Help registering knife in JD no. 5 mower

pmarkel

Member
Had a little trouble cutting orchard grass with my no. 5 mower. Got a manual and thought I would register the knife. I find that on the outer stroke the knife centers in the gaurd but on the inner stroke the knife falls slightly short of centering in the gaurd. Is this a problem and how might I fix it? I am also missing the adjustable shoe subsoles. Can these be easily fabricated or bought used or do I need to buy new ones? Thanks,

Pete
 
If you have a book it shows how to register knife by moving shims from one side to the other on main arm to assy. where sickle bar hinges.Myself I would not worry as long as section goes across gaurd ledger for clean cut,but if gaurds are bad it my cause trouble.As far as shoe check Mother Deere first they my still have it.Oh and one other item you my have adjust front arm to make sure have proper lead on sickle bar also lead can be adjusted on eccentric on bar pivot pin.Been 25 years since I had one but I still remember how to cut hay with one.Scott
 
"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">on the outer stroke the knife centers in the gaurd but on the inner stroke the knife falls slightly short of centering in the guard. Is this a problem and how might I fix it?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]DRAG BAR, BRACE BAR, AND YOKE[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

a278672.jpg" width="650"


Note the pull bar connection (Key 2), pull bar (Key 3), yoke adjusting washers (Keys 6, 7, 9, 10), drag bar filler collar (Key 8), and drag bar (Key 14B).

Reviewed the [b:654c4848f0]Directions for Setting Up and Operating John Deere Power Mower - Caster Wheel Type DIR. No. 180 Harv. Wks. 2-37[/b:654c4848f0] in the [b:654c4848f0]INSTRUCTIONS FOR ADJUSTING AND OPERATING[/b:654c4848f0] section the [b:654c4848f0]14. REGISTERING KNIFE:[/b:654c4848f0] heading on page 21.

Take a look at the information below.

a278676.jpg" width="650"


You might consider using various combinations of additional yoke adjusting washers to register the knife.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">I am also missing the adjustable shoe subsoles.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Make a call out to [b:654c4848f0]David from Kansas[/b:654c4848f0] on this forum or the John Deere forum for both the adjusting yoke washers and the subsoles.

He has furnished us with many parts for our No. 5 mowers over the years and is a good fellow to work with.

Hope this helps.
 
I should have added that I reviewed the manual and adjusted accordingly but I cannot get it to register even on the return stroke. I moved the washers as suggested which helped on the outward stroke but the inward stroke is still off slightly.
 
James I was hoping you would respond with pics to show.That makes It clearer for him to adjust than my words.Myself it would be no problem if I bought one tomorrow.Man where has the years gone.Scott
 
Regestering the sickle shouldn't be a problem, UNLESS the pitman you have in it is for a different model mower.
 
James I have never fooled with many older JD sickle Mowers much just the newer 350s.

I read the directions twice and still do not understand what your doing that would effect the total travel/stroke/register of the sickle. In his original post he says it lines up when it is fully stroked out BUT it does not come back in enough. So in example: The guards are 3 inch apart. The sickle would need to stroked a minimum of 3 inches to reach the nest guard to be in register. The length of stroke would be determined by the eccentric on the pitman drive off the PTO shaft. What the adjustments the book is showing it is just swinging the mower supports to effectively move the relationship of the pitman inner drive to the bar itself. It looks like forward would move the sickle stroke out and back would move it out. None of it would effect total stroke/register that I can tell.

So what am I missing???
 
"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]The length of stroke would be determined by the eccentric on the pitman drive off the PTO shaft.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

The eccentric is used to adjust the alignment or lead of the cutter bar.

Take a look at the information below.

a278690.jpg" width="650"




"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]What the adjustments the book is showing it is just swinging the mower supports to effectively move the relationship of the pitman inner drive to the bar itself.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Take a look at the information below.

a278692.jpg" width="650"


The adjustable washers are used on the drag bar to either move the yoke IN or OUT in relation to the pitman.

I do not use the brace bar to register the knife because it will affect the lead.

Shortening the brace bar length increases the lead of the cutter bar which decreases drag.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]It looks like forward would move the sickle stroke out and back would move it out.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Removing adjustable washers on the tractor side of the yoke moves the yoke IN and moves the stroke out.

Adding adjustable washers on the tractor side of the yoke moves the yoke OUT and moves the stroke in.

Hope this helps.
 
"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]That makes It clearer for him to adjust than my words.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Having registered the knife on three of our pitman mowers, your advice and description was very accurate.

Experience goes a long way on helping folks with this "[i:654c4848f0]vintage[/i:654c4848f0]" mower.
 
"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]the inward stroke is still off slightly.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Keep the sections sharp and the slightly "[i:654c4848f0]off[/i:654c4848f0]" inward stroke should not cause a problem.

a278693.jpg" width="650"


 
I think we are talking about the same thing, just calling it different names. The brace bar would effect the lead. It seems the directions refer to that and the washers on the other bar to set the register. So the brace bar would effect register but also lead at the same time. Then you would have to correct the lead with the eccentric on the back of the heel.

I miss typed with the term eccentric. I meant the crank throw that actually drives the pitman. The total stroke would be a set dimension. This would not be adjustable on any mower I know of. The adjustments your talking about would move the start and stop point of the stroke but not the distance traveled????

Seems overly complicated compared to more modern mowers.

I know you and others mow hay with sickle mowers an seem to get along fine. I would quit growing hay here IF I had to go back to mowing hay with a sickle bar mower. LOL IT is either damp or the hay is thick/down. Then you add in odd shaped fields to finish many points and the sickles mowers end up dragging clumps of already cut hay. My Disk mower conditioners make cutting easy. They take horsepower but they will cut just about any hay in any condition.
 
"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]The brace bar would effect the lead.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Yes.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]the washers on the other bar to set the register.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Yes.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]So the brace bar would effect register but also lead at the same time. Then you would have to correct the lead with the eccentric on the back of the heel.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Yes.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]the crank throw that actually drives the pitman. The total stroke would be a set dimension.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Yes.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]The adjustments your talking about would move the start and stop point of the stroke but not the distance traveled????[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Exactly.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]I know you and others mow hay with sickle mowers an seem to get along fine.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Got to pay attention and stay alert; no texting while mowing.
 

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