Fence post pounder

blunosr

Member
Hi, I know, it's not really an implement, but it is a tool... and I have an idea for a similar implement for my tractor...

I had a piece of 6.5" ID pipe and some half inch plate, so I thought I'd make one of those post pounders. I've never used one before. How heavy are they supposed to be? I think this one is about 40 pounds. Maybe I went overboard and used to big a pipe?

I figured it should be able to fit over a 5" post?

DSCF0489.jpg


I also started an attachment for my FEL that'll have a spike similar to a bale spear, 2 and 3/8" O.D. My plan is to be able to push it into the ground about 2 feet, then wiggle it around and plant a post in the hole, I'll also have a cup so I can push the post into the hole better.

Have any of you guys made anything like this? Any advice? Photos?

Thanks,

Troy
 

I don't think I'd want to handle a 40lb post pounder...a 15 lb maul for several hundred post is bad enough :)

As far as the loader spike thing, you might just end up bending it trying force it in the ground and wiggling.

I think the main limiting factor for most fences here is getting the tractor to the actual post, newer fence in open field should be fine. Many older fences were line fences and in rocky tree type areas. I've pounded/pushed posts with FEL bucket, and usually if the ground is soft enough to that, it's also soft enough to rut up your pasture with the tires.

We fence in a couple 35 acre pastures each year, not 4 sided squares either and the "better mousetrap" hasn't come along yet for me.
 

I would find and look at one of the Front-Mounted Fence post drivers and pattern after that..
They were (are?) made many years ago..I have seen them on an IH "H" or "M"..
I'll tell you..those Driven posts are the Tightest posts you will ever find..Hogs wont loosen them..
You must have a monumental set of Shoulders (and Back),to want to set posts with a 40 lb Driver...!!!

Ron..
 

Wouldn't it be great, if someone made one Patterned after the "Pile-Drivers" used to drive Steel Pilings (the Diesel Powered ones..
I used to love to see them driving Pilings, on our job-sites..SO Simple and SO effective..!!
A simple single-cylinder Diesel that just JUMPS UP and Falls, Fires and repeats...!!!!
It Could be done...
Ron..
 
40# will drive a tee post in 1 or 2 licks...never tried to drive wood posts in this semi concrete.
personally i'da used something besides rebar for handles...thats gonna eat thru your gloves and start on skin pretty quick.
 
blunosr, Having been on the Business end of waaaaayyyyyy too many post drivers.....
I will suggest and advise you, that your choice in Re-bar as handle material is a Bad Idea! You really need smooth rod stock, not Re-bar!!!! The Re-bar will tear up your hands even through heavy leather gloves.
Perhaps the 6 in pipe is over kill, It just depends on how much you intend to use it!
Here were I live we have hard rocky, and layer stone areas so the machine of choice is a air-compressor and a pneumatic driver rented from most any rent all joint. on a daily basis!
I built a post driver in high school FFA using 3" pipe and a piece of 3" in tractor axle welded in it.
Not trying to rain on your parade here but it may be a tad over kill, but when you get older you will opt for a more compact unit,,that unit will kill a man after 2 hrs of pounding T-post,,, too give-out to lift it off the post.
Here we have lots of places where I have personally driven 2" pipe with a air driven unit for 15 to 20 minutes to get it to the desired depth needed. Anyway hope this helps.
Later,
John A.
 
If your tall be careful your driver don't slip off the post on the up stroke. Then like me you pull with all your force to drive a post and you drive your own head into the ground. Lots of blood and had a good lump for 6 months. And i'm telling ya i have not been right since. I had a extra long driver made and have not had any problems since.
 
Have had a Shaver post driver for probably 40 years. Am out of the cattle business and haven't used it in years. Never tried, but it would have driven a cross tie...........in our soils. If I had many posts to drive by hand, I'd get an air-operated unit.
drive here
 
Way-Way over done. You could not pound a wood post here and that will not work on steel T post as it will cock to side and Jamb, you only want 1/2" bigger diameter than the post. And as others have said you would have no hands left with that rebar. Throw it in the junk and rethink things. And my post pounders never were made with handles, just grip the pipe and raise and drop with out hands on, too much shock to arms to hold to. I tried one with handles and no way would I try that again.
 
I have one that I use on steel "T" posts, but that's about it. Trying to hand drive a round fence post is not something that I want to do. I use augers on the 3-point, which is not as good as driving them I'm sure. I saw something from the University of Georgia some years back about putting up fences, and they used a hydraulic driver off of the 3-point. I tried to find it on the internet, but did not. I did however find such a unit, which is far more expensive than my using augers, which work fine too. My smallest auger, 6", mid 9", largest 12", and by the time they get spinning, the holes average about 3" bigger than the auger. No argument from me that driven fence posts are the way to go. No argument from me, but my hands, arms, shoulders will only take so much, and so will my wallet.

Best of luck.

Mark
Wish I could afford one of these instead, but cant.
 
Hand operated post pounders are intended only for steel "T" posts- certainly not for driving a wood post, unless you are a gorilla. I made mine out of 2 inch ID steel pipe, about 3 feet long, with a 2 inch solid shaft welded into it about 6 inches, shaft is maybe 15 inches long? Provides enough integral weight. Smooth half inch stock on each side for handles. Much simpler to drive "T" posts into place with a helper and a power down loader tractor. I hate fencing...always have...was always on rainy days, slogging through swamps, slapping the State Bird of MN...mosquitos!
 
I"m building one similar to what you have except the pipe is 6 inch ID. Yeah it"s heavy and I will use it on a 5+ inch wooden post because I have to drive some posts in an area that i can"t get mt post driver into and I need to use a wooden post.
I"ll have to have a double ration of Tiger SH** before I drive the posts and probably take a few days off after I do it. Do they still make trusses for hernias?(Grin)
 

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