530 baler clutch problem and I don't know where to start

kennyb

New User
Hello All,

i have a 5030 baler that the clutch went. I do not know much about this baler and I see posts that talk about clutch discs and ones that talk about the over-running-clutch and some that mention the hub. How do I know which is bad? The ORC is on assembly is is not? Is that the same as the hub that some people mention? What are the symptoms of just clutch plates going bad as compared to the ORC assembly? Sorry for all of the questions, but I look forward to reading your responses. Thank you.
 
It would help us to know what brand and type of baler you are talking about. Your title says 530 and the text shows 5030. I am guessing a 530. Now there are JD round balers with that number and Ford square balers with that model number.

Give us a little more info. Then we can help you much easier. My crystal ball is on the blink this morning. LMAO
 
Better yet, take a picture of the flywheel/ clutch area and post it. Prhaps we can see something, or t least then point to the different areas.

Think you've mentioned this before here. I'd love to help you, but would need to be there in person.

You don't know enough about it for a general explination to help you, and we don't know enough about it from your simple explination to really help you out over long distance.

What make & model do you have, what is the symptoms you have - does it spin the baler up to speed at all, what parts spin and what parts don't, etc?

With a pic.

Love to help you, but just don't have a starting place.

--->Paul
 
First off, as the others have said, you don't give enough info for anyone to help you. Second, how do you know the clutch went out on you. Did it happen all at once, if so you probably sheared a shearpin on the flywheel if it's a square baler. Is the clutch slipping or is the PTO running without anything else happening? These guys on here will give you some of the best help you can imagine, but you've gotta give them something to work on. Just my thoughts, Keith
 
If you're dealing with a Ford 530 square baler....
Look at the hub when you have the PTO engaged. If you see only the shaft turning and NOT the outer portions of the slip clutch hub that has the tension bolts... then it's a fair bet that the ORC is bad. If that hub/pressure plate IS turning then the ORC is probably OK and the slip clutch is slipping. In that case you can either try to tighten the pressure plate bolts or mabey just replace the slip clutch discs (two).
If all of that AND the flywheel turns but the baler won't turn then you likely have bad discs on the second set of slip clutch discs in behind the flywheel. Those are also available and not too bad to change as long as you can get the flywheel off.

If the ORC is bad... what I did to mine rather than pay 400 plus dollars for the ORC... I simply cut a circle from 1/4" plate of an appropriate size that it's OD matches the OD of the ORC hub and the ID matches OD of the shaft yolk going into the ORC. Then cut the plate in half. Peel the PTO shaft guard back out of the way so it doesn't get hot.... then fit the two pieces of plate back together between the ORC and yolk... then weld them on to both the ORC and the yolk. The ORC hub is cast iron... so you need to warm that up pretty good with the torch first... then weld with a nickle rod such as the SOdel 35 which will join cast and mild steel. Alternatively, you can braze this mess together.
That will eliminate the ORC/problem. You can then probably add an ORC into the front yolk on the shaft where it attaches to the tractor as is common on today's equipment... or go without one at all. It's not really a big deal if your tractor's PTO can freewheel when disengaged.

Rod
 
Hello again. I am quite new to this forum stuff and I apologize that I didn't take greater care in reviewing my post before submitting it. It is an old Ford 530 baler. I just got it last year and baled approx. 80 bales and I heard a "snapping" noise and the pto shaft was turning, but not the baler (plunger, feed forks, and pickup),. I haven't looked at it in a while so I don't recall if the flywheel was turning or just the shaft. I will hook it up again this weekend and see. I thank you for your replies and I am sorry for the confusion of my first post. Thank you RodinNS for your reply. It gives me a lot to go on. Where is NS, if it's okay to ask that? I am from Nova Scotia and was wondering if that is what the NS means.

Again, thank you for the replies and i am sorry for the bad post.
 
