Bought a baler at the auction. The guy said they were using it but it would shear the bolt on the flywheel when you disengaged the pto. I have greased it up and run it empty. the plunger is tight when it is all the way into the chamber. Makes some screeching noise coming back. I oiled the slides onthe bottoms and sides. What eles can I do to get it moving more free.

2X what Rod says. I had a 336 that despite the PO telling me that he always shedded it had bad rust. The rust in the bottom of the chamber pushes up the rails that that the plunger head rides on. Yo will need to remove the plunger head, which is not a big deal except for the rust, so you may need to chain it to a tree and the pull the baler ahead. I cleaned mine good then painted with rust inhibiting primer. Two years ago someone came on here with that problem and tried different things for three weeks to get the rails out without removing the plunger and then finally gave in and did it. While you are at it clean and paint under the knottters and put new springs in the hay dogs.

Pull the plunger out, then remove ALL of the guides from the chamber. Beat/scrape/chisel/sandblast the rust/corrosion out from where the guides sit.... paint if you're ambitious... then reinstall the guides. Not a bad idea to renew the bearings on the plunger while it's out... then reinstall and adjust to spec in the op's manual.
It's a pretty common thing on Deere balers to get a tight plunger towards the end of the stroke when the chamber gets corroded.

As far as breaking shearbolts when it stops.... there ought to be an ORC somewhere in the baler driveline to allow it to freewheel when you stop the PTO...

Rod

You are exactly right. After a closer inspection there is a lot of rust and corrosion underneath that outside rail at the very end. Not sure this baler is worth that much repair. Thanks for your help.

Any green baler you buy will need that kind of repair at some point. It's a days labor more or less along with some thought... Not really hard work and not necessarly expensive work depending on what you want to change out and how worn it is. Given it's bound up it's probably not worn too bad.

Rod

Ohhh you mean doing something like this? strip out all guide plates, bead blast, grind down, beat with ballpeen rust built up between metal layers, pick out, new guides, adjuster plate, primed and painted, all new hardware. Then after plunger bearings and excessively worn plates are replaced it can be adjusted for guide clearances, and knife clearances? Also don't forget the pitman arm bushings and pin and shimming it to specs for for side play.

Its the outside rail that raised up. After I get that rail out and grind down the bubbled up case metal do I need to do any reinforcing. Or just put the rail back down. There is an outside brace about where this is bad. I am wondering if that has not held water and bulged out to the inside when it froze over the winter.

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2X what Rod days. It is real heavy scale. You will need to do very little grinding because the rust comes off easily in big chunks. I use a welders scaling hammer for that. It has a point on one side that will easily break the rust off. Mine was not rusted through. It is amazing how thick rust can get from the oxidizing of a small amount of steel

If the rail looks decent you can reuse it. I found on my 327 that I had to take a sharp heavy bar and beat on the rust boils to break them off. Once they're clean you can see what you're dealing with... I think there was a joint in the metal there on mine and I had to grind that down some to get the rail laying flat but it's not a big deal. Even if there was a small hole there I wouldn't worry too much about it. Get the rail flat. The hole can be filled with brass or something like JBweld.

Rod

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No brgs on 24T PH just wear pads

Best thing to do is get a book but for starters are the rails adjusted right? The plunger may be binding going one way or another when it cycles and when the pto is shut off it may be enough to shear the bolt with no power going to it.

If it sheared the FW bolt on shutdown I would check over-running clutch to see if it's operable. On the tightness/screeching I would continue running for a while slowly under no load.