King Kutter back blade

TomIn

Member
I've got a several year old 6' King Kutter back blade. The blade seems to be level when it is set "straight" (at a 90 degree angle to the direction of travel.) However, when I turn the blade to an angle, one side of the blade drops lower. When plowing snow, this causes the lower edge of the blade to dig into my driveway.

I can't really see how this blade was constructed and/or how it can be adjusted. Does anyone have any experience with this?
 
Depending which way you angle the blade, use the adjustment on your 3 pt.lift link and raise the side with the leading edge until it cuts level.

Pete
 
Normal. Usually takes a combination of top link and lift arm adjustments to get the way you like it.
 
Let me try and explain my problem again. The back blade "implement" has two basic parts. The first is the "frame" that attaches to the tractor. I fully understand how I can adjust the top link and lift arms to control the position of the "frame".

The other part of the "implement" is the blade itself. I can't see how the blade is attached to the "frame", but I would think that top of the blade should remain parallel to the bottom of the frame no matter how the blade is turned. My problem is that the relationship between the top of the blade and the bottom of the frame changes rather drastically as the blade is turned. I realize that this implement is not a precision piece of machinery, but I would like to know if there is any way to reduce the amount of "run out" when the blade is rotated. It doesn't seem like it should be necessary to make major adjustments to the top link and lift arms every time I turn the blade.
 
(quoted from post at 11:20:23 11/21/18)
but I would think that top of the blade should remain parallel to the bottom of the frame no matter how the blade is turned. .
That is where you're incorrect. Or at least partially. The bottom of the frame may appear parallel to the ground, but it's not. That angle is magnified when you rotate the blade, because it's "longer", Front to back. I'm not sure any of that made sense, but what you're seeing is normal.
 
I had a 7 foot back blade from TSC for one year to plow snow with an MF 35, by spring the cutting edge was bending away from the rest of the blade and the pivot was bent back about 10 degrees. I sold it for what little it would fetch, the steel was too thin and too soft and bendable.
Zach
 
Sounds like your pivot point is bent or is worn. Some designs have basically a large bolt that attaches the blade to the frame and is the pivot. Might try tightening the large nut or straightening the "bolt" if it is your design. Other type I've seen is a pipe rotating inside another pipe. Dont know an easy way to correct the wear on this type.
 
Your description of one pipe rotating inside another pipe is exactly what mine looks like. The OD of the inner pipe is quite a bit smaller that the ID of the outer pipe. When the blade is set "straight", the gap between the inner and outer pipes looks pretty consistent all the way around. When the blade is angled, the gap between the two pipes appears much larger on one side than on the opposite side.

I bought this blade new five or ten years ago, but have rarely used it. I would be surprised if it has had ten hours total use, so I would not expect much "wear".

I can't see how the implement was constructed. There has to be something that keeps the inner pipe from sliding out of the outer pipe. (When I look at the paint on the inner pipe, it appears that the paint has been worn off the inner pipe below the lowest point on the outer pipe. This would seem to indicate that the inner pipe HAS slid down about 1/2" or more since the blade was manufactured.)
 
The ones I've seen are welded together top and bottom. The top of the inner pipe is welded to the bottom of the adjustment plate. The plate that you put the pin in to hold it at an angle. Bottom of the inner pipe is welded to back of the blade and associated bracing. Not much adjusting or snugging up to do.
 
Simple thing is you have to adjust your top link to get it to set level when you swing it and if it does not set level like that you have wrong tilt to blade for it to work going straight the way it should. The wrong tilt is what makes the washboard effect. For grading a drive you want the front end of blade lower than the back end to get the crown effect on the drive, you do not want a drive level so water justs on it, you want the crown so the water will run off.
 
Its sounds like you just need to adjust your side link on the three point to either raise or lower one side or the other depending on the angle of the blade. I have to on the blades I have used from when I'm not just running it straight if I want to keep the cut level.
 

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