2 Bottom Plow Not Digging In

MYTFARMS

Member
Howdy. As some may have seen over on the AC boards, I've got a little D14 with a snap coupler 2 bottom plow. I've been working on getting it to dig in a little better, and I thought I finally had it today. I adjusted both cranks on the plow and set the coulters a little deeper. It did pretty well except my larger moldboard that's the close up of the furrow just doesn't get dug in and throw sod. It isn't the ground. It's soft down eight inches and more, but the plow has been slowly getting worse about getting dug down like it should. The first moldboard still digs in pretty decent, but the second one is down to skidding along on top of the sod. :?: :? Any ideas what I need to do? My coulters are sharp and cutting the sod perfect. I just need to work on getting this thing adjusted because we're planting some spring grains in early April.
Thanks,
MYT
 
perhaps your lift arms is not level to the ground.. on most tractors there is a crank that you can lower or raise the lift arms.. just a thought
 
Most common problem I see on the old AC snap couplers, other than worn out shares, is connecting the lift links wrong at one or both upper lift links. The links can be rotated on the shaft, and pivoted around the bolt, that attaches the lift link. From the factory, they came with a cross chain, which would give you a clue, if you had something wrong. Few still have those chains.
As far as plow adjusting goes, here is the abbreviated version: Drive your left wheel up on a 6x6 or 8x8 long enough to support the tire. Slowly lower the plow, with the motor off. Set the share to as close to level, from left to right, by adjusting the adjustable lift link(s). Next, adjust the winging crank on the top of the plow, so that both plows are level, or tipped slightly forward. If it won't plow, you need new shares. Post a few pics, or go look on the photo gallery, there might be some pics of a mounted 2 bottom plow, there.
 
Alright, I'll give that a shot tomorrow and get some pictures up if I still have problems. The shares are in pretty good shape, so I figure I just have a some adjusting left to do. Thanks.
 
do you have sharpe points on the plow, I had a D-14 with 2-14's and they plowed great, I also had a set of 2 disc plows with the tractor and they also plowed great.

You must have the plow level, take a level with you to the field,
Once you have the plows in the ground stop and check level of the plow, front to back and side to side with your right tire in the furrow.

you have adjustments on each lift arm connecting rod and a adjustment screw for tilting the front of the plow up and down.

All these adjustment screws must be in good working order. Many of these old plows were stored outside and these adjusting screws were rusted solid.

good luck and be sure the carter keys are in the pin that holds the connecting hook under the tractor. If this pin comes loose, your plow will nose dive into the ground and the back of the plow can come up and over on you,

I enjoyed using the old AC D-14, it worked great.
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A D14 with a Snap-Coupler plow would not have the pin hitch that you describe. By your picture, I see that you do not have the lift arm in the right position, like another poster describes. The casting holding the yoke should be upside-down, compared to your picture. ie, the pivot pin of the yoke should be below the cross arm of the plow, thus shortening the entire hookup.
 
I looked for a picture of the correct set up, in the galleries, couldn't find it. This picture is a pretty good example of what not to do. Plow looks like a WD model, maybe with the hidden pin hitch, and definitely with the old style lift arm attachments. This is the headache trap to avoid. The bottom of the lift arm, as you said, is backwards to what it should be, and why is that chain, in the middle? because the links are backwards! I saw a listing , for a D-10 allis, on fleabay, last night, it had a 2 bottom plow, with it, last in the series of pictures, not attached, it shows the correct cross chain configuration. It also has a welded tongue, which reminds me of another thing about AC plows, WD, and D series plows have a different length tongue, if I remember it right, the D series tongues are about 6"longer. If I can find the fleabay listing, I will post it in a separate reply.
 
JMS,

That is not my plow, I just found the picture on the internet and copied it to show the front to rear tilt screw,

You are right the plow does not look like it ready to go to field, only used it to show the adjustment points.
Guess i should have found a better example.

When they are set up right they do plow great.
 
Ok, here's the old gal in the barn. Got the lid off because I was searching for the serial last night. The blocks figure to just over 6 inches in height. The plow is fully lowered and the back moldboard is just hanging about 2 inches off the ground. Keep in mind I haven't been farming long, and most of what I learn has been trial and error or what I get from a shop manual.