Hello RodinNS,

Thank you for the reply. I did mean a 530. I bought it last season and only put approx 100 bales through it and the clutch went. When the baler was working it worked quite well, it tied well and had good shaped bales. Anyway, thanks for the reply. Is there any other tips you could give me about this baler? I think I will weld the clutch. There is some rust in the upper front of the bale chamber that is pushing down the plunger guide rail and causing friction/heat. I don"t know if I can remove the plunger itself or not. I tried and it seemed to be rather difficult. I put it back and may have to try again some time. I am a little nervous of fire with the heat that is there. Should removing the plunger in an old baler like this be a problem? Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 12:04:11 05/30/12) Hello again. I am quite new to this forum stuff and I apologize that I didn't take greater care in reviewing my post before submitting it. It is an old Ford 530 baler. I just got it last year and baled approx. 80 bales and I heard a "snapping" noise and the pto shaft was turning, but not the baler (plunger, feed forks, and pickup),. I haven't looked at it in a while so I don't recall if the flywheel was turning or just the shaft. I will hook it up again this weekend and see. I thank you for your replies and I am sorry for the confusion of my first post. Thank you RodinNS for your reply. It gives me a lot to go on. Where is NS, if it's okay to ask that? I am from Nova Scotia and was wondering if that is what the NS means.

Again, thank you for the replies and i am sorry for the bad post.

Kenny, Rod is on classic view so he will not see this. You need to start a new thread. The snap that you heard could also be the shear bolt which should be right behind the flywheel. So far as the friction heat, what you probably have is expanded rust under the plates that your plunger rides on. You will need to pull the plunger out and then the pates or channels, that the plunger rides on. Then beat the rust out, treat it with acid wash to neutralize remaining immovable rust, then paint with rustoleum. Then put rails back. removing the plunger will not be easy due to the decreased clearance due to the expanded rust. you will need a heavy chain and come-a-long or pull the baler with plunger anchored to a tree or something strong.
 
(quoted from post at 13:50:33 06/25/12)
(quoted from post at 12:04:11 05/30/12) Hello again. I am quite new to this forum stuff and I apologize that I didn't take greater care in reviewing my post before submitting it. It is an old Ford 530 baler. I just got it last year and baled approx. 80 bales and I heard a "snapping" noise and the pto shaft was turning, but not the baler (plunger, feed forks, and pickup),. I haven't looked at it in a while so I don't recall if the flywheel was turning or just the shaft. I will hook it up again this weekend and see. I thank you for your replies and I am sorry for the confusion of my first post. Thank you RodinNS for your reply. It gives me a lot to go on. Where is NS, if it's okay to ask that? I am from Nova Scotia and was wondering if that is what the NS means.

Again, thank you for the replies and i am sorry for the bad post.

Kenny, Rod is on classic view so he will not see this. You need to start a new thread. The snap that you heard could also be the shear bolt which should be right behind the flywheel. So far as the friction heat, what you probably have is expanded rust under the plates that your plunger rides on. You will need to pull the plunger out and then the pates or channels, that the plunger rides on. Then beat the rust out, treat it with acid wash to neutralize remaining immovable rust, then paint with rustoleum. Then put rails back. removing the plunger will not be easy due to the decreased clearance due to the expanded rust. you will need a heavy chain and come-a-long or pull the baler with plunger anchored to a tree or something strong.



Thanks for that, but what is "classic view"?
 
(quoted from post at 11:31:22 06/25/12)
(quoted from post at 13:50:33 06/25/12)
(quoted from post at 12:04:11 05/30/12) Hello again. I am quite new to this forum stuff and I apologize that I didn't take greater care in reviewing my post before submitting it. It is an old Ford 530 baler. I just got it last year and baled approx. 80 bales and I heard a "snapping" noise and the pto shaft was turning, but not the baler (plunger, feed forks, and pickup),. I haven't looked at it in a while so I don't recall if the flywheel was turning or just the shaft. I will hook it up again this weekend and see. I thank you for your replies and I am sorry for the confusion of my first post. Thank you RodinNS for your reply. It gives me a lot to go on. Where is NS, if it's okay to ask that? I am from Nova Scotia and was wondering if that is what the NS means.

Again, thank you for the replies and i am sorry for the bad post.

Kenny, Rod is on classic view so he will not see this. You need to start a new thread. The snap that you heard could also be the shear bolt which should be right behind the flywheel. So far as the friction heat, what you probably have is expanded rust under the plates that your plunger rides on. You will need to pull the plunger out and then the pates or channels, that the plunger rides on. Then beat the rust out, treat it with acid wash to neutralize remaining immovable rust, then paint with rustoleum. Then put rails back. removing the plunger will not be easy due to the decreased clearance due to the expanded rust. you will need a heavy chain and come-a-long or pull the baler with plunger anchored to a tree or something strong.

If you go over to the left and hit discussion forums it will open in classic. One of the biggest differences is that in modern every post to a thread brings the thread back to the top whereas in classic it just keeps getting older and goes to second page then third where no one sees it.

Thanks for that, but what is "classic view"?
 

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