Thrower Belt Burning up Twine and a couple other questions..

lastcowboy32

Well-known Member
So, we finally made some bales with the NH269 that we bought a couple of weeks ago. The one that was mothballed indoors for about ten years.

Good news?
Well...we replaced the upper thrower belt housing mounts; because the old ones were so loose that the drive belt could jump; when I either turned the PTO on or off. That was a success. We now have perfect thrower operation. No drive belt jumping... all good.

The knotters only needed a little greasing and about five bales and some will placed penetrating oil to start to work flawlessly. Where did they need penetrating oil that surprised me? The pivot for the tucker fingers... there is no grease zerk... must be a little corrosion had worked its way in there; and they are really only reset by spring pressure. They weren't resetting between bales. Like I said... after completely missing about five knots and me identifying that the fingers weren't resetting.... bam... perfect knots every time.



Bad News?

When I replaced the thrower mounting bolts, I had to rebalance the tension on the top thrower belt. It's running straight.... BUT... I must have moved it ever so slightly from its previous running position and the twine on my bales is hitting fresh belt...as opposed to the grooves worn by the twine on previous bales.

So, I'm getting perfect knots, but we broke about every tenth bale... with a perfect knot and a section of the twine burned through by the belt.

I was stacking in the wagon, so I had my wife go up a gear to ensure that the bales were getting pushed into the knotter quickly...as opposed to waiting. Helped the bales.... gave this old farmboy a workout. Bales were flying pretty fast :)



So... How do I solve this twine burning issue?
Switch to sisal for a while? Does that take the belt better than poly?

Try to eyeball the thrower belt to line up with the bales in the chamber and rebalance the tension to put it in line?

Just wait it out, and let it burn a new groove into the belt?


Another question...

If I can't put this baler indoors for the winter... has anybody ever considered pulling wiper arms and bill hooks for the winter? Seems like the rest of the knotter would do fine with a greasing and then a coating of some oily water repellent. (With the issue of cleaning the twine fingers next spring duly noted)

Worth the time?

Just put some heavy grease on them and cover the knotters with a strong tarp?
 
Where I said "pushed into the knotter quickly".... I meant to say...

"pushed into the thrower quickly"


If you let a bale languish at the entry to the thrower, it can burn through even heavy sisal. I remember that from years ago piling wagons behind my brother using his old NH273...
 
I don?t know...no great advice.

Have had a 273 with a 54A thrower on the farm since new. Never misses a knot, occasionally (1/500) burns a string usually at the end of a
windrow)...

Bought a 273 with a 54A as a backup/2nd baler 8 years ago. Tied flawlessly but burned 1/10 bales...

We tried everything - a ramp in the chamber to change bale angle, changing tension, baling faster, baling slower...
We lined both kickers up side by side and tried to match every clearance and tension...never seemed to get right.

We finally, fixed it...by selling it to a guy who didn?t need a thrower.
 
I don't know what length you are making the bales but too long willmake it do that. The bale MUST EXIT the bale chamber BEFORE the thrower catches it. If it does not exit the bale chamber then it takes too much pull to start the bale pitch and that is what will make it burn things up. Go down to a 30" bale and see if it still does it, if so them you have other problems but I an guessing your bales are comming out at a 36-42" length and the longer bales will bend and come apart a lot easier. If you have the rack on the wagon the shorter bales will stack about as tight as trying to load longer ones by hand. My Baler was a McCormick with rollers to do the pitching instead of the belt like New Holland uses. When we got it it was doing same thing and shortened up the bale and then no more problem.
 
Concerning your winter storage, I have to store my IH 46 outside all the time. I remove any hay and twine, clean out any chaff, dust etc and just put a canvas over it. Fasten it down good with straps. Never had a problem in 30 years doing that. You want to get a good canvas, not the cheap blue ones.
 
(quoted from post at 09:31:29 09/10/18) I don't know what length you are making the bales but too long willmake it do that. The bale MUST EXIT the bale chamber BEFORE the thrower catches it. If it does not exit the bale chamber then it takes too much pull to start the bale pitch and that is what will make it burn things up. Go down to a 30" bale and see if it still does it, if so them you have other problems but I an guessing your bales are comming out at a 36-42" length and the longer bales will bend and come apart a lot easier. If you have the rack on the wagon the shorter bales will stack about as tight as trying to load longer ones by hand. My Baler was a McCormick with rollers to do the pitching instead of the belt like New Holland uses. When we got it it was doing same thing and shortened up the bale and then no more problem.

Leroy.... I think you may have something there. When I bought this baler, it was set for short bales. I immediately adjusted it for the length of bales that I make. Maybe I'll put it back and see if that works.

I also wonder if it's from a rusty bale chamber and maybe it will get better as more bales get pushed through to get things slick again.
 
If you want long bales with a belt thrower you need to rake BIG windrows or shorten the bale length like the others have told you. Usually your throwing them into a hay rack with sides so you can speed up in thinner hay.
 

I usually rake double windrows for our NH276.

I raked single this time; since the NH269 is smaller capacity, and I wanted a little more drying.

After seeing how the NH269 performed, I'm confident that it could have handled the doubles.

I also think I'm going to shorten the bales, at least for a few hundred more, until that chamber gets good and slick; so the bales pull out easier.
 

We are using wagons with racks.

We're cooperating with a neighbor. He wants some hay, he has kicker wagons.... we now have a kicker baler.

I'm confident that things will work out. Just need to get the kinks out of things and get back into kicker baling. That's what I grew up on, but I haven't done any myself in many years.
 
Take a tape measure and see how much distance you have between the end of the bale chamber and the thrower belt. If your bale is longer than that distance it has to try to pull the bale out of the chamber before it can throw it and while it is trying to pull that bale that should be shorter than that distance between the chamber and thrower it definatly will chew up the twine. 30" long bale is ideal for a thrower. Some balers and certain type of hay you can get by with 36" butnever try a 42" bale as you will have nothing but trouble. When we got the New New Holland 66 baler it came from factory set for 36" after several years figured out how to set for 30" bales. Sure you have heard on here about when somebody did not like a piece and the happies day was when it left. Well for us that happyest day was going to 30" bales from the 36" bales.
 

The thrower on my MF was burning twine now and then. A close examination revealed that the upper belt was engaging the bale before the lower. I moved the upper belt back one hole. problem solved.
 
Used sisal with our 273 and 54A thrower when I was growing up because of this problem. It worked good with the sisal but not poly.
 

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