JD 435 baler Twine and Netwrap problem

Trying to get a new to me 435 going.

It will not tie/wrap with either twine or net. I have tried the automatic setup and the manual pull rope.

The twine pump is full. The valves are all set correctly.

With the bale size adjustment set for ~3' the baler made a 5' bale. Pulled the rope and nothing happened. Dumped the untied bale out and still can not get the twine arms to cycle with the manual rope.

Any suggestions?

To get it to cycle with no bale in it, you have to raise the tension arm to some height so the belt will be capable of tightening to drive the pump. Sorry, you need to get a manual!

Need the manual to see if all the springs are installed in the pump area and how to trouble shoot.

(quoted from post at 19:17:56 05/18/14) To get it to cycle with no bale in it, you have to raise the tension arm to some height so the belt will be capable of tightening to drive the pump. Sorry, you need to get a manual!

Need the manual to see if all the springs are installed in the pump area and how to trouble shoot.

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I've got both operators and service manual. I've set everything to what the manuals say.

I thought I had the tension arm set correctly to test the system and nothing happened. The system will not cycle with a 5 foot bale in the baler.

How long since hyd filter was changed? Are all 5 springs on tying mechanism in place? Have you checked condition of pump drive belt???

Open twine adjustment valve fully open(CCW),with gate locked shut raise tension arm to where you can see 3+ in the bale size window on RH front of baler. IIRC check to be sure spool valve shifts upward(out of) housing when rope is pulled. Check to be sure latch(parts key #45) is unlatched. Engage pto and twine arm should cycle if pump is pumping IE no air in system. After you get twine arm to move then you can re-set twine arm speed control valve.

Packrat, send me an email. Email is open.

Got it to cycle to the right where it hung up on a compressor bar tooth. Adjusted the compressor bar and now can't get it to return.

Where is the oversize bale switch located?

When twine reaches RH side the mechanism pushes on a rod with a clevis that is intended to shift hyd spool valve into the down position. Is this spool valve shifting down?? I've seen dirt & hay build up on spool valve and it's associated mechanism stopping valve from shifting. I'd suggest to spray spool with your favorite penetrating oil.

(quoted from post at 07:22:11 05/20/14) Where is the oversize bale switch located?

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Electrical switches have nothing to do with the twine wrapping operation as they only give operator an idea of what's happening very similar to a speedometer on a vehicle. Parts photo is OS bale switch.

There are valves that you must open and close for swapping between wrap and string...did you have wrap in baler....Jim posted pictures of springs and all must be there for it to work, but you have to switch between wrap and string with valves..also check the 2 grease fittings on the tie arms and make sure that it will travel all the way...have seen the bind and not travel..

(quoted from post at 05:57:12 05/20/14)

(quoted from post at 07:22:11 05/20/14) Where is the oversize bale switch located?

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Electrical switches have nothing to do with the twine wrapping operation as they only give operator an idea of what's happening very similar to a speedometer on a vehicle. Parts photo is OS bale switch.

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Red light came on once with empty baler. Wanted to check switch.

I've seen the OS switch activation arm get dirty causing arm to hang. Did you get twine arms to move back to the LH side??

(quoted from post at 09:25:29 05/20/14) I've seen the OS switch activation arm get dirty causing arm to hang. Did you get twine arms to move back to the LH side??

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Not yet. Won't get another chance to work on it till tomorrow. Have a JD tech coming out Fri to work on it. It pains me to do it but I've got to have going for the weekend.

I would like to get the twine arms back so I can adjust the twine arm switch I replaced before he gets there.

Tech was out today.

Appears the twine pump was toast. Pump had to be ordered and won't be in until in the morning.

Without the pump working the tech had to crack the lines to the twine arm cylinder to get it to return to the start position.


[b:f382c772ce]Murphy's working overtime this year.
[/b:f382c772ce]
We usually put up 50-80% of our hay (20-30 acres) Memorial Day weekend. In previous years we've cut and raked the hay and the guy who farms the neighboring property pulls his baler across the road and rolls it up while he is baling there. This year he has the majority of the property in corn and beans and won't be baling the little hay on it until mid to late July. It's always been fun coordinating job, weather and baler owner, so we decided to break down and get a larger tractor and baler and do it all ourselves. We anticipated having to work the kinks out of a 20 year old used baler but weather and family illness took a chunk of the time between delivery and when we wanted to start baling the real hay.

Then when I got started cutting some crap to test the baler the haybine broke. Not fatally, but bad enough to take a day or two I don't have to tear it apart and fix. The hay's so thick using the sickle bar would be an exercise in frustration but we got lucky and a cousin had a haybine he wasn't having much luck selling that he's letting us use.


On a positive note the baler makes a nice tight bale. The crap I was baling was half green and wet full of 2 years of thatch, briars, sapling etc. but the bale had a nice tight core, good shape and if wrapped would have been a good looking bale.

Well have some good news and some bad news.

The good news is the pump was bad. My brother replaced the pump and belt today and got 4-5 nice bales made and wrapped.

The bad news is while making the next bale one of he arms which hold the pickup teeth decided to come loose. Without taking anything apart, it looks like one of the pins that hold the arm is missing, the belt is broken, and about 1/2 the teeth and 1 stripper are bent. Won't know the rest of the carnage until I can take it apart tomorrow. There goes fixing the haybine.

I'm glad you got the twine arms working. Sorry to hear about the loose tooth angle iron.
Jim

(quoted from post at 03:59:15 05/25/14)
I'm glad you got the twine arms working. Sorry to hear about the loose tooth angle iron.
Jim

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After tearing the pickup apart.

Left hand bearing for the pickup cylinder was non existent and hadn't been there for a good while. Two of the angles the teeth mount to were bent beyond hope and the other two were bent. Most of the teeth were bent and one stripper was bent.

While I've got it torn down I'm going ahead and replacing all of the angles and teeth. And all 36 of those fn carriage bolts that hold one end of the strippers are getting replaced with stainless hex bolts. Took longer to remove them than to tear apart everything else.

Got half the baling done before weather and a out of town commitment interfered.

After a couple final adjustments to the switches so the monitor worked properly things went pretty much without a hitch. Only problem is had the net wrap the pickup roller instead of the bale a couple times. What a PITA unrolling a bale to rebale it.

Made a nice shaped bale that was good and tight.

Do you use your tractors front tire to unroll the bale? I can unroll one down to where the core is about 12" tall,then let pickup teeth of baler finish unrolling with tractor engine @ 1000-1100 rpm Years ago I showed the "using tractor to unroll a bale" to a JD Ottumwa factory baler engineer and he was in disbelief. He stated frt tractor tire sure beat unrolling by hand.

This is the first baler we've owned. We only bale about 20 acres and use about 80-100 5' bales a year. In the past we've gotten a neighbor to bale ours when he was baling across the street. It had gotten rough coordinating my work schedule, weather and when he was available. Plus this year he changed to planting 90% of the property in corn and beans and wouldn't be baling any hay there until July.

Big difference between forking out 700 for baling and 22000 for tractor and baler but it sure felt good not having to rely on someone else.

Our small tractor had the forks on the loader and I picked it up, carried it to the top of a hill in the field, and unrolled it with them.

If the baler has set for while you may have to put air pressure in the twine pump to force out the air in the pump lines

(quoted from post at 19:02:33 07/07/14) If the baler has set for while you may have to put air pressure in the twine pump to force out the air in the pump lines

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Pump was dead. Baler now working.

I'm glad you got it baling.