R & R front end loaders

Sometime back there was a discussion about taking off and re-installing front end loaders on tractors. Someone posted pictures of a fixture he'd made, the tractor was driven forward until the loader bucket slid into the fixture at ground level then, after the the necessary clamps/bolts/whatever, were loosened the bucket was rolled-back to lift the loader clear of the tractor.

I have had zero luck with the removal braces Dunham-Lehr provided for their model 22 loader on my tractor so would like to build a copy of the fore mentioned loader removal fixture. Last time my loader was off it required a boom on another tractor and last time it was installed it took a neighbors New Holland tractors 800lb rear tire parked in the bucket to anchor the loader for re-installation.

If it is inside, just use a small block and tackle suspended over the loader.
Ben

That's what I do. One on each side. If I just use one,the muffler is in the way of backing away.

Don't have anything overhead strong enough to handle a hoist. Need to fix that.

Something is wrong if you are having those problems. My loader was not the 22 as it had 2 bucket cylinders and mine just had a single cylinder but same otherwise and NO BIG PROBLEM mounting and dismounting it. Actually easy to mound I just had to have an extension set of hoses to put in to lengthon the hoses so I could control both the frame up and down at same time as the tilt of the bucket. Do you have hoses long enough to reach the hydrolic valve with the loader setting on front of the tractor? If you do you should be having no problem mounting, if not and you have to unhook the hoses before you remove it then get those rxtension hoses and that should solve your problem. I had to put a plank under both parking stands as without that tractor was just a bit to high to work. Those extension hoses were same ones I used when pulling a second hydrolic lift unit behind the tractor.

I owned a Dunhem- Leir 22 loader for over twenty years. It was one of the first quick-tach loaders sold around here. The stands/legs have to be on something solid. I used a five foot long treated 2 x 12 to set under the legs. It took less than 10 minutes to remove the loader.

1)Put the stands on the loader boom.
2)Lower the boom until the stands are setting on the ground.
3) Roll/dump the bucket forward until the bucket is lightly lifting the stands.
4) Remove the bolts from the attaching straps.
5) Put the tractor in reverse. Raise the boom up just enough for the loader back brackets to miss the mounts. You will need to back up just a little while doing this. Also you will need to roll the bucket forward or backwards to keep the stands and cutting edge on the ground. This way the loader is stable.
^) Unhook the hoses and back out of the loader.

I found that you might need higher or lower blocks/boards under the stands depending on the tractor the loader is mounted on. Using the exact same spot every time helps too. It needs to be flat/level and long enough for the entire tractor to set level. My Brother had the same loader and had some trouble until he figured out his spot had the tractor going up in the back. Found a more level spot and not trouble. He still has the tractor and loader.

Don't you have a tree with an over hanging limb??? That is where the phrase "Shad Tree Mechanic" came from.
Loren

I removed and installed a 735 loader from/to a 3 cylinder Ford 4000 using nothing more than 500 lbs in the bucket, a 2 ton engine hoist and a couple
bottle jacks. If it?s gotta happen it can be done.

Scott, simple fix. Put it in a crate and ship it to me. I will pay the freight. Problem solved. Or just buy another tractor so you don't have to dismount the loader.

(quoted from post at 22:59:10 01/22/19) Scott, simple fix. Put it in a crate and ship it to me. I will pay the freight. Problem solved. Or just buy another tractor so you don't have to dismount the loader.

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Brake job is about done, next is a compression test, otherwise I'd leave it be. Suspect the test will reveal engine work is in order.

Back to R & Ring the loader, the legs that are supposed to allow removing it... they and the bucket move away from each other when the bucket is rolled back to raise the loader off its mounts. The legs don't stop against anything. I'm a somewhat mechanically fluent guy (or maybe not!) but I can not come up with a way to mount the cotton pickin' Rube Goldberg inspired legs so they'll lock/wedge/stay in place.

Regarding your offer: I offered you a venison meal as well as cigars and beer a while back if you wanted to make a trip east. Even after a less than successful 2018 deer season the offer still stands. Bring a trailer, you may be taking a tractor with you.

Scott. will try to take some pics of one of mine sitting off the tractor. Stands should not move if the lock bolts are tight. When I take mine off, I usually set the stands on a 2" x 12" board. Unless someone used it for something else.

(quoted from post at 12:20:43 01/24/19) Scott. will try to take some pics of one of mine sitting off the tractor. Stands should not move if the lock bolts are tight. When I take mine off, I usually set the stands on a 2" x 12" board. Unless someone used it for something else.

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That'd be great. In case it is easier to do via cell phone to email instead of to the forum, my work email is: [email protected]

did you get it figured out? do you have the manual? i have a 22 and the manual, and have had the loader off a few times. everything is like said in this thread...