john deere 535 round baler belts slipping

I have a 1991 jd 535 baler and the belts are slipping. could anybody help me with this. we had a jd service guy here and he cheaked barings nd looked baler over and told us to shorten belts which are now 10" shorter that the min in book. I also put some 3m traction tape on drive rollers. It worked for about 50 bales and now we have the same problem and im thinking it might be a hydrolic problem. Has anybody had this problem before, and could anybody please help me out? Thanks
 
There should be rubber sections on the drive rolls. If that is missing, you need new drive rolls. You proved you have a drive problem by using the tape. There is more than one drive roll.
 

IMHO the minimum belt length is in the operator manual for a reason. I wouldn't want to run a rd baler with the belts 10"s shorter than the minimum for fear of breaking belts while baling.

There is a tension roller at top/frt that raises & lowers when tail gate is opened/closed that one can see from tractor seat. Is this tension roller returning to the stops on each side when T-gate is closed? Are the tension cylinders on each side inside the side doors retracting all the way when T-gate is closed? It is possible for tension cyl's or valve under cover that runs crossways in frt of baler to have internal leakage. What PSI is the gauge showing after a hay core is started?
 
If you do have rubber on the drive roller, you need to treat that roller with spray on silicone. It will condition the rubber to give more traction on your belts.
Spray Silicone
 
tension bar cylinder do not pull in all the way they are about 1" out from crome shift, but there are some stops on top of baler that seem to hold it from coming down further. Also i am baling mostly ditches and there are big and small windrows mixed together so the bale dinseny warries, and every time i get a bale close to the red zone on gage the baler starts to react with this problem with belts starting to slip but once i get a bale started and while forming a bale there is apsolutly no problem. the last time i bailed this season on the last three bales it acted up with the belts slipping but when i got some hey into the baler it started to turn again and i could form another bale. Its weard because 1 month later i cleaned the bailer for storage and tried it out and the belts would turn without a problem, so i opened and closed it five times, it worked 100% thats what confuses me.
 

If you start a bale what size will the core be when gauge gets to set pressure? You stated belts were 10' shorter than factory spec's. Have you pulled all of them out and measured them?
 
not sure I would say around 4' and I only make 5'x 5' bales. should the density gage read the same with big windrows and smaller ones? yes i have had them out twice already. when we got baler 3 years ago the belts were loose and slipping. I did tests on hydrolics the best I could without the john deere presure gages or whatever they use, and I even replaced the none ajustable relief valve and, check valves and nothing solved the problem until I shortened the belts 5". It worked for one season (i make around 100 bales a year) and than it acted up again and thats when the john deere service guy came out to look over the baler and found nothing, so he told us to shorten belts some more which we did. Right now the long belts are 518" and short ones are 512". minium in book is 528 long and 522 short. He also dident have any presure tools along, he just did the tests in owners manual which I already had done.
 

Are you 100% positive that the belts are threaded through baler rollers correctly???? This sounds very similar to a neighbor of mine that asked me if I would look at his baler because the belts wouldn't rotate when gate was closed after he had replaced a broken roller. I looked inside of baler with tailgate up(gate locked) and told him he had installed the roller incorrectly. He told me no way as he'd installed according to a photo he took of it before removal. He retrieved the photo and sure enough the roller was installed incorrectly(belts threaded wrong).

Baler gauge should move to preset psi long before bale reaches 4 ft.
 
yes im sure belts are routed correctly, they are just like the manual tell me and the JD service guy also checked them. When should gage move to preset psi? Like i said im not sure, it could be closer to 3'. wish I could go bale some hay to tell you for sure. Is it possable for the density box itself to have a internal leak, because sometime baler works just fine and at times it acts up.
 
based on baleing 1000 bales a year with a 435 jd baler when i have had this problem it was in the hydraulics on the tractor or baler . bypass on the tractor valve or valve on the baler or cylinders on the baler keeeping the gate shut.There is no way i would operate the baler with the belts that far out of tolrance.
 
(quoted from post at 17:51:22 11/23/11) Is it possable for the density box itself to have a internal leak, because sometime baler works just fine and at times it acts up.

Yes the density valve under the long cover in frt can cause problems. Usually it the adjustable valve plugs with debris or fails or a blown o-ring inside the valve. The tension cylinders have been known for some internal leaks also. My experience for any of the above the symptoms don't come & go. Have you tried baling with a different tractor? I was thinking the density gauge moved to the pre-set psi at about 2' core diam.
 
No I have not tried baling with a different tractor, and the tractor I am running this baler with is a JD 8110. I cleaned the adjustable valve with solovent and compress air already, and one JD service person I talked to about cylinders told me to warm the tractor oil and run the hydrolics on contunious flow (gate closed) for five minites to see if one cylinder gets hotter than the other and both of them were cool. Thanks everyone for your input so far, and once I have solved this problem I will look into the belts, but the bales I am making are only 5' so belts should not be the problem for now.
 

I don't know if this applies to your JD 8100 but a friend of mine bought a new JD 6715 and the new hay cutter kept leaking off. He contacted the selling dealer and they stated that he needed to purchase premium SCV's with a check valve built in them rather than the cheaper regular SCV's. The lengths tractor manufacturers go to just to be competitive in price with another brand(color) just amazes me having sold new JD equip. before I was reincarnated as an "old man".
 
Is the pressure gauge reading pressure all of the time? When you shut the gate the tractor SCV should put the gauge at the 9-10 O'Clock position. Then just setting there it should stay there. If it leaks off then you have a hydraulic problem. It can be the valve on the baler but you have cleaned that. It also can be the gate cylinders leaking internally. Your tractor can be leaking off too. The SCVs on the JD 8000s are bad at the poppet valves allowing small leakages at the SCV couplers.
 
Thanks again, I conected baler to our JD 8110 and JD 5420 tractors and on both when I closed the gate and let go of scv lever, the gage read at 10 0clock and after 5 minutes it was reading at 9 oclock. should I keep tractor valve in float position while baling?
 
(quoted from post at 02:42:15 11/25/11) should I keep tractor valve in float position while baling?

Tractor control valve should be in "neutral" not float position. I think leaking from 10 o'clock to 9 o'clock in 5 minutes wouldn't hurt because on my 467 in normal hay I can bale a bale in 2 minutes. Too bad you don't have any hay to bale because I'd like to know how big the core gets before gauge reaches the pressure set by you.
 
What could you find out with knowing what size the core is when gage reads as set? Also so far what do u think my problem/problems could be with this baler?
 

The sooner baler hyd gauge moves to the pre-set psi setting when starting a bale the more indication that ALL the hyd components are holding as they should. I was searching for answers because try to diagnose malfunctions over the internet can be difficult.
 
ok, thanks for all your help. I might end up taking baler to dealer and tell them to check all of the hydrolic components on baler. Thanks again for all the answers.
 
If it were my baler I invest in a tech manual rather than pay a dealer $75-$90 per hr to look at it. I know the 430 TM had hyd malfunctions diagnostics so I presume later model TM's did also.

Technical Manual CD-ROM TM1472CD 335, 375, 385, 435 & 535 Round Baler & Surface Wrap System Attachment Baler
 
ok, I just bought one of those cds and will see what I can find out. hope fully I can fix this problem. Thanks so much for your help
 

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