JD 44 H plow adjustment question

Hello!

This weekend will be my first plow day with a 44H plow...

I have a 44A that I have used quite a bit but it doesn?t have the hitch rod and spring like the 44H does. So I am reading the manual and it says the double nuts should be spaced approximately 1? from the back of the rod guide ?under normal plowing?...

So my question is do I adjust for that 1? before I head into the field? Or should that be adjusted with the plows in the ground?

Other than that I have everything pretty well adjusted and ready. Hoping these will work well. My 44A was a decent plow but no matter how much I tweeked I could never get it to plow quite as well as either my Oliver 100 Trip or My IH #8. Thanks for looking in, I look forward to some good advice!

Also a related question:

The land wheel had quite a bit of play...

Disassembly found no gaskets, a sizable amount of play in the pin that retains the sleeve and only one of the two washers.

Called Deere and both gaskets and washers: pt # 23882A are not serviced. So I made two gaskets, found some pipe that fit...kind over the sleeve and cut a thin slice as a temporary fix for this weekend and packed it full of grease.

After plowday I will drill the axle and sleeve holes out round, and cut a new larger pin, but my question is: are those washers just a regular machine washer that I might find at TSC or through McMaster-Carr? Or are they something proprietary to Deere?

Make your own oversized pins or TSC and drill out sleeve and drive in new pins. The washers come in different thickness' and are available from JD I have my invoice here in front of me when I bought mine last summer. Should be three on ea wheel at least. Caution...you do not want those wheels to be "tight" as in no slack at all. They were designed to have a little slack. That worn pin is most of the problem with these.You will get some slack when you grab tires and rock plow from side to side. They have to have some slack with a sleeve type bearing like this. JD does have them...get another parts man.21600 and 23882....one is for rear tail wheel and other is for front wheels. Actually, they are interchangable. Four of them cost me $ 18.40 tax and all.

Thank You very much...I will try another dealer...

The long time parts guy at the local Industrial Dealer was a fellow club member, he left after 30 some years there when they changed hands. Our local L&G Dealer wouldn?t know a 2 cylinder existed if it wasn?t a Kohler lol. I thought by providing them part numbers maybe they could come with them🙁

Adjust that rod to where it just carries the tail wheel to field and get plow in furrow, then adjust it just so that it does not try to hold the tail wheel up from furrow bottom so the wheel turns all the time. You might have to adjust tractor drawbar height to get that position and then that it lifts enough to carry the tail wheel safly on the road. I had a 44H for a time but too many years to remember just how that was made. Other plow we had for years could not figure out why the tail wheel was skipping the turning all the time while plowing. We had tried to adjust that for the skipping problem and finally found out that behind the JD B tractor the drawbar had to be turned down instead of up to get rid of the skiping and still raise enough for transportation. I sold bot plows years ago. The JD I actually sold to an Indiana State police man that I got to talking to after he led the tractor parade through town at tractor show. Now to get to the ironic part When he came to Ohio to pick it up his trailer was shch a junk pile I would not have pulled it for 10 mile empty. We finally did get it loaded and he tied it down, big question is was it even tied down? If the YT Dot would have seen how it was loaded on a questionable homemade trailer they would have had a quadruple fit it was that bad and remember this was the state police and the guy to give you a ticket for not having a secure load yet he was the one that should have given himself the ticket.

Thank You!