3 pt Tiller

Texasmark1

Well-known Member
Been farming this place for 40 years. Last year I bought a 3 pt. Rototiller. Just don't understand why it took me so long to wise up. I have decided that my plowing tools are going to consist of the following in the following order:

Broadcast any fertilizer requirement. Follow immediately with the Hay King Pasture Renovator to do the deep slicing of my heavy clay, followed by the Rototiller, and then a spike toothed harrow. That's it. Ready to plant.
 
Years ago (when a MF 65 was a new tractor) a neighbor used a tiller for all his farm ground (average size farm at that time) he was the only one around ever to do that. TWP name is clay, does that tell you something. Many brick homes the clay was doug on the farm and bricks made.
 
On a large scale wouldn't that create more compaction problems. I know in our small garden area, after it is tilled, your foot sinks down several inches in the very fine soil particles. That was not a problem when I used a potato fork or spade to turn over the garden plot. After a rain every foot print holds water where the other areas it soaks in. It does create a very good seed bed. But most literature for hay and alfalfa fields call for a FIRM seed bed. Just some random thoughts about roto tilling. gobble
 
I run a power harrow across anything I want a fine seedbed on . It?s a lely rottera 14 foot grandpa bought it in the 70s to run over spud ground about 300 acres a year the neighbors had one to do spud ground but they had a tool bar on the back with furrowers to prepare seedbed and make the bed at the same time I now have both those machines one for parts
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I use planks when I plant,much less compaction or point loading with ones feet. I work off them and move along as I plant, then cover with dried green grass like hay off the lawn. It takes a while for that soil to compact with rains, by that time the plants are well established.
 
It saves several trips with conventional soil prep means, produces a finer/smoother seedbed in one pass and doesn't take a big, heavy tractor to operate...reducing he pressure on the soil from both weight and number of trips. Only heavy tractor required is the one pulling the Renovator. Also, the clay compacts on it's own. Even with annual cultivation/seed bed preparation, every time you go to plant you are dealing with rocks, not rock rocks, but clay hard as rocks, after it has dried out over the summer. Course when do you prep your soil but in the fall after the summer crop is off and you soften up the soil to absorb the winter rains.
 
There are trade offs depending on soil type, rainfall, and what you want to plant into what size field.

Paul
 

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