Massey 120 baler again

Replaced the left side knotter this morning and still no luck with it working right. Only thing really there I see to adjust is the spring tension on the yoke holding pressure against the knotter. Just like the old knotter I repaired when the needle got out of align and hit it a couple years ago this replaced part will let it pass a few bales okay and then the twine will go in between the knotter and the yoke instead of over the top like it should.

Could the new needle need bent more toward the right so it's closer to the part of the knotter that catches the twine ?
Just watched this video on youtube and this baler ( not mine ) is starting to show the same problem on the left hand side. The baler in the video is half way going inside the knotter while mine goes all the way out of sight.
Thanks for any help given, I'm at the end of the rope with this baler.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P49NgF2cMcg
 

On my 224 the needle is supposed to just touch knotter going by, and the needle needs to come something like 1/2 inch from the twine disc as it goes by. Do you have a manual? I don't know what the yoke is, unless maybe it tensions the twine disc. You need to go step by step through the adjustments. You can't just adjust one thing at a time.
 
" I don't know what the yoke is, unless maybe it tensions the twine disc." Yes this is the part the twine is going under ( or in between ) instead of over the top of the knotter. I don't have a manual of any type for help. I'm thinking the new needle isn't close enough to the knotter although it's catching the twine each and every time... I've even tried setting the tension of how hard the twine is to pull and no luck of it staying on top the knotter as it should.
Thanks so much for your reply.
 
Sounds like the twine discs are not holding the twine after a few bales and then the plunger stroke pulls it under. Feasible? I have a manual for my 124. I?ll look and see if it mentions anything.
 
I have a manual for mine 1 check twine tension spring 1.5 inch washer to frame. 2 remove all hay remove pin from clevis holding needle frame.3 rotate frame by hand untill needles are next to knotter frame needles should rub slightly on frame. 4continue to rotate swing frameanc check clearance of fixed roller of needle to twine disc and twine retainer. clearance should be 1/16-1/8 inch, if not adj. when done return frame and install pin in clevis.
 
I agree with Jacksun 65 on checking the twine tension where it comes out of the clamp at the box. Should take 10# of pull; a LOT more than you would think.
I'm trying to upload two pages from the manuals for you. If you don't see them here, send me an email and i'll do it that way. I love my 124, been good to me.
cvphoto24332.jpg


cvphoto24333.jpg
 
Thanks again so much for all the replies... I'm having a little trouble reading the manual pages posted here online. My email address is [email protected] if you would please send them to me that way it would be a big help.
I installed the new needle about 3 years ago and the baler has sit inside unused since then. Older brother and I ran a few bales through it at that time and noticed the problem I'm having now but blamed it on bad/ old twine. Dad passed away last winter so now I'm back to getting it up and running again to bale a little hay this season. I've installed new twine so that's not the problem.
I forgot until you mentioned it that the whole needle assembly can be brought up by hand to see how close they come to the knotter. I ran bales of hay through this thing yesterday for 3 hours running to back to see what happened each time the knotter tripped. I'd cut the twines and run it by hand turning the fly wheel until the needles topped out to see if there might be a difference side to side. I'd then thread the twines again and give it another try while adjusting the spring tension on the knotter.
Right side doesn't miss a beat but the left will about every 3rd bale run the twine between the tension hold down and the knotter.

The youtube video I found online will give you an idea of what I'm dealing with. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P49NgF2cMcg

This baler is at my Dads farm 35 miles away so tomorrow I hope to bring it back outside and spend a couple more hours trying some of the things shared with me here.
I'm thinking the new needle might not be close enough to the knotter. It catches every time but maybe having it positioned a little different might cure the twine from going under the tension Y that holds pressure on the knotter.
Thanks again...
 
Thanks again so much for all the replies... I'm having a little trouble reading the manual pages posted here online. My email address is [email protected] if you would please send them to me that way it would be a big help.
I installed the new needle about 3 years ago and the baler has sit inside unused since then. Older brother and I ran a few bales through it at that time and noticed the problem I'm having now but blamed it on bad/ old twine. Dad passed away last winter so now I'm back to getting it up and running again to bale a little hay this season. I've installed new twine so that's not the problem.
I forgot until you mentioned it that the whole needle assembly can be brought up by hand to see how close they come to the knotter. I ran bales of hay through this thing yesterday for 3 hours running to back to see what happened each time the knotter tripped. I'd cut the twines and run it by hand turning the fly wheel until the needles topped out to see if there might be a difference side to side. I'd then thread the twines again and give it another try while adjusting the spring tension on the knotter.
Right side doesn't miss a beat but the left will about every 3rd bale run the twine between the tension hold down and the knotter.

The youtube video I found online will give you an idea of what I'm dealing with. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P49NgF2cMcg

This baler is at my Dads farm 35 miles away so tomorrow I hope to bring it back outside and spend a couple more hours trying some of the things shared with me here.
I'm thinking the new needle might not be close enough to the knotter. It catches every time but maybe having it positioned a little different might cure the twine from going under the tension Y that holds pressure on the knotter.
Thanks again...
 
I fought mine for way too long also. I finally took my manual to the baler, ran cycle after cycle by hand, and measured every setting outlined in the manual. I finally found some things out of spec I never would have found and it rarely misses a bale now. Changing parts without knowing they re not right probably won t work.
 

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