disk-chisels - straight vs. concave blades

Fordfarmer

Well-known Member
A disk-chisel has been on my wish list for a few years now. This past spring, my cousin let me borrow his JD 714 to try it out. (he has it for sale) Did a nice job, but it has that green paint effect on the price. I found one made by Glencoe... same size (9 shank), for about half the price. seems to have had little use. Biggest difference I saw right off was the Glencoe has straight disk blades in a straight row, while the JD has concave blades with the gangs angled like you'd find on a disk. Is there going to be any significant difference in how it works the ground? Or power requirements? Primary use would be on corn stubble, with some use on sod after being burned down. I've heard of guys using them on green sod, but can't see how that would make a satisfactory seed bed.
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I had a Glencoe SoilSaver for a few years. Stalks should be chopped after combing for plug-free operation. Plus it"s just better for next year"s crop because the stalks pieces are smaller and rot quicker. I"ve had a White 435 since then, and I like the individually sprung curved discs on it...works around rocks much better. With the Glencoe- any rock you hit has to raise the entire gang to get over it...much harder on the axle shafts than individually sprung. Maintains level of the machine better, more uniform tillage with the 435.
 
I run a 9 shank Glenco SS right now. Ditto on chopping stalks before using it but it?s still a good plow. Ive also run a Deere like that one you have pictured and I can tell you two things. First the concave blades will pull harder, but they do handle trash better, and second the concave blades tend to ridge worse, or at least they did on that Deere plow. If I had my druthers ide like to have a 435 white with the individually sprung coulter?s but those generally bring pretty good money.
 
Well your talking about a JD disk chisel and a Glenco Coulter chisel. The Glenco will not handle corn stalks very well unless they are shredded. They also will not cut the stalks up very well unless you go at an angle to the corn rows. The Glenco will pull easier but not that much easier. As for the difference in price. It has little to do with the Brand it is more what they are. A coulter chisel is just worth less money than a disk chisel.

So if you want to shred your stalks then go with the coulter chisel. IF not then buy a disk chisel.
 
Thanks for the info.
I've seen a couple of teh White disk-chisels at auctions, and they DO bring good money. Hopefully I'll get a chance to look over the Glencoe in person in the next couple weeks.
 
Mr. JD Seller sir, I don't think this is off topic....with respect to the comment about disc shape mentioned herein, I was always wondering why JD has conical discs and regular (what ever you call them) shaped discs. Here we use large diameter (20-22" for numbers) disc harrows/one ways for plows in the black clay to keep from gumming up too bad. Always wondered if a conical blade would cut better than the regular disc.

Would you comment on the specific designed use of the conical blade please?
Thanks,
Mark
 
The cone blades are more aggressive. That, combined with the (typically) wider blade spacing, made for more dirt movement (and a headache for the Parts Department- twice as many parts to stock). The spherical blades were more for finishing. Some model tandem disks (and I suppose all of them aftermarket) could be specified with 7" or 9" blade spacing and either spherical or cone blades, though I don't know why someone would want cone blades on the 7" spacing.
 
re: Your comment about making a satisfactory seedbed. This is a primary tillage tool. You should not expect to not need additional 'sizing' passes before planting. At least a field cultivator or a disk- and better add some sort of harrow/crumbler/packer, depending on what you're planting, should give you a seedbed.
 
Yes, I realize it would need another trip or two across the field after the disk-chisel. I just can't see how it would not leave clumps of sod all over the place, even if you ran a disk across it after... and a lot of that would be green side up, so it could just start growing again.
 
Ok, thanks. Makes sense on the spacing. My discs are at 7" with 20" blades max and my oneway is 22" and 9" spacing both with spherical.
 

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