Re: Hesston 1070 haybine. How the heck do I fix this sprock

I believe I replaced mine and welded it on.

Most Hesston sprockets and sheaves wer held in place with Gibb keys. You drive the sprocket onto the shaft a bit to free the tapered key and then pull the key with a Gibb key puller. If you don't have the puller you will have to improvise with a crowsfoot or some other tool to pull the key out of the shaft. Then the sprocket should come off with a puller.
Loren

I have never worked on one but have some new and used parts. Emails open, I think.

IF the shaft is relatively smooth and round, clean it up as best you can wth a file and some emery paper. Measure the shaft, micrometer, if you
have one, or buy a cheap caliper. Then, cough up the money for the closest size of taper lock hub and sprocket combination. It won?t be cheap.
Be warned, the taper lock has to fit the shaft pretty closely, or you will have trouble with it. Be sure that the key is tight, or do something like a
spot of weld to keep it in place.

I have been using this system for over ten years on my 1091 Hesston, and have replaced the hub, but not the sprocket, about three times. This
is mowing 50-75 acres a year.

Depending on your finances, your use of the machine, and the condition of the rest of the drive, you may want to replace the other sprockets
and the chain at the same time.

Not sure about your machine, my experience is with the 1070/PT7/PT10 machines. I have had the rollers out of all of them for the same type of problem.

One roller has to come out before the other will. If you are lucky, that is the one you need to work on. You may as well plan on replacing bearings at the same time, as you may have to destroy them to get the roller out.

The basic idea is to remove any chains, belts, sheetmetal, that may be attached or in the way. Be sure to take the tension off the rolls. Then loosen the bearings on the shaft. There is a lock collar with a set screw in it, loosen the setscrew,then take a punch and drive the collar in the direction opposite the rotation of the shaft, if it won't move try the other direction. Depending on your patience, this is where "destroy" begins. Unbolt the bearing flanges, and try to slide the bearings off the shaft, or destroy. The next part is just bull strength and ignorance, slide the roller out of the frame, toward the end away from the drive. Some sort of hoist, a loader, forklift, or a pile of cribbing is necessary. The steel roll WILL slide off a fork lift endways unless you restrain it. Don't ask me how I know.

You can build the shaft up by welding and grinding back down,I've done them before.Find a piece of pipe that snuggly fits over the correct size of the shaft and use it as a guide as you weld and grind back down, somewhat time consuming but beats taking a machine apart getting it built up sometimes.