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I never had a 2 bottom AC mounted plow, but am familiar with the type..
1st, it does appear that your rear wheels are set too wide for a 2 bottom plow..
2nd, if the rear bottom is not going in deep enough, it is usually because you need to adjust the center screw adjustment (Beaming screw).
It can be deceptive, which way to adjust that beaming adjustment..
If both shares look as good as the front one, they are fine..
LENGTHEN the Center crank adjustment, to allow the rear bottom to go deeper..
If it refuses to go in very deep, look at the furrow bottom for a mark left by the "HEEL" on the landslide..
If there is a mark on the furrow bottom and the rear bottom is not going in deep enough, you need to raise the Heel, to let the bottom run deeper..

Not sure why the lift-links are angled so much from the tractor to the plow, BUT..it would be a Very good idea to change over to the Release Latches on the lift arms..a definite SAFETY--Issue..
Ron..
 

Looking at the pictures again, your plow is mounted quite far from the rear of the tractor..farther than normal..

Does the lower hitch look original on the plow..??

Ron.
 
I may have a hunch what's going on, here, can you get a close-up picture of the drawbar(lower link), and how it attaches to the front of the plow? That plow is one of the hidden pin hitch type, from a Wd, or maybe even a Wc(?). It definitely pre- dates the snap coupler system. The picture that I want, is the view from above, with your knees in the seat, looking down at the front of the plow, and underneath the PTO shaft, kinda almost looking forward.
 
I'll see what I can do. I do know we busted the draw bar once upon a time and welded that back up. This plow was one Dad picked up at the junkyard so I haven't the smallest idea of what's going on. I'll snap a few more photos.
 
Again, I can't tell you all how much I appreciate this. I fixed up on my truck basically from the manual and folks giving me a hand through the internet and over the phone. You all are a live saver. Here's the shots. I rotated a couple, but I think you can tell which one I took upside down.

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MY,
I did not realize the hitch on your plow did not have the loop that connected to the hook under the tractor.

here is a better picture showing the hitch of the plows like I had,

I believe you are going to have to buy another plow for your tractor or a different hitch.

The plow you have could be dangerous.
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Huh. Well I suppose thats the epitome of farming. Machinery that doesn't work right. Dad's not a fan of fixing up the old stuff, and when we do, it has to be enough to get the job done, not necessarily correct. Well, does this plow even have an actual AC application or do I need to send it back where it cam from?
 
I am not 100% sure, but I think your drawbar, being made for a WD hidden pin hitch, is way too long. disconnect the drawbar from the plow drawbar, and back up till you see the lift links straight up and down, vertical. You might have to lift or lower, a little as you back up, to allow the plow drawbar to clear below the bell of the snap coupler. this will give you an idea of how much needs to be cut off. My guess is about a foot.
 
Thanks Dave. I'll get on adjusting the bar and the plow and then post an update. Hopefully we'll have it getting the job done at least for this spring planting.
 

The hitch your plow has is exactly like the one on my AC Subsoiler...that I have on my WD-45..
It looks as if your drawbar is one piece..right..??

The drawbar of a WD and WD-45 is two piece and can be put together Short, or Long..I bet it would solve your length problem..!

Maybe you should look for one.. that is, one from a Snap-Coupler WD-45..AND get the release latches from the rear lift-links, too...
Ron..
 

The hitch your plow has is exactly like the one on my AC Subsoiler...that I have on my WD-45..
It looks as if your drawbar is one piece..right..??

The drawbar of a WD and WD-45 is two piece and can be put together Short, or Long..I bet it would solve your length problem..!

Maybe you should look for one.. that is, one from a Snap-Coupler WD-45..AND get the release latches from the rear lift-links, too...
Ron..
 

If this drawbar is not original, why not shorten it to the proper length, along with shortening the front part of the existing plow mount (up front) and use it as a dedicated hitch on that plow..??

Then get an original drawbar for general use on the tractor..??

Would work for me...!!

Still looks like your rear wheels are set too far apart...!!
 
Ya, we're gonna work on this draw bar until we get it straightened out. In terms of the wheels, I'm getting the manual next week and can get them set a little closer is order to accommodate the plow. That will at least allow us to get some dirt turned this spring.
 

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