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273 shear bolts coming loose

M

MSS3020

Well-known Member
Ive noticed this year esp.. that while baling I would loose the shear bolts.. NOT BRAKE.. the nut comes off and the
bolt works out.. slip clutches are in good shape and adjusted properly.. not a huge issue just a little pain.. I use
new N.H. shear bolts too...use nuts that come with bolts..appear to be locking nuts..

any others experience this..
 
You say appear to be locking nut but are they for sure locking nuts. If they are true lock nuts you should have to use a wrench to tighten them shortly after putting the nut on. If you can screw them on past the end of the bolt then you have some bad lock nuts
 
Thats what I dont get..I cant put them on with hand.. I carry two open ends in the toolbox on baler just for this purpose.. have to use them to tighten.. dont get it.. I know I could ping the threads and keep it put but the nuts should do it..
 
now you have me thinking.. Ill check them out when I get home..maybe I just happen to have couple regular nuts mixed in???I dont use them very often.. so they were in the tool box when I bought it 15 years ago..LOL
 
I had similar problems on my NH 282 flywheel shearbolt. Several places to check: bushing in flywheel that bolt goes through(if there is one on 273) If it is "warbled out" it will allow bolt to work some. Also check drive flange that bolt goes through. Center bushing in flywheel may be worn. check how much flywheel can move in and out, can put washers behind it to take up slack. My baler wouold "wear out" shear bolts, sometimes they would break with no load on them until I tightened everything up. Shear bold still seems to want to loosten some but not near as bad as it did, I tighten it when I get off to check something on baler. My shear bolts do have lock nuts on them, I would imagine yours do too. They are the kind that are sort of round on top.
 
Both holes the shear pin goes through are egged out some on my 270, and the flywheel should be shimmed a bit.

I need to put a pair of nuts on the shear pin and lock them to each other tight. A lock nut by itself will wear loose. There are just too many places to wobble a bit, and once wobble starts, it works on the nut, even a lock nut.

Go through the steps mentioned to square up the holes and keep the flywheel true. Or double nut the pin and carry a few extra.

Paul
 

You need to have them really TIGHT to hold the force of the turning flywheel. It is not so much the bolt itself as the friction between the flywheel and the flange generated by the tightness of the nut and bolt that holds the torque.
 

Agree with Showcrop. THey have to be tight. I bet your shear bolt bushing in the flywheel is worn out. Not hard to replace.
 
I for sure would check that flywheel bushing. That said, if I had hay on the ground and time was short...then I would double nut the bolt if there is enough threads to do so.
 
Just use locking nuts, like the nylon insert ones. Other thing that works for me is to install it so there is some slop....leave nut loose. Seems that if you lock it down tight, especially with worn mechanisms, it tends to shear easer when it would only take a dent (Grade 2) otherwise and keep on holding.
 
cant be a locking nut if its unscrewing its self. lots of types of locknuts. shear pins usually have the two way locknut. means it locks in the centre of the thread. couple other common ones are the nylock and the stover nut.
 
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