the ground and not holding the oil where it belongs. To see if the front is as high as it should be just follow what would be the toung out 11' and the front end of that 11' should be 36" off the ground. On your cut off toung and your tractor you need a drop hitch to set the mower at the correct level. Don't know if I ansewerd any of your questions.

A horse farmer/writer/publisher by the name of Lynn Miller in Oregon wrote a book telling how to adjust, repair, rebuild the McCormick numbers 7 & 9 and Deere 4. Actually much more informative than the manuals, which are available on ebay, etc. kelly

If the mower is not at the right angle, would it leak only when it's cutting or all of the time? I'm almost 100% positive that it's the horse drawn tounge just cut shorter with the two "jaws" for the tractor hitch. I'll try to put in a picture, but I'm trying to post this from my phone and there are times when it gets contrary. Chris

https://smallfarmersjournal.com/small-farmers-market/horsedrawn-mower-book/

Here's a picture of the mower

I think you need that toung about 8" higher to put the bodu of the mower on correct level and not only will it afect the oil level will affect the preformance of the cutter bar, The tilt lever should be set in the middle to get the best cut and as low as the front is you are probably at the end of the tilt range, And yes it would leak all the time if too low as long as the oil lever was high enough to reach the spot it comes out of, if oil level was low enough it would not leak setting it could still leak from the oil being splashed around inside the gear case to get it up to leak level. The cutter bar-knife parts are the same from 1895 to end of pitman mowers as long as it is not a side mount then I think the head would be different. In other words the head, head clamp, sections, knife back, guards, hold downs and wear plates all the same along with the swathboard. The only thing on the cutter bar that might be different would be the skid shoes but I think they are the same, especially the outer one. Would have to find my operators manual but I am thinking it calls for 20 weight oil. Not gear lube.

Leroy it does sit a bit higher now that it's on the tractor, though not much. How high would you say that the pitman arm and that rod in front of them need to be off the ground when it's hitched up. I have been a bit suspicious on that, because when I pull it, the front sets low to the ground. I'd hate to have to build a completely new hitch, but if that's what it takes then that's what I'll do. I'm going to try to figure out everything I can about this mower first before I try to build a tractor hitch for the No.9 I may end up getting. Thank you so much for your help, I really appreciate it. Chris.

Also, if I got the bushing/seal (whatever it is) fixed, would that stop the leaking, or would it still leak if it's too low. Sorry for all the questions, I don't know a whole lot about these types of mowers yet, and I'm trying to learn, best I can. Thanks again, Chris.

A horse pole is around 12ft long. Take a 12ft 2 X 4 or whatever and clamp it onto your tongue. At the far end of the tongue it should be 3ft therebouts above the ground. Measure the highth of your tractor drawbar and find the difference between the highth of the mower tongue and the drawbar and build a drop hitch to accomidate the tractor drawbar.
As to it stopping the leaking, by this time, with it being run for so long with the hitch its got, I very much doubt that anything as a quick fix will stop it.

Just what I was going to say

I have several MCD No. 9 mowers I use with a team of horses. The 9's are "newer" than the 7's but both will cut well if set up and adjusted properly. The lead, register, condition of the sections and guards, etc. is critical to optimum performance as with any sickle mower. Less than perfect will work, but it goes downhill from there. Lynn Miller's book on horse drawn mowers, as previously referenced, is a good resource. The date of manufacture on the MCD No. 9 is located on the underneath side of the "tongue pocket/axle" casting. If you lay on your back and slide your head underneath, from the rear of the machine, the date can be read. Photo shows mowing some late 4th crop alfalfa with a MCD No. 9 a few years back.

Does anybody have a picture from the side of a No.7 that is hitched to horses. I ask because when I looked at the mower yesterday the toolbox was exactly parallel with the ground. I wondered if this correct as far as the level was. I do not mean to ignore any of the suggestions you guys had for me, but when I went up there, I was on a mission for my mother and I didn't have time for anything but a quick glance. Also, since I'm still in high school, I basically only have Saturday to mess with it. I intend to get the actual sickle out of it tomorrow and sharpen the sections. The guards seem about perfect, the rust has been coming off pretty good now that it has been used. The main thing for me right now is to get it mechanically sound and right, cut hay with it some this year to double check that I won't have anything major happen right after I get it painted, then paint it. I want to take this time also to thank each and every one of those that have replied for helping me out in this endeavor. Chris.

The tool box being parallel to the ground does not mean anything, the tool box was placed in the casting in the easiest way possible to make the frame casting and they were never full enough for items to roll out even if it was tilted some.

Tool box level has zilch to do with proper mower level. Fix the seal and the leak will stop. A good one won't leak even with the tip of the pole on the ground.

You can get an operators manual off Ebay for not much $$$. They give all the info you're looking for.

Well, I checked the old mower and it does appear that the tounge is up high enough now that it's on the old tractor. Thanks for you guys help and I'll try to get some pictures of it mowing this summer for you. Chris.

I am restoring a No. 9 mower, and could use a few tips. Would also like to watch someone mow alfalfa with it. From the looks of you April 2017 posted photo, I would guess you are in Utah or Idaho. Where are you located?

My post of moments ago was directed to Suffolk